Getting engine up to temp

[Dave in SV]

I can't recall ever seeing the temp guage on my '49A ever register anything over 180 degrees... and that was on a warm/hot summer day. During cool Fall jaunts, I'm lucky if it gets to 170 degrees. Of course, I don't know for sure that the gauge is accurate. I do not have shutters installed (yet).

1) What is the proper/best temp the engine should be operated at?

2) What is the best/easiest (I know, best and easy aren't usually the same!) way to test the gauge?

3) What are the consequences of NOT bringing the engine up to the proper temp before tooling down hilly country roads pulling a hayrack full of kids?

 

[almrm]

180 is fine for a gasoline A or all fuel running on gas. I target 180 to 190. The temp is good for the plugs and other carbon buildup. it is important to get it up to 180 quickly. A functional shutter assembly with a fan shroud will allow you to obtain any temperature you want on light or heavy work. With perfect OEM shutters and shroud I can warm my A up in the winter mosying around in the woods getting firewood.I can keep it at 190 on 3/14 plow all day. When I close the shutters I can clearly hear the fan starving for air. You can get functional shutters and a shroud for about $100 each if you shop for a while.

Mark

 

[Dave in SV]

Thanks for the info, Mark.

I have a nice used shutter and a new shroud... all I need now is ambition!

 

[garytomaszewski]

Dave,
1) Temperature control was really important when trying to burn tractor fuel, now not so much. Your 170 is not likely to do any harm.
2) Candy thermometer or such. If the guage is reading and the tractor isn't boiling over you are good to go.
3) You may foul the plugs when excessively idling (higher heat range plugs help when not working the tractor hard), you might need to change oil more frequently.
Remember that it has worked for 60 years without a thermostat or shutters and is still functioning, DON'T look for problems that aren't there.

 

[BushogPapa]

Cylinder wear is higher at less than 170 degrees..

Look at the worn cylinders of an inline 6 or inline 4 cylinder gasoline engine and I will guarantee that you will see that the front cylinder has worn toward the front (cooler coolant) from the water pump..!!
I am pretty sure JD recommended 190 as "Operating Temp"..which does require attention..sometimes I forget and see a little Steam...!!

Ron.

 

[Dave in SV]

Thanks for the answers! One of the great thoughts you brought up was about changing the oil more often... smart, something I hadn't considered until now!

 

[Dave in SV]

One thing I know... if I see steam from my tractor or from my wife, I need to PAY ATTENTION!

 

[BushogPapa]

Especially the WIFE...!!!

Actually, I have an anti-freeze mix of at least -50 and have never boiled any water...probably would about peg the gage before it would boil...!!

Let's see...I know we re-used the antifreeze when it was rebuilt in 1960...I just add anti-corrosion additives each year..maybe drain a pint or so out to remove some contaminants every couple of years..
Never seen "Good" antifreeze wear out..

Ron.

 

[Dave in SV]

So... what troubles do I have to look foreward to by having NOT added any anti-corrosion stuff? Is it ever too late to add it? Or should I drain all antifreeze and start over?

 

[Paul Hearsey]

My main concern is the motor oil. Oil is heavily contaminated with condensed water and unburned gasoline during those minutes between startup and full temperature. Acids form and the fuel dilutes the lubricating ability. I know the modern automotive engine can be ruined by regular 'short-hop' usage where full temperature is rarely reached. I've seen the damage done to bearings. True, these old tractors have been around forever, and maybe we shouldn't be looking for non-existant problems, but all internal combustion engines are alike in many fundamental ways and I would do everything possible to get an engine up to operating temp. as quickly as possible. Most old tractor usage would be classified by most engineers as 'extreme service' and would warrant, at the least, frequent oil changes. The cheapest insurance going! My two cent's worth. Paul

 

[Dave in SV]

What intervals do you recommend for oil/filter changes?

 

[BushogPapa]

You can get an additive that replenishes the anti-corrosion protection in your antifreeze..

If the antifreeze is not contaminated and just plain dirty...why change it..??

 

[Paul Hearsey]

I plan to change my oil twice a year, running a summer weight like 10W30, and a winter weight like 0W30. Just can't crank the engine over at minus 30 even with 5W30. Without a clock or odometer, it's just by the calendar, but I would simply change the oil more often than just once a year as many folks do. I'm sure some will beg to differ, but I never change the filter with each oil change; that's a waste of a perfectly good filter. With my (road) vehicles, I change the oil three times a year and the filter once a year. And I remove, drain and reinstall the filter to get the last of the old oil out. I've cut open a few filters in the past and found they look like new even after many miles. Anyways, my point is that oil is cheap and I've easily gotten 250,000 miles out of every one of my vehicles via regular oil changes and tune-ups. Remember the old Fram ads on TV? "Pay me now or pay me later" All internal combustion engines can benefit from this simple approach. Paul

 

[Handsome Jim]

hot man

 

[Handsome Jim]

hot man

 

[Handsome Jim]

hot man

 

[Handsome Jim]

hot man