Yes, spray Cooper Coat will be good. The only time I would be cautious about using CC on a head gasket is if it is a ..printed seal.. gasket as seen in the link. For those I would use a light spray of Permatex High tack if anything. I doubt your engine uses a printed seal gasket.
Printed seal gasket example
 
This is one of those questions, where if you ask 10 people with experience, you'll likely get 6 or 7 different answers.
I usually coat both sides with a really thin film of multi-purpose lithium grease. Why grease? Cause I already have it, and don't have to buy anything else. No globs, and no more than you can thinly smear on with your fingure. Unless some sort of instruction specifically specifies to install dry. I don't know why I do that. I guess the biggest reason is, I don't like the idea of putting it on dry. That, and I know the head gasket will smash to a certain extent when the head is torqued. The surfaces will be lubed for the squishing if a lubricant is applied. And won't be trying to squish against a dry surface. Might aid in gasket not sticking in future head removal. Don't sound like much of a reason, I know. But, right or wrong, that's what I do.
 
I overhauled a M gas a while back, took me 6 hrs to remove the cyl. head. Stuck tighter than ----
 
Grease on a head gasket was the way it was done by many years ago. I have done it in the past myself. You most likely will never know if it was greased when you pull the head off some time later. And , it was claimed to be both a sealer and a lube to allow the gasket to move as it was being compressed. Who decided that I have no idea.
 
Light coat of spray-on -K-W copper coat-.. Fill in the low spots; seal in compression, seal out coolant..
 
Done several head gaskets on cubs , As and Bs..... Copper coat on both sides of every one. Felpro gaskets. No issues.
 
Look at the gasket. I've done some that had printed right on it sealer and re-torque required.

I've always used copper coat on the metal side whether it said to or not.
Re-torque after first run is essential, don't forget to check valves after the re-torque.
 
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