Gravely snow blower

Bristol

New User
After many years of good service the impeller has lost it's drive in that the clutch is slipping and unless it's very light powdery snow it won't work.
The large nuts at either end that supposedly help adjust the clutch don't seem to do much.
Not sure were the clutch is for sure.
Any ideas?
 

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After many years of good service the impeller has lost it's drive in that the clutch is slipping and unless it's very light powdery snow it won't work.
The large nuts at either end that supposedly help adjust the clutch don't seem to do much.
Not sure were the clutch is for sure.
Any ideas?
I don't know about that model but it could be the bronze gear in the worm/gear box. The worm is usually hardened steel and the gear is bronze so it will wear out first
 
Whoa ! Snow cannon huh ! Best there is , it through some snow over the utility poles .
pto clutch is a cone friction disk in the transmission .
I d try the adjustment route first. , if not well it a job ,I haven been inside one in 20 years ,not much help. Haven’t been the club , so I don’t know whose left now
 
There is a safety clutch behind the PTO. The low speed auger might have Belleville washers to adjust if it is slipping. Is the high speed impeller spinning? The bronze gear wearing out is a common problem due to lack of lubrication.
 
After many years of good service the impeller has lost it's drive in that the clutch is slipping and unless it's very light powdery snow it won't work.
The large nuts at either end that supposedly help adjust the clutch don't seem to do much.
Not sure were the clutch is for sure.
Any ideas?
It's hard to tell from your pictures, but it looks like your blower is mounted on a four wheel riding tractor. As 560Dennis says, the clutch is in the transmission. The last time I looked (and that was some years back) a new clutch was over $600 and they estimated a good mechanic would require about 8 hours labor to replace it. Until it wears out completely, the clutch linkage can be adjusted relatively easily. When you engage the clutch on a rider, the handle should have about 1/2" before it hits the metal housing on the dash.

It sounds like you need to look at some manuals. There are several sites on the internet with lots of manuals that can be downloaded. One of the better sites is:

 
Thanks,
BUT I still need help on the clutch that is in the snow blower. The PTO is fine and the 2 diving clutches ae fine also.
 
Thanks,
BUT I still need help on the clutch that is in the snow blower. The PTO is fine and the 2 diving clutches ae fine also.
We aren't mind readers. Your pictures don't tell us the model number or even the width and vintage of the snow blower. Your best bet is to look at some manuals and see if anything looks similar to yours.


There may be some obvious adjustments that can be made or perhaps the friction disks are just worn out and need to be replaced.
 
Thanks...I have the manuals. I don't know what model it is as I can't find any writings on it or I don't know were to look.
I don't know the vintage other than a previous poster called it a "snow cannon".
The manuals do not show adjustments, or none that I can see reading them. it's a 38" but other's look the same in the manuals.
It's a 20G hydraulic lift 4 wheels riding tractor with a mowing deck .
 
Thanks...I have the manuals. I don't know what model it is as I can't find any writings on it or I don't know were to look.
I don't know the vintage other than a previous poster called it a "snow cannon".
The manuals do not show adjustments, or none that I can see reading them. it's a 38" but other's look the same in the manuals.
It's a 20G hydraulic lift 4 wheels riding tractor with a mowing deck .
If the drive shaft and big pulley are continuing to turn when it stops working, the transmission clutch is likely just fine. If that shaft/pulley slow down or stop, the transmission clutch is suspect.
If you (engine off) turn the second stage blower fins by hand while holding the auger, and it turns, the gear box is shreaded. It may drive for 1/2 turn or more then slip. pulling the plug and looking for brass grindings is also definitive. Jim
 
Thanks but as far as I can tell the parts you indicate are ok.
I am starting to think I have badly worn discs or clutch discs. From one of the manuals there are 2, one on each inside end of the main shaft and they are called Reel overload clutch.
Looks like I will run with the blower lifted high and take small bites and deal with light snow.
When I am out of snow.....next month?? I will have to remove the main horizontal shaft and see about replacing the clutches that in the parts list
item 26.
Probably not easily available, but can improvise something....I hope LOL.
PS.....the video just posted Dennis looks like mine used to work!
 
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If you have a parts manual double check.

I am thinking that the clutch is in the gearbox and made up using parts.

Driver
Driver Plate
Slipper Disc (2 of them)
Pressure Plate

If any of those parts are worn out. Good luck in your search for they are no longer available from Gravely.

Edited to ask: Is that a 16G tractor? The grills looks like the one on my 1995 16G pro.
 
Thanks but as far as I can tell the parts you indicate are ok.
I am starting to think I have badly worn discs or clutch discs. From one of the manuals there are 2, one on each inside end of the main shaft and they are called Reel overload clutch.
Looks like I will run with the blower lifted high and take small bites and deal with light snow.
When I am out of snow.....next month?? I will have to remove the main horizontal shaft and see about replacing the clutches that in the parts list
item 26.
Probably not easily available, but can improvise something....I hope LOL.
PS.....the video just posted Dennis looks like mine used to work!
I looked at all the 38" snowblower manuals I could find. None showed item 26 being a clutch disc, and no other parts called Reel overload Clutch.

However, all seemed to show various item numbers labeled Friction Disc with the same part number of 9657 or 9657p1. A search of these numbers (some with some lead zeros) show that this part number was superseded by Ariens part number 20036800 after Ariens acquired Gravely. Several places (including Ebay) seem to have this part in stock for around $50 (ouch!!)

One Ebay seller lists the Gravely 9657 for $19.95 plus $5 shipping. The parts diagrams look like it may be possible to replace these without much effort.
 
The Reel overload clutch is not the name of a part, but of the whole mechanism. It's covered, including it's adjustment, in the operating manual for the 44"and 38" blower.
Item 26 is called the plate drive (parts page) and just another word for a clutch disc. Your info calls it friction disc...all the same.
Thanks for the part numbers but will wait till I get it apart so as to be sure and also to have a size/diameter.
 
The Reel overload clutch is not the name of a part, but of the whole mechanism. It's covered, including it's adjustment, in the operating manual for the 44"and 38" blower.
Item 26 is called the plate drive (parts page) and just another word for a clutch disc. Your info calls it friction disc...all the same.
Thanks for the part numbers but will wait till I get it apart so as to be sure and also to have a size/diameter.
It's your snowblower, so do what you want. The diagram I see shows the clutch disc next to the "drive plate." The reel shaft must have two flat sides. The drive plate fits over the shaft. When the clutch disc presses hard enough against the drive plate, the reel shaft will turn. When the clutch disc doesn't press (hard enough) against the drive plate, the reel shaft will not turn. Please see the Ebay link to the drive plate. I couldn't find any close-up pictures of the reel shaft

 
Thanks, I agree, which is why I probably need new clutch discs in order to get sufficient pressure.
I looked at the one on E bay and It looks like what I would expect from the parts page, maybe a bit bigger?
 
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