Gleaner K Straw Walker Sanity Check

[Anonymous-0]

Here is the problem:

Last fall, I was having issues with corn cobs plugging the straw walkers. After every tank, I was back pulling out cobs.

Solution:

Is it possible that all I need to do to remedy this problem is to move the straw walkers back? Or, do I really need to find a set of screens for the straw walkers? In all honesty, I've never seen a machine with screens on the walkers so that's why I'm wondering if it's more of an adjustment issue than anything.

 

[John_PA]

I have the same problem with mine. In fact, I was half tempted to take the walkers out of the machine to clean them out, because they were so plugged.

IF you find a solution, I would be interested as well.

Also, anyone know how much a cob shield for the raddle costs, from Agco dealer?

 

[sd pete]

Get a set of cob wires from Gleaner to put in the walkers. If the book says to move the walkers back do it!

 

[Allan in NE]

Have no idea what they cost now. Last one I bought was something like $29, but that was back in the 70s. Probably more like $75 now. :>(

The cob shield is just a 7-8" partition that bolts to the side of the machine and keeps the cobs from following around that raddle and going back in the hole.

Here's some pictures I took of my old worn out F2. First picture, the shield is out; second with it in.

Pay no attention to the way it hangs down on the right. This machine was rode hard and put away wet. :>(

Allan

 

[Allan in NE]

Hmmmmm,

Possible, I guess. Are they set clear forward now?

Is your engine/machine running up to speed? Do you have the swingin' metal curtain installed? Is the canvas curtain in place? What kind of shape is that separater beater in?

Too much ground speed and overloading the walkers?

Are you letting the machine clear before you disengage the separater clutch and/or idle down?

Dunno, have never seen a walker plug with cobs other than maybe just a few stragglers. Silks will absolutely drive 'em crazy during heavy dew/melting frost conditions tho.

Allan

 

[Tim(nj)]

I think the cob shield may be discontinued. The rubber curtains supposedly are no longer available for the K series . . . .

 

[Anonymous-0]

When cleaning them, start from the front- use a screwdriver to push the stuck cobs on through. Then loosen the chaff a bit and push it forward. Usually just a handful of cobs start the mess on each walker- get them down and run the machine- should shake out easily. Screens really help too. If your walkers are open to the rear- you can reach in with a j-hook and break the cobs out as well.

 

[cadet trooper]

OK fellas, here are a couple things that I learned as a dealer so don't throw barbs at me. First of all the problem starts at the cylinder you need to make sure the the rasp bars fall in the criteria of the manual as far as the wear is concerned then make sure the gauge is accurate at the point of impact and then set it to the book settings and don't worry about getting whole cob through the machine like JD and whoever getting whole cob through a gleaner is as rare as hens teeth big cobs cause big problems in the walkers also make sure you have a KS machine or Corn/Soybean Special or Corn Plus which should have the nessesary screens and curtains to do the job. You folks who have owned Gleaners for years should know this because you should be running extreme cylinder clearances like 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch unlike Deere and whomever at over an inch or more. The clearances I mentioned should produce busted cobs.

 

[Allan in NE]

Comon' now. Fess up.

Ya stopped off for happy hour didn't ya? :>)

Allan

 

[John_PA]

The pictures really help. Thanks a lot for that.

I guess I could make a cob shield if I can't buy one.

As far as the cylinder clearance, It was set up at 3/4" and was not breaking a lot of cobs. Broken cobs just end up in the bin. The concave and cyl bars were new 60 acres ago. The cobs sticking in the straw walkers are both whole cobs and broken cobs. The book says nothing about all this. It's very vague (for the guys who always say, "read the book, duh.")

For now, I will be doing oats and don't think I will have as many problems as with the corn.

When I get set-up for corn this winter, I will try to run some through a few times and make some adjustments and see what works. That's the nice thing about corn. We usually wait until late novemeber and take off little bits up until Christmas. I have a lot more time to fool around, unlike grains which have just a small window to get them out of the field.

Thanks again Allen.

John

 

[Skyhighballoon(MO)]

John - I just got an EIII this spring which is just like your K except for the engine. I have not done corn yet and probably won't till probably next year as my 330 cornhead I boought for it needs work. The combine settings for corn are not in the combine manual, they are in the cornhead manual. So if you don't have a cornhead manual, start looking for one. I got a whole extra set of walkers out a K being scrapped and plan this winter to make my own walker screens to weld in them with a wire welder. Let us know you you come out running yours this year. Mike

 

[John_PA]

Mike,

I'll have to get a cornhead manual, then.

Have you noticed any kind of rattling noises comign from your variable drive pulley?

I am having a bit of a problem with mine, right now. It appears that the outer sheave has a pressed in brass piece, and mine is worn. It looks like that is part of the outer sheave and can't be ordered separately.

I just love this machine!

Can't blame the machine, it hasn't had a good "going through" in probably 30 years.

 

[Allan in NE]

John,

If I can remember, I'll try to get you a picture of that shield from the front side.

I run a lot of old equipment and one of the outlets I frequent most has turned out to be the local Heating/Air Conditioning shop. They could stamp out that shield in about 7 minutes.

Where the metal turns forward 90 degrees and is bolted to the sides of the combine, there are four 2" "slots" to allow for vertical adjustment. Then, all a guy would need is a backward pointing 90 at the top and bottom to give it strength.

Think a guy would probably want to use 20 ga. stock.

Allan

 

[Anonymous-0]

Simply cannot agree with the idea that whole cobs should not go through the machine. If you break them up, they just put more pressure on the cleaning system. One poster mentioned that broken cob pieces end up in the grain tank- he needs to close down the chaffer and the sieve. Using filler bars helps to keep the cobs whole, unless they are wet and rubbery, but they make it easier to shell the cob clean. And like the book says- they are intended for corn only, not small grain or high speed. All combine settings ARE in the op manual. Your reminder about zeroing the cylinder gauge and leveling the cylinder is good- too often overlooked.

 

[John_PA]

Does anyone else want a beer? It's after 12pm here in the east.