front wheel bolt

[duramax]

taking rim off to put on a new tire and snap there went 3 lug bolts if this place doesn't sell them where do i get them at? and second question how in the heck do i get them out of the spindle? i tried beating it it doesn't move it looks like on the back side is a carriage bolt with a 1/4 ground out so it didn't turn with a piece of metal welded on back. any suggestion where to get them and how do i get these 3 out i do not have a torch or i would have heaten them up or blew them out.

 

[trac]

NAPA sells lugs all sizes you need a (bfh) big hammer if you still can't get them off you might have to take the hub off but don't be scared to hit it

 

[ericlb]

like trac says any good parts store can help, take yours with you, the lug bolt and the nut, and they can match it up in the drawers back there, 2 ways to install, you can remove the hub and press them in, being carefull to fully support the hub so you dont break it or if you have a good air impact wrench get a extre nut and 3 or4 wshers and use the air wrench to pull them in in the tractor, watch the back side of the hub when the bolt meets the hub quit hammering it with the wrench after you run the tractor a few hours check the wheel nuts and retighten is nessessary

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 12:24:02 01/07/11) NAPA sells lugs all sizes you need a (bfh) big hammer if you still can't get them off you might have to take the hub off but don't be scared to hit it

I don't believe you will find an appropriate lug at an auto parts store. Ford part number is 78-1107 and available from nnalert's for $4 each. It is listed for 1948-53 tractors and I do not think that lug works with the early 11.25" hubs used on 9N/2N tractors. IIRC that lug is NLA

TOH

 

[duramax]

my rim is the 4.00 X 19 but the other question how do i get those old things out i sprayed it for a few days before i tried to break them loose i was maybe thinking of a point chisel on a air chisel maybe? i know you all been thru this before so i need the easy answer, thats not go buy a new hub dont have the money for that for the smart a@# ones in here lol

 

[HCooke]

If those lugs are not avail, I have a hub with good lug bolts. Email if interested.

 

[Fred Martin]

WARNING! When a foundry has a large chunk of cast iron to break up so they can throw it in the cupulo, they wait till it has frost on it (frozen) it will break lots easier...so if your gonna hammer on the hub hard, warm it up some...take the chill off of it. Remember, you're hammering on bearings if you do it in place. My advise is to take it off and lay it on a piece of hardwood with a hole to catch the bolt and a four pound hammer, grind bolt flush and a large punch should make you smile. ohfred

 

[Paul in MN]

D-

I just did this same job a few weeks ago on a client's late 8N. I did order the lugs and nuts from this site, they come in units of 5 or 6(?). But with the shipping the price went up to about $23 for a pkg of each. The shipping is what got to me. But the lugs were from the land of "never right", or maybe their trading neighbor "sometimes right". The back of the lug looks like the carriage bolt head with a knureled (sp?) shank, but it was full round, not ground to a flat to fit the hub casting. So you need to grind it yourself to make it fit. And then the new stud is significantly too long. Being as I had waited for delivery of the studs and nuts, I had reassembled the hub with new bearings and put it on the spindle and mounted the tire so I could move the tractor around in my shop. I figured that I could pull the new studs into place with the impact wrench if the lug nut was well oiled. WRONG! The studs need to be pushed in with a press with the hub off the tractor. The casting immediately around the stud needs to be well supported while pushing with the press. I usually use a well chosen impact socket as the support, so that it fully supports the casting around the stud. The casting is probably brittle, so I don't want to stress it too much.

To remove the broken studs, I have been previously successful with a 1/2" diam punch and a BFH, but not on this recent hub. I had to blow out the studs with an LP/Oxy cutting torch. Again to minimize the impact stress on the casting. If you don't have access to a torch, amybe you can find a tractor buddy who has one, and will help you.

Good Luck.

Paul in MN

 

[gahorN]

Warning:
1- If your hub is like the one on my 9N... the lug-bolts are NOT available at autoparts stores...you'll need to get them from a tractor dealer or this site. (Auto lugs have shanks too long and your lugnuts will never take up sufficiently to tighten the wheelrim to the hub without using washers. (bad)

2- The original lug bolts were held in place on the hub using LOCK-COLLARS....and if you beat on them or press them out with a hyd press you will likely crack-out the holes. Use heat to expand the hub and do it slowly and widely to avoid shattering the cast iron hub.

3- Order new lug nuts while your at it because ordinary automotive nuts will greately disappoint you when screwing them onto the correct bolts.

Hope this helps.

 

[duramax]

well good thing i ordered them yesterday when it happened but it looks like i will have my hands full and not what i need at this time, good thing putting on new tires and i wonder if i shouldn't replace bearings and seals so i don't have to pull this hub off again for a few more yrs. any ideas?

 

[Harry Wilken]

nnalert and Dennis Carpenter sites have the flat sided stud bolts. $4.00 ea. Carpenter site has a good pic of it on the order area.