Hand Starting an A

New John Deere A owner, as of last Monday.
I finally saw the light of green and yellow.
1944 model, flywheel start only.
I have had some success at starting, sometimes more easily than others.
I am interested in what you A owners have found to be some of the best techniques for starting.
Tom
 
My way:
Open fuel valve on sediment bowl to tank you are using (I have a sediment bowl on both tanks).
Set choke at 1/2
Open petcocks
Make sure tractor is in neutral.
Turn flywheel (sometimes it starts on the first turn, but most often it takes 3-4 turns).
I have found each tractor has it own unique starting personality.
 
The best tip will be the proper application of choke.

And that will be NOT full on as that postition closes off all air flow!!! You should leave it open a crack so that enriched air can actually flow thru the carb and on into the cylinders where it is supposed to go in the first place. Neat huh?

Later on they cut divets into the choke plate or used holes for the air bypass thing to work without the user having to engage brain the very first thing in the morning when plowing for days on end like they did back in day.

This a pretty long first step for a new guy too. There are more that you'll need, like keeping the clutch drum turning while idling for any time at all since that turning drum is geared to the larger gear that is on the input shaft to the transmission on the right side of the tractor under that huge case hanging off that side. If that large gear in there doesn't turn, it doesn't carry the engine oil up to the return hole that is under the clutch drum and the case will hold 4 or 5 quarts and then it will spill out onto the ground thru the clutch openings as soon as you finally do start to move away.

Another is to get used to running the tractor out of fuel when you shut it off for the day so that the carburator can't gum up and will remain in working adjustment while empty of all gasoline. Doing it this way prevents so much hassle with the fuel system it is the most important thing you can do to save your sanity. Clearing out a gummed carb is one of the most finicky things one can do with these tractors - avoid it at all cost by prevention. I was once "down and out" for this very reason for a full three days before I spotted the plugged hole - if it were not for full sunlight and holding the carb right in my face I'd still be at it.

That's about it for my list of new guy tips. Welcome to the fold. Mine's a 44 A too but thank goodness it's an electric start. My 39 B gave me all the hand starting I EVER want to do. It IS fun to pull them over have them pop away - I jest.
 
I have the most luck when I keep the throttle cut back to about a third.
When I shut my A down, I turn off the gas and as it shuts down the gov always opens the carb wide open. This stays open in that position even if the throttle lever is in the idle position when it dies. Might check that before starting next time.
Good Luck
 
Congratulations and welcome to the JD club.

Don't have a hand-start A, but here's what works on "<a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/JamesLHowell#p/u/54/CIjNH2ghdTA">Uncle Earl</a>" our 39B.

Hope this helps and enjoy your tractor.
 
I have a 45 A that is a hand start. I agree with most of what everybody has told you. Except I found that when I shut mine off I kill it with the choke instead of shutting the gas off and running the carb out of feul. Then when I go to start it I give it about 1/2 choke and it always pops on the 2nd or 3rd crank. I then shut the choke off and it'll fire up on the 4th or 5th crank. I've come to learn that every tractor has its own personality so find what works best for you and stick with that.
 
This works well on my 35 A. Roll the flywheel up to the compression stroke, close the choke, rock the flywheel back and forth up against the beginning of the compression stroke a few times times, open the choke, crank it over the compression stroke and it's running.

Mark
 
The other responders are correct. No two tractors start the same, and if you rebuild the carb, install a new carb, or retune the tractor, it probably will behave totally different again. Our "44A hand start had a new carb when we bought it, and someone set it up perfectly. Usually starts on the first, or at worst second pull, even in below freezing temps. But it really guzzles gas when working. Our 42H can be a real pain to start, and our 32GP has a mind of its own.
 
My hand-start '42 D seems to be a good starter cold, but gets harder when warm - apparently this is the usual. I turn it with the releases open and as soon as it spits fuel out, the next time over the top it goes. It doesn't need much remaining compression (near top of stroke), just over the top and the mag fires. It takes some time to learn the best way for any particular tractor. My AR has electric, but doesn't get the crowd at our show that starting the D does. Maybe the dual stacks help with the crowd interest ? - RonMC
My old iron and others
 
I don't have an "A" but my hand-start "D" is really easy:

Open fuel shut-off,
Open Release valves,
Full Choke
Throttle about 1/2
Roll over until fuel vapour spits out of release valves,
Open Choke (no choke at all)
Roll slowly thru top-dead centre.
Starts on 1 to 3 rolls.
Close release on flywheel side immeditely.

Regards,
JGC
 
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