Agree with Jon. I got this one for just about the value of the fuel that was in it. In addition to a quick inspection of the tank condition, look for legs that are not bent, and have good cross bracing.Looking for some advice on what brand/style of gravity feed diesel tank to get on my farm? Looking for 150-300 gallon tank that I will fill with off-road diesel. My farm has been in the family for just under 100 years now and it's time to upgrade the fuel storage!
I am looking at one similar to this. I already have a small concrete pad poured, so the foundation should be good for a couple thousand pounds of fuel. Does the gravity feed work good on yours?Agree with Jon. I got this one for just about the value of the fuel that was in it. In addition to a quick inspection of the tank condition, look for legs that are not bent, and have good cross bracing.
The downfall for gravity is they are slower and auto shut off nozzles don't work. That means you have to hold the nozzle while you fill.I am looking at one similar to this. I already have a small concrete pad poured, so the foundation should be good for a couple thousand pounds of fuel. Does the gravity feed work good on yours?
Yes… For the amount of gas we use (mostly my 90 year old mother), this works great. I just don’t need her toting 5 gallon cans. It came with a filter on it. I replaced it with new. Flows good. Not fast (which is a good thing). As others have mentioned, if you’re regularly filling up big modern equipment, this is not the best solution. But if you’re using less than 100 gallons a year, in smaller equipment… This is a simple, good solution.I am looking at one similar to this. I already have a small concrete pad poured, so the foundation should be good for a couple thousand pounds of fuel. Does the gravity feed work good on yours?
And one more comment on installation. I had two opposing thoughts on how best to position the tank relative to 100% level. One could be to slightly angle it up at the outlet (so that water collects in the back of the tank, to be drained out the hole opposite of the main outlet). The other thought was to slightly angle it down, so that the outlet passes everything out regularly. I chose the latter, as I thought that no one would regularly check and drain anything collected from the back hole.Yes… For the amount of gas we use (mostly my 90 year old mother), this works great. I just don’t need her toting 5 gallon cans. It came with a filter on it. I replaced it with new. Flows good. Not fast (which is a good thing). As others have mentioned, if you’re regularly filling up big modern equipment, this is not the best solution. But if you’re using less than 100 gallons a year, in smaller equipment… This is a simple, good solution.
Agree, better to have a visible water separator bowl to encourage draining and not to have water at the bottom of the tank encouraging rusting and bacteria growth.And one more comment on installation. I had two opposing thoughts on how best to position the tank relative to 100% level. One could be to slightly angle it up at the outlet (so that water collects in the back of the tank, to be drained out the hole opposite of the main outlet). The other thought was to slightly angle it down, so that the outlet passes everything out regularly. I chose the latter, as I thought that no one would regularly check and drain anything collected from the back hole.
This is where I am at. My grandpa is now 86 years old, and lugging around 5 gallon diesel cans is just not doable anymore. The time it takes to run to town and back is starting to add up for me as I also work outside the house. I think I'll pull the trigger on a gravity feed tank. We don't farm with big equipment. I have a 75hp John Deere and we are only doing around 60-70 acres of hay. It keeps me busy.Yes… For the amount of gas we use (mostly my 90 year old mother), this works great. I just don’t need her toting 5 gallon cans. It came with a filter on it. I replaced it with new. Flows good. Not fast (which is a good thing). As others have mentioned, if you’re regularly filling up big modern equipment, this is not the best solution. But if you’re using less than 100 gallons a year, in smaller equipment… This is a simple, good solution.
I have tilted tanks away from the filter and end up eventually having pin hole leaks. Now I tilt the tank to the filter and drain a spoon full of water out of the visible filter each year. And the filter.. will not pass the water by design. With the bigger tractors, we had to put railroad ties under our tanks to get them high enough to fill. When the tanks are more than half full, they fill pretty fast, When they are lower, they fill slower.. Dang gravity/moon thing going on here? ; )And one more comment on installation. I had two opposing thoughts on how best to position the tank relative to 100% level. One could be to slightly angle it up at the outlet (so that water collects in the back of the tank, to be drained out the hole opposite of the main outlet). The other thought was to slightly angle it down, so that the outlet passes everything out regularly. I chose the latter, as I thought that no one would regularly check and drain anything collected from the back hole.
Those tanks are not designed to be moved when full without bottom support, nor are the top loops for lifting when full. I have one and use it as a portable, but I welded up a skid out of square and rectangular tube that it is mounted on to provide proper support and fork pockets for lifting.I'd probably get one of those tanks that fit in your pickup. Use a hand pump or the 12 volt pumps are cheap. You can keep the tank in the pickup to run to town to fill if you want or slide it out and set it on blocks. If sitting on blocks the bulk supplier can still fill it and if it is empty and the supplier can't make it, then slide it back into your pickup or a trailer. Set it on a pallet and use your tractor bucket to set it on your pickup or trailer. If the tank has pad eyes on it then your a tractor bucket and chains can move it around.
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