Getting plow to stay down while plowing

[paul]

Well, with that thinking, why sharpen anything. True they will need to be replaced sooner if you grind away some of the material but at least they will work better for this extreme condition he is faced with. The alternative is throw them away today.

Seems to me the shares are self sharpening. I’m not really disagreeing, just not sure what it is one would sharpen? Are you putting a bevel on the front side?

What happens is they lose the proper angle?

As I mentioned else where, dad would heat the tip and beat it down a half inch or so, this would give it some suck again. Of course it messed up the hardness of the metal and the tip angle wore down much faster, but as you say it was already wore out, got a few more acres out of it. The Oliver he used was good at still having a tip to beat down; the jd plows we used the tip was the first thing to wear off and wouldn’t have been much there to bend down.

 

[caterpillar guy]

We used to heat points up in the forge and hammer them out to a thinner sharper edge for plowing in summer. I've also seen it when we had to wait for a rain to get a plow to go in .IT would with new points just skate on top. In spring I used to weld on old point on top of another and stick the front out about an inch with them set down about an inch below the bottom edge of a worn point .I would get about 70-80acres out of that set up in the first of the years plowing. You could also try just putting a number nine wire under the top edge of the point on each one above the bolts this will tilt the points down so they will go in better. And if it is to dry you just need to wait for a rain to plow.

 

[Koolken]

So it seems there 2 types of shares on my plow. The front share is longer and curved down. The back 2 are shorter and flat. What am I seeing?

 

[spacechem]

Need help with getting my plow to stay down. When I hit hard soil the back mouldboard comes out of the ground. I obviously don't know what's happening cause I'd say when I turn out the top link.. The push down the back board it's worse so if I got it right the front board pulls the plow down. How much does the leaver do for adjusting debth for the rear board. View attachment 127413View attachment 127412

Oh, Good Grief! Appologies to Koolken for this site. I know you're new here, but it happens a lot. Somebody like you posts a simple question and, before you know it, some old-timer posts a "I 'member my granpappy use' ta'..." and then someone else responds to that and pretty soon the original inquiry gets lost in all the reminiscences which are full of completely useless information.

Hang in there, and maybe- just maybe- you'll get some useful information... eventually...

 

[spacechem]

View attachment 127466View attachment 127467View attachment 127468View attachment 127469
So it seems there 2 types of shares on my plow. The front share is longer and curved down. The back 2 are shorter and flat. What am I seeing?

Well, one thing you're seeing, along with the rest of us, is way too close-up photos! Just a simple straight shot would include the entire front face of the plow bottom, but okay. It doesn't look to me that your shares are worn enough to cause your difficulty. I don't know what you're trying to convey with the tape measure- I think I was specific enough in my post as to how to measure the width of cut for each bottom so you can find the part number shares you need. Perhaps that measurement would be useful if you were able to find a store with plow shares in stock, which I kinda doubt. It looks like maybe you have a deep-suck share on the front bottom and regular shares on the other two. Why? I have no idea.

 

[Koolken]

With the tape I was thinking maybe you could see if they wer worn more than they should be. Would you recommend changing out the other 2 shares to deep-suck shares?

 

[Scott 730]

You need to take a flap wheel to those bottoms and get them shined up. They should be shiny like a mirror. If you don't want to buy new shares right now, I would consider putting the front share on the back bottom. Might make it suck in better. But first you need to get a shine on those moldboards.

 

[Koolken]

Order 2 new shares.. Will put them on tomorrow. Will put the front into the middle and new front and back. Ok.. Will shine them up too. Thanks

 

[flying belgian]

Order 2 new shares.. Will put them on tomorrow. Will put the front into the middle and new front and back. Ok.. Will shine them up too. Thanks

Some times in a dry hard ground we used to cut the heel off the back of the share. In your picture with the tape measure it looks like you could cut about 5" off. Times 3 shares thats 15" less surface you are trying to get in the hard ground.

 

[spacechem]

With the tape I was thinking maybe you could see if they wer worn more than they should be. Would you recommend changing out the other 2 shares to deep-suck shares?
View attachment 127482

Don't know why this showed up here- was supposed to be under your lastest photo- post #26.

That's the Money Shot! Coupla good suggestions below, but I think it's time to turn our attention to field conditions.
1. When was the last time that field was plowed?
2. Is it sod or has the surface been worked at all in the last year?
3. How dry is it?
4. Can you share a photo of what you've done so far?
5. Did you look at the Operators Manual I linked?

 

[560Dennis]

Looks like three different moldboards in photo . What is distance from tip of moldboard to moldboard ?
The sled runners would be under shares 2 and 3 . Like 1/4 inch wide .That lift you out of the ground quick .
When you get you new shares compare it to number on ,front ,that shares look bent down to much . Only need 1/8 inch suck .

 

[560Dennis]

This video may help you

 

[Koolken]

Thanx gentlemen. To answer a few questions.. I've tried a couple fields in barley stubble and black clay soil. The conditions are almost wet but nice conditions to plow. I've printed off the manual this afternoon and haven't had time to read most of it. So from that video i see i have heavy duty full cut 16 inch shares. Well i bought 2 more of the same shares today and after watching the video I'm wondering if i should put all 3 of the same shares on.

 

[Koolken]

First thing I'll recommend is relocating centerlink attachment to middle or possible upper hole on the tractor. Where do you have draft control lever setting in control quadrant? What model is your tractor? Below are draft lever adjustment directions I copied from a different thread That I replied to that could apply to your tractor concerning operation of auto depth control of a 3pt plow. Back when I plowed with a moldboard in really hard ground I adjusted RH lift link a little shorter than normal to roll plow point to the left a little. , View attachment 127450

I will have to study this some more. I think this will help me out a lot.

 

[Tx Jim]

Thanx gentlemen. To answer a few questions.. I've tried a couple fields in barley stubble and black clay soil. The conditions are almost wet but nice conditions to plow. I've printed off the manual this afternoon and haven't had time to read most of it. So from that video i see i have heavy duty full cut 16 inch shares. Well i bought 2 more of the same shares today and after watching the video I'm wondering if i should put all 3 of the same shares on.

Studying the both the plow & tractors operators manuals should help you operate both items better. I think having all shares identical will help plow operate better.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Typically points wear more from the bottom up rather than length ways. I would put all three on and save the old ones for spring or wetter plowing where it will go in easier and wear them out then. T%his will also give you an even wear pattern and level plowing surface behind the plow.

 

[MeanGene1]

Gramps had plowing down to a science, I learned more about end furrows, finding back furrows and dead furrows etc.- and he would put a chalk mark on the inside of the left rear tire to watch, and lay out his rounds with it- worked every time. He was also a big believer in the deep-suck shares, and had to agree- they work very well

 

[paul]

Gramps had plowing down to a science, I learned more about end furrows, finding back furrows and dead furrows etc.- and he would put a chalk mark on the inside of the left rear tire to watch, and lay out his rounds with it- worked every time. He was also a big believer in the deep-suck shares, and had to agree- they work very well

Oh, count the number of tire revolutions to get the same space on each end. Took me a while to I think understand that comment?

Paul

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Honestly it looks like you're trying to plow hot blacktop with that plow. What is all the black tarry substance all over the bottoms?

We could usually run throwaway shares until they were worn to the frog. In a dry spring we'd have to replace them a little sooner, but you'd only get about 30 acres out of a set on a 5 bottom plow anyway. Of course we'd never think about plowing this time of year. Either the ground is like concrete, or you're slogging through mud to get the corn in. Time you got done with corn, it was usually October monsoon season quickly followed by winter. There was no "fall" to do "fall plowing."

 

[Ray,IN]

For a different perspective; read through this Harry Ferguson plow operators manual. It explains in detail how to properly set-up the plow and adjust for each factor.
That said, I'm awaiting the results of your new points/shares.