H timing HELP

[Anonymous-0]

finally ready to start my H, front end is still missing, but hey, I cannot wait to heat it,it's been 14 years since I have heard it run, Grandpa and favorite uncle has passed on,so it is just me to makeitrun, anyway, got sentimental.

How can I time this beast???, I have found TDC on #1 cylinder, (when #4 valve is rockin', according to Guy on "the rebuild video") I found the mark on the crank gear, I know the firing order, #1 wire is marked on the distributer cap, I believe it has a mag.

How can I tell if my mag is working without have the SH!# shocked out of me? I have heard stories'bout them things.

Turns over fairly easy, new pistons,sleeves, rings, bearings, block tanked, head redone...

On the farm, we always pulled started it, I had the starter checked out, it works good, THEonly bad stuff is it doesn'tcrank long, then battery is dead, ignition button gets a little warm, cables are old, but look very good.

Sorry for long post, just got in around 12:30am from barn and needed to VENT. Thanks everyonefor all the posts, LOVE reading them.

 

[georgeky]

Not sure what you need. Do you have the front off the tractor, and putting it together?

 

[Anonymous-0]

Easy take all the plugs out now hook #1 wire to a plug have the plug grounded good. Stick your finger in the #1hole and turn over when you feel the compression the plug should show fire. This will even make sure the mag isnt off 180deg as it fires on tdc if it dont check the rotor to make sure its lined up with the tower when it fires.

 

[Wayne in MN]

Battery (distributor) ignition timing for H & M:

First, make sure the timing is set correctly. Late timing (too small of a gap or incorrect setting) will act like too rich carburetor problems.
Timing should be set so the points open (set the gap first, .016" for battery ignition) when the timing pointer is between the double marks on the pulley; use the crank or turn the fan by hand (switch off) to locate the marks. With the ignition switch off; use an ohmmeter or self powered test light to verify the point opening instant. This can be done with either #1 (rotor points 2 o’clock) or #4 (rotor points 8 o’clock) at TDC. Loosen the 2 distributor hold-down cap screws and rotate the body of the distributor in the direction of normal rotor travel (clockwise) until the points are closed (test light is on, ohmmeter reads very low ohms). Now rotate the distributor body backwards until the points JUST open; lock the cap screws and you are good to go.
It is CRITICAL for the points have to be CLEAN and ADJUSTED first.
If you have a 12 volt test light (if your system is 6 volt, the light will be dimmer), turn on the ignition switch after locating TDC and follow the same procedure. The light is on with points closed and off when the points open.
Needless to say, points, rotor, cap, & wires have to be in decent shape.

Now start the engine & warm it up in NEUTRAL and BRAKES LOCKED; run at WOT (wide open throttle) and turn the high-speed adjusting screw in & out to find the "sweet spot" where the engine runs its fastest & smoothest. Turn this high-speed screw out an extra 1/2--3/4 turn for power. Idle the engine down & set the idle speed. Now turn the idle mixture screw in to richen, out to lean so the idle is smoothest (this is an AIR adjusting screw so works opposite of the main fuel screw on the bottom of the carb). Re-adjust the idle speed. Perform the carb adjusting procedure another time to be sure all mixtures are correct.
Don't forget that in the winter your air cleaner may cause richness due to cold oil in the cup or even ice blocking the air passage.

 

[TomH in PA]

I'd replace the battery cables with the heaviest ones you can find. And make sure the connection to ground is as good as you can get it. Old cables might look okay on the outside, but the insulation breaks down and the conductor inside starts to break apart. Same with the cable from the switch to the starter.

 

[Bob Havens]

The best way to avoid getting shocked is to have your wife hold the end of the wire while you turn the mag over. If she's bigger than you or you've already tried this method before, cut the adjusting tab off an old spark plug. Connect the spark plug wire and ground the base of the plug and the mag to a common ground. The mag should fire this gap with a hot blue spark when the impulse coupling snaps. Check for spark from the coil (top) terminal.

Assuming the mag works and number one cylinder is at TDC, remove the dist cap and turn the mag until the rotor points to the number one terminal. Install mag to engine in this position. With the kill wire connected and the ignition switch off, turn the engine over slowly and listen for every other snap (1 or 4) of the impulse coupling. This snap should occur at TDC. Rotate the mag on the mount to adjust.

 

[Anonymous-0]

yeah, front is off, got a block hanging off the front of the rear end.

 

[Anonymous-0]

wife is not bigger than me, just meaner, so I'll try method #2. I think we will bothbenefit from that one, thanks a bunch on the info!!