front steering removal

[net4home]

I'm trying to remove the steering arms that are on top of the front axle spindles.

I've seen videos that say to just pop them off with a hammer, but no matter what hammer I use mine don't move. The one on the right has been welded on but that's for another day my left one will not move. I've even tried a gear puller and bent it all to heck.

Hoping someone can give me some tips for removing this one.

Here is what mine look like.

Thanks
Kevin

 

[Nyquil Junkie]

Maybe take the bolt out?

 

[old]

If I remember right the bolt has to come off since it goes threw a cut out so the part you want to remove cannot be removed with the bolt it unless you break the bolt

 

[John Deere D]

Remove PIN/BOLT..

 

[Abbby]

Apply heat on the outside thinner portion of the steering arm. If you do not have access to a torch try a propane torch.

 

[net4home]

Thanks Abbby I don't have a torch, but I do have a propane torch to try.

Kevin

 

[net4home]

Thanks old ... I've been trying to remove the stud or bolt I put the nut back on before I tried to hammer out the bolt I have also tried a large tapered punch to get the bolt to go back through but I have been unsuccessful.

I wasn't sure if that bolt came out or not, but I thought it had something to do with applying pressure on the spindle top.

Thanks Kevin

 

[old]

If I remember I'll look at one of the 9n/2n/8n front ends I have tomorrow to see if I can see how it is done. Been to many years since I have had to mess with one

 

[Den N Ms]

net4home , That bolt should have a head on it opposite of the nut and you should be able to just knock it out.
Unless some one put like a king pin wedge bolt in it,but it should still knock out.With the nut screwed on kike you have smack it with a hammer and it will come out.

This post was edited by Den N Ms on 10/04/2022 at 09:03 pm.

 

[Den N Ms]

net4home , That bolt should have a head on it opposite of the nut and you should be able to just knock it out.
Unless some one put like a king pin wedge bolt in it,but it should still knock out.With the nut screwed on like you have smack it with a hammer and it will come out.

This post was edited by Den N Ms on 10/04/2022 at 09:02 pm.

 

[Mad Farmer]

Welding those must have been popular?

I got my 9N with those welded, and have been sure to grease the spindles, as they aren't coming apart without a grinder.....

 

[net4home]

Thank You

 

[net4home]

Yes, the grinder is for another day right now...but that's what I've been up against trying to repair my 9N.

-Kevin

 

[net4home]

Yes, there is no head to either bolt so I assume it came with a kingpin wedge bolt from the factory. I have been beating on the bolt to remove it but have had no success I've even tried a large tapered punch with no success. Later today I am going to try some heat to the side the bolt is on as Abbby suggested. Hope that will help get it off so I can fully repair it.

-Kevin

 

[old]

I just went out and looked at the front end on my 1950 8N and the part your trying to remove has an ordinary bolt in it and I bet if I wanted to remove that part it would take 2 wrenches to get the bolt out so you may have the wrong type of bolt in it

 

[net4home]

I have four different parts books and they all show this arm differently. The parts books published after 1942 show it as a bolt with two heads with a split arm, the other parts books published in 1942 and earlier show a locking pin and a solid arm. So somewhere after 1942, the split arm with a bolt and nut was used to replace the locking pin and solid arm used before the beginning of 1942.

They have upgraded the parts throughout the parts manual printing, which has been a real joy to try to decipher. I'll see if I can smack the daylights out of that pin to remove it.

I'll try to remember to post pictures of it when I've got it removed and maybe it can help someone else who might fight with this same issue.

-Kevin

 

[old]

I guess tomorrow if I get the chance I'll have to look at the 9N front axle I have and see if it is pre 42then

 

[lha]

Mine,on my '41 9n was welded. It has a wedge bolt on it,and with some grinding with a grinder and then a bit with the dremel,I whacked it with a drill hammer while jacking up on the axle. After a lot of beating,it came off and cleaned up pretty well. I guess some Farmer got tired of having to tighten it up after finding it loose. I had to do this to replace the spindle bushings.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 18:36:50 09/28/22) I have four different parts books and they all show this arm differently. The parts books published after 1942 show it as a bolt with two heads with a split arm, the other parts books published in 1942 and earlier show a locking pin and a solid arm. So somewhere after 1942, the split arm with a bolt and nut was used to replace the locking pin and solid arm used before the beginning of 1942.

They have upgraded the parts throughout the parts manual printing, which has been a real joy to try to decipher. I'll see if I can smack the daylights out of that pin to remove it.

I'll try to remember to post pictures of it when I've got it removed and maybe it can help someone else who might fight with this same issue.

-Kevin

There is no key in the spindle and the arm has probably turned a bit binding the pin. Those pins are hard to come by.

TOH

 

[Doug 13]

I'm not sure if you can get a pickel fork in there. That's what I used. then put anti sieze on during reinstall. Yes try seafoam penetrating oil, bolt out, heat, grinder (if needed), and patience.

 

[Jim in LA]

I have a video tape where Dan Gingell used a crowbar between the spindle arm and axle beam and whacked the spindle arm a couple times with shop hammer and it popped out. Be sure the nut is off the drag link. I used the same method last summer and it worked on the 2nd strike.

 

[net4home]

Even without being welded on it took a lot of beating to get it off.

Now that I can use the pin that I pulled out to compare with my other side it looks like they either pulled the pin almost all the way through and or put it in wrong. That's why they had to weld it. I'll know more when I've gone through the process of taking the other side off. If it helps someone else, I'll post some pictures of the differences here when I get it off.

-kevin

 

[net4home]

Yes, this is exactly what I have and I'll need to try to source one pin from someplace.

Would you know of a good place where I can pick me up one?

Thanks
Kevin

 

[net4home]

Yeah, I've tried it but mine must be made of cast because it's really soft and also is too narrow to fit the spindle top through the middle. I'm sure this would be much easier than beating the snot out of the bad spindle.

I'll have to locate a better pickle fork and give it a try.

Thanks
kevin

 

[net4home]

Jim thanks this is what I finally did and was able to remove the pin. Then the real fun began to remove the steering arm.

Too bad, it's not working for the other side, but maybe it will once I have the weld broken.

Thanks
Kevin