G clutch again....

[coonie minnie]

So I have my G clutch apart again.

A refresher... it slowly developed a scenario where the clutch would either be too tight to stop the pulley, or too loose to pull any kind of load.

I've installed new facings, bolts, dogs, toggles. After reassembling, it seemed the driver casting was on too far. I replaced it with a different one. When really tight, it is approximately 1/4 inch proud of the crank shaft end. Too far??

But I've also noticed the following- when I have the pulley sitting upright on my bench, if I manually activate the actuating sleeve, it seems like I will only get perhaps 1/8 of an inch of movement of the bolts in and out. I'm thinking it should be more, and I'm wondering if my sleeve is worn enough in the holes for the toggles (dog bones) that there is too much lost motion? Also, the holes for the pins for the dogs are worn, and there is some slop there as well. Is it possible that all of that wear -a little here, a little there- has meant that I've lost a lot of engagement motion???

Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

[rustred]

you need to go through 2 adjustments. first the clutch disc's then you adjust the clutch brake last. get the clutch disc to snap in with about 40-50 lbs force. when it is pulled back that pully should turn by hand. last u go about adjusting the clutch brake to stop it from turning when the clutch is pulled back all the way. do you have a manual? i am giving info from my head long time since i replaced linings.

 

[coonie minnie]

I'm aware of all that... if I set the clutch up to the tightness of what is 'normal, it won't release enough to spin the pulley. If it is just tight enough to stay over center, it won't hold under any load, and the engine will labor some if the the clutch brake is applied.

 

[Mark-Ia]

What is your flywheel end play set at?

 

[coonie minnie]

It's pretty tight.

 

[RLA]

It is possible the driver is too far out on the crank, a 1/4 sound a bit much? As a test, I've gave the inside of the pulley
a light coat of spray paint to see if the clutch is only pulling one the outside facing only, if the paint wears off fast then the
driver distance on crank is ok. Very possble all the wear in all the places could be the issue but one would think a person
could adjust it out. Question? Is there much wear on the splines of the throw out yoke? Clutch operating adjsutment bolts &
plate should be moving more than 1/8. I have had to replace the vertical oprating shaft on more than one model A's because of lost
travel motion. Only thing I know I would do is create test shims to try in the holes of the operating sleeve to see if it makes
a difference. Can you tell if the dog bones are wore off/down a lot? I also know your knowledge on ole 2 cylinders is far grater than
mine, at the moment there is something we are missing.....

 

[RLA]

I see I forgot what you typed in the previuos post, I see the toggles & dog bones are new, has to be operating sleeve, Holes on the pivot point .s of the toggles or throw out yoke splines.

 

[coonie minnie]

My throw out yoke splines are good... I'm wondering if there are any specs on the sleeve or how much motion on the bolts there should actually be??

 

[coonie minnie]

Also, my toggles (dog bones) are new...

 

[MSD]

What year is your G? The early unstyled ones do not have the distinctive snap like the later ones do. Did you check the pin in the pulley itself? Also the hole that the pin goes into? We bore that hole out and put a bushing in on all of the ones we do. The bolt travel is about right as is the driver.

 

[coonie minnie]

I was going to review that next.

 

[coonie minnie]

and the G is a '49. Late style clutch.

 

[Mark-Ia]

end play at the flywheel should be .005-.010 for proper operation.

 

[RLA]

Would be nice to have another pulley to compare movement with. I've taken a penny & stuck into the holes of the operating sleeve
that I thought was wore out, then reinstalled the dog bones, once engaged the it crushed the pennys to a conical shape & all the
adjusting nuts on the T Bolts were a lot closer to the end of the bolt. My Clutch worked better & knew they wouldn't last but my
test worked & only cost me 3 penny's. Also found the 3 boss'sthat hold the toggles were worn some. I found another pully, then everything
worked.

 

[coonie minnie]

I like that idea.