ground for a trailer

[johndeereman]

correct me if im wrong but doesnt grease conduct electricity having trouble with the ground for my trailer i cleaned the ball and greased it up still got a bad ground i know its rusty between the hitch and the reciever wondering if i took apart and cleaned then greased it up if it would still conduct a ground through the grease i dont want to put a ground wire through the plug just because i dont want to tear it apart againi have electric trailer brakes with a ground wire they wont work either unless the trailer is grounded thanks johndeereman

 

[IaGary]

I wired several trailers and pickups when I worked at the weld shop.

The only way we could get consistent results was to wire a ground into the plug on the pickup and into the trailer plug.

Screw the wire to the trailer frame and run the ground on the truck to a good grounding spot on the truck also.

Electric brakes are the first to show the lack of a ground from the truck to the trailer. Turn signals were the second most common problem of lack of ground.

Gary

 

[Anonymous-0]

It's best to run a dedicated ground wire. The grease will fool around with the ground. Dave

 

[Puller504]

To do it right ground a wire on the truck frame and run this wire to a pole on the truck side of the trailer plugin on the truck. Run another ground wire from the trailer frame to the same position on the trailer wiring plug that plugs into the truck wiring recepticle. Truck manufacturers specify which pole on a connector to use. Never depend on the trailer hitch for a ground, ESPECIALLY when electric trailer brakes are used! Don

 

[RobMD]

Yeah, A dedicated ground would be a good idea. All you would have to do is dangle a ground wire from your hitch and hook it up with a male/female slot connector which is hooked to a wire dangling on the hitch.

Simple enough, but i've been getting away with keeping the ball and trailer wire brushed and lightly greased.

 

[RobMD]

GOOD POINT about the electric trailer brakes...

 

[Puller504]

Kinda difficult to explain "I've been getting away with" to the authorities or victim's loved ones, or attorney, isn't it? Don

 

[RWK in WI]

In some cases with borrowed trailers we use a Short Jumper cable with one clamp on a solid ground on the truck and the other on the trailer.
Just an idea.

 

[Oldmax]

I have found that if trailor has brakes I go to the battery post to get ground for trailer . Saves a lot of trouble later on . Always use a decated ground to trailer . Neaver depend on ball will let you down every time I found this out in 1965 after spending two days trouble shooting lights on utility trailer after that I always use ground wire .

 

[Anonymous-0]

Run a separate ground wire, but if you want a conductive lube, nothing will beat never-seize. The aluminum or whatever metal it is based on conducts very well.

 

[RobMD]

little 500 pound 4x8 trailer with no brakes.

Rest of my trailers are gooseneck and have that uh, 7 prong connector?? with built in ground

 

[Anonymous-0]

I thought I should add that the grease on the ball will wear out the coupler faster than if it was dry. It seems backwards but I used to grease the ball on my skid steer trailer and there was a sticky mess of metal shavings wearing away the coupler. I changed it to a pintle hitch to match my Cat trailer and truck. Dave

 

[buickanddeere]

The only way to ground your trailer is to drive a 10ft rod into the soil and connect via #6 copper wire. Problem is that ties up your trailer and leaves it no longer mobile.
As the situation is completing a return circuit through the vehicle chassis. Then a dedicated chassis return wire from the trailer back to a good (-) chassis connection on the vehicle is possible.

 

[John T]

Johndeereman, Anytime the ground current return path is weak or resistive badddddddd things start to happen such as turn or brake lights flashinG where theyre NOT supposed to and weak lights etc etc and ESPECIALLY poor electric brake performance cuz the current is seeking alternate return paths. YOU SIMPLY GOTTA RUN A SEPERATE DEDICTAED GROUND WIRE CIRCUIT and include it among the wires in the trailer connector plug n receptacle......PERIOD........ Im NOT saying a ground is impossible via the hitch n ball buttttttttt its best to also use what I post below.

I like to bolt n tack weld a stainless steel nut n bolt direct to the trailers iron frame and run a wire from it to the plugs ground terminal and then at the trucks receptacle do the same. If the truck has ready made receptacle and/or you can use a wiring harness adapter it should already have a good ground return (still dont hurt to supplement it per the above) but you still need the good trailer frame ground ya know.

Its sooooooo simple n easy n can only help so I suggest you do it.

John T

 

[Bus Driver]

Grease is an insulator.

 

[John T]

Driver man, Ditto on that, I'd consider general purpose petroleum based grease (n many others for that matter) as a poor electrical conductor myslef. Sure, many liquids or semi liquids have some conductive properties albeit high resistance, but Id prefer direct metal to metal contact versus grease covered for an electrical connection. PREFER A GOOD WIRED N BONDED GROUND OF COURSE VERSUS THE TRAILER BALL ALONE

John T

 

[Mike (WA)]

Ditto on the ground rod, for best results, albeit with some serious "usability issues". BTW- put a new electrical service in my barn when I added and wired Ma's Tack Room. No inspector is ever gonna see it, but I try to do it right anyhow. Local electrical supply store features clerks with encyclopedic knowledge of electrical code. When I asked for a ground rod, he advised that code now requires 2 eight foot ground rods- with #6 copper going through the connector on the first, then terminating at the connector on the second. When the laughter subsided, I told him I'd try to just struggle by with one. He admitted that the second ground rod was a bit of a hard sell on the do-it-yourself non-inspected installations. I figure the Ground Rod Manufacturer's Association must have a pretty good lobbiest.

 

[rustyj]

I towed a travel trailer around for a bunch of years, and here's the way i handled the trailer ground problem:
I fastened one end of a wire to the frame of the trailer, with a loop end, and a bolt and nut and lock washer! On the other end of that wire, i installed a double wire connector, like used on autos and trucks, to connect wires together. Matters not wether it has the prong sticking out. The other piece of wire, i fastened to the truck frame the same way. On the other end was the corresponding connector. The wires were fastened down with metal clips, but you can use plastic wire ties now. (Didn't have them back then!)
When you hook up to the trailer, just plug the extra wires together, and you will have a good trailer ground, and your electric brakes will work.
A bit of axle grease where the wire is bolted to each area, will tend to stop any rust from forming.
The travel trailer came with a wiring schematic that showed the way to connect the wiring to the tow vehicle, including the break-away switch, which was required on the larger trailers. That switch applied the brakes if the trailer became disconnected from the tow vehicle. It is State law in Pa.