h stroker crank

[jason pohlman]

looking for a stroker crank for an h. 5 1/2 or 5 3/4?anybody have one forsale? and maybe some rods to go in a 4" bore 350 block? thanks

 

[AC]

I have a new 6" crank, with rod bearings. Give me a call 1 269 921 4686 AC

 

[Craig-NC]

FYI: a 6" stroker won't fit in a stock H motor...just to give you the heads up.

 

[jason pohlman]

what is requirerd to fit this crank in a 350 block? i know a 5 3/4 crank w/stock rods will work.will the 6" crank need custom rods?i will be using automotive type pistons.thanks

 

[AC]

Its a 2.08 rod journal, so it requires a custom rod. The up side to this is minimal clearencing, well, I say minimal as compared to 5.75 - 6" with a stock rod journal. You will get onto the cam pretty well, but you will just as bad if not worse with a stock rod. None of it is EASY, just easier than other ways to do it. 4 x 6 would be a damn good runner....AC

 

[AC]

Sorry I missed your call, will return it tomorrow evening..andy

 

[Anonymous-0]

I hope this crank is better than the W.C.crank you had!

 

[AC]

Whipped your A$$ didnt it? Na, its alot bigger journal than that old Sharps combination I had in the WC. I'm just not going to do an H Farmall anymore.

 

[Craig-NC]

So is a 350 bore and a 5-1/2 stroke with good RPM"s...there"s not a lot of difference in horses when you go from 3.625x5.5 to 4x6

 

[AC]

But there is no replacement for displacement..

 

[Anonymous-0]

(quoted from post at 18:54:58 10/01/07) So is a 350 bore and a 5-1/2 stroke with good RPM"s...there"s not a lot of difference in horses when you go from 3.625x5.5 to 4x6

Quite a bit difference in comparison when they are dialed in. The small motor will run forever, and the large motor will require supervision after a period of time. But dialed in, and built right, the 4x6 would be a positive step for a bigger ci higher hp and keep the rpms in the 10-20% over rpms. Vs the small motor. The 5-3/4 to 6 inch stroke range is where they really come to life and make good power, unbelivable power if done right. But you have to have a stout block to handle the compression pressure increase, and the piston speed in it will be furious at 2000 rpm, so, a huge bore block with some sort of pressed in sleeve, the thicker the sleeve the better,,,, might be best interest VS a thin walled bored out block at that stroke.

Building the block to hold up and still have water to keep em cool and getting them to seal for a long period of time with pressed in sleeves thick enough to handle the stress of the piston speed, and the cyl pressure above 250 psi at test. Head gasket and cyl head, if a deck plate is used, I can see 4 inch bore 350 block with a dry sleeve insert and not have to worry about gasket problems,,,, But without the deck plate, if the sleeves stay put, and the block dont flex and crack, the head gasket might seal up for a season or two, or till the cyl pressure pushes the sealant off the gasket, or will puke the block. The deck plate, with dry sleeves inside the pressed in sleeve should help eliminate most block flex, and hold the sleeves in place and hold together longer, and possibly, hold water.

 

[jason pohlman]

how about staying with a 3.800 bore and using the 6"stroke? will the block hold up to this with out the sleeves? by the way what is the difference between a 350 tractor block and a 350 industrial block? is one better then the other? thanks jason

 

[Anonymous-0]

(quoted from post at 14:36:57 10/02/07) how about staying with a 3.800 bore and using the 6"stroke? will the block hold up to this with out the sleeves? by the way what is the difference between a 350 tractor block and a 350 industrial block? is one better then the other? thanks jason

It would all come down to the rod and piston combo. The rods would have to shorter than stock, with an offset rod cap, best explained as a smaller version of a "Stock" stroker rod, a miniature version tuned in to spec. In areas known where the stock rods limits are, thats where to modify the changes in the new rod for added clearence, proper rod length, and speced out to the new rod journal size. Best description of what to do to know for sure is to have a Mock block, that crank and piston selected, and with a 2X4, and some wood working skills, widdle out a rod out out of wood, and take it to somebody who builds rods and make a deal. Put it together, thats the short block,,,,, A largely ported, low compression cyl head would work, keeping the cyl presure under 250 psi, but over 225 psi, cause it has a potential of 300+ with a 350 gas head with a flat top piston,,,, cyl pressure will have to be dropped so it wont self destruct. If the block had hardened steel sleeve inserts (dry sleeves) Id be more amped to run the cyl pressures up to 270-285 psi, but cast block, under that kind of pressure (250+psi) I dont think it would hold for long till it split a cyl. I figured a 350 block at 3.8125 bore possibly handling up to 275 psi with a 5-3/4 stroker, so Id start with low cyl pressure and give it a try,, I know a 5-3/4 stroker with stock rods is capable of 295 psi at cranking speed, with flat top pistons, with an 8043DC cyl head with .100 milled off. Hope this helps,,, But, I would give it shot to see if it fly, Id hear it run for sure if it cleared. Just my opinion. Currently building a 3.8125 X 5-3/4 300 block. ChadS. [email protected]