Half rebuilding a disk?

kyplowboy

Well-known Member
I know some will say it can't be done cause it ain't right but I have a question. I am crunched on time and money and have a question about my disk. I have a disk that is about worn out. The frame is still good but the blades are about shot. Most are still round just getting small.

First, how messed up would it work to put new blades on the front or back?

Second, if I can get by with only doing one end this year and figure'n on doing the other next winter, would it work best to have new only on the front or back?

Thanks alot.

Dave
 
I think that if the disk can be leveled with an adjuster, or the top link, that I wold put the new in front, this would allow more aggressive bite, with the smaller blades doing the secondary slice and dice. JimN
 
Usually the front ones wear faster and are smaller than the back ones. If so I would put the new ones on the front. They make the first cut and the smaller back ones have it a little easier. Then if you wait a few years I would put the new ones on the front again and put the older ones on the back. I've done this many times and it works great....James
 
Howdy. First off, you don't say whether this is a 3 point or a drag disc. How much difference would there be in the size of the blades. I think it would probably work, but I would put the new blades on the front and weight the back down. If it's a 3 point, you could use the top link to adjust for the different size blades, I think.......RW
 
You can also take the back gangs apart and put the biggest ones you have on the back. I put the biggest in the center on the front and smaller as you go out and the biggest ones on the outside on the rear and smaller as you go in, helps the disk dig more even. Another thing to do is put disks a inch or 2 smaller as the last blade on the outside of the front and inside of the rear to keep the disk from ridging as much. Also the outside rear blade can be smaller....James
 

Yep - we've done it that way several times. The big Krause 2146 (45 foot disk) takes 120 blades or something like that, so it is a pretty big bill to do the whole thing at once. Especially putting 24 inch 1/4 thick blades on.

Plus, the fronts wear faster than the rears, so we've replaced them twice to once on back a couple of times.

Howard
 
It is a 14' pull type, sorry.


Thank Yall so much, I knew I had seen disk done this way before, just got to second guessing myself.

Thanks again.

Dave
 
I have done just one gang at a time. I would put new ones on front. AAlso, do you plan on checking the bearings and greasing it good at the same time. Henry
 
Yes, change'n bearings is a pain, while I have it apart I will just replace the bearings. Of the 8 bearings on the thing only 2 or 3 are greaseable, that alone is reason enough for me to up grade while it is in parts.
 
Stop by your local implement dealer and ask if he has any used discs from that massive stuff that comes in for rebuilding now. You may have to use a gas tourch to move around the mounting points. That what I did for my 14 foot JD disc. For the bigger disc I went to farm auctions and bought several old JD surflex plows, just for discs. It dosen't matter if they are the right size or not. Just crank the axel bolts as tight as possiple. It is work, but will last for years. It will be a bunch of work, but you are going to need a good disc. Also, I suggest you buy a 14' chisel plow with sweeps and twisted spikes. Makes life easer.
 
Thanks, most of the used stuff round here is in worse shape than mine is. I helped my grandfather put an 8 foot disk together years ago, I know this is going to be a big job for me. I don't think my old tractor would like the 14' chisel plow, the 10' works it pretty hard now. Does the twisted spikes make it any easier to pull. I don't chisel a whole lot, just the tobacco patch every year.

Dave
 
Yes, put new ones on the front gangs and on the back put the best of the used, this is commonly done on disk, mainly cause blades are so expensive.
 
Where is a good place to source new discs, bearings and even the axles for the discs if you were to build your own disc plow? Which brands are the best and what kind of prices can one expect to have to pay? I am thinking of building a 10' two row disc.

Joe
 
Some one from Mt Pleasant, Iowa give him telephone number for the parts jobber. at that location and the one in Kankakee, Il.
 
Do the front first. Buy new blades from a local dealer. Most all of them carry an aftermarket line that will suffice. Measure the gang bolt size.... then note that most aftermarket blades are made to fit two sizes of gang bolt with the square holes offset from one another at 45 degrees. MAKE SURE THAT YOU USE THE LARGER OF THE TWO HOLES IN THE BLADE as using the smaller hole will result in the blades spinning on the gang bolt. ie... if the blade has a 1" hole and a 1-1/8" hole and your disc has the 1-1/8" gang bolt... that's the blade you need, not the one that has both a 1-1/8" hole and 1-1/4" hole. Those will be spinners...
Replace the bearings while you're at it. Should take 1/2 a day or so to do the front gangs. I'd probably replace the gang bolts as a matter of principle at this point. I've had too many old ones break on me. Tighten it all up and make sure that the bearings and hangers do not prevent the spools from clamping together. You'll need to loosen the hangers to get everything tight on the gang and then retighten the hanger bolts. Again, the job could take anywhere from a couple hours to a day depending on how fast you work, how bad it is and what you try to save...

Rod
 
the outfit in kankakee is shoups. shoupparts dot com. they got all kinds of stuff, good prices too.
 
If your blades are wore round in the center then your may have to replace the axle because it will be wore round, too. And even with new blades you won;t keep the blades from turning on the shaft. The main cause of the blades and shaft getting rounded off is the shafts are not kept tight. I bought a JD RA 14' with a broken shaft. I had machine make two new ones(about $85 apiece)and replaced about half the blades and bearing. Did the job myself and it cost me about $400. Cheapest 16" blades were at Tractor Supply.
 
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