Hard Starting 8N

[JDHDon]

Recently my "50 8N (front mount distributor) has been hard starting. It cranks and cranks, but just won"t kick over. However, when I use the "engine start" mode on my roll around battery charger, it kicks right off. I"ve done this several times and there definitely seems to be a pattern. I"ve fully charged the battery but it takes the extra punch from the charger to start it up. Any suggestions on the cause of this problem?

 

[Bruce (VA)]

It is important for you to tell us if your tractor has a 6 volt or 12 volt electrical system. The troubleshooting is different based upon the configuration of your engine.

Chances are you have a weak battery and/or connections/cables. You need battery current to turn the starter over AND fire the plugs. If you pull start it, it will probably start fine that way.

See tip # 49 at the link below for checking the battery.

Please be sure to post back & let us know what the fix was. We all learn something if you tell us what worked!
50 Tips

 

[JDHDon]

It's a 6v..front mount distributor.

 

[Dunk]

When it does this 2 things, and 2 simple ways to check them.

1: Instead of turning the switch on, jumper the two terminals together, if you still have the problem, it probably wasn't the switch.

2: Use the end of your pocket knife, or another jumper wire to short the terminals on the resistor. Don't let it run long with the terminals on the resistor shorted, as it could damage your coil.

Now we have progressed all the way to the coil troubleshooting, or at least should have, if nothing has been adulterated.

Still don't ignore what Bruce said about ALL wire connections being bright, clean, and tight.

The crimped on battery cable ends can even corrode on the inside and cause a poor connection, 6v tractors HAVE to have the large cables, not the small ones like 12v cars.

 

[souNdguy]

How's the spark look when cranking over?

How's yer compression?

Low compression is aided by faster starter-spinning.. .. battery boosters usually spin the starter faster..

soundguy

 

[JDHDon]

I will check out the compression tonight. The connections all appear tight and clean, but I will check that out also. The ground cable is the braided type.

 

[souNdguy]

Post back your comp numbers.

Comp tests are best done on a warmed engine, first a dry test, then a wet test, 5 puffs minimum.. but many of us roll it over till the gauge stops rising. many people like to note what the very first puf provides as well.

throttle wide open, ignition off, fuel off... some even slip the air tube off the carb.. etc.

post the results.

soundguy

 

[Anonymous-0]

Compression on cold engine: 1 - 4: 105, 100,100,90 psi. Too late to try on warmed engine, but I cleaned and wire brushed with dremel wire brush all of the connections (ground to chassis, battery cables, starter solenoid on top of starter, and removed and cleaned started frame face and flywheel flange face. Started it up twice with no problem. I think maybe it's gonna work. I'll try again tomorrow night with after it's sat for awhile. Thanks for all the suggestions. The ground to chassis was pretty clean, but maybe a little loose. Battery cables were clean and tight, but wire brushed anyway. Starter flange and flywheel flange was a little oily with a little paint on the main casting. Cleaned and wire brushed eveything.

 

[souNdguy]

Loose and painted is bad..

Your dry numbers alone are virtually useless without wet numbers.. though at least you are making minimum compression specs.

If she started good 2x after the TLC.. you may have found the problem.

soundguy

 

[souNdguy]

Loose and painted is bad..

Your dry numbers alone are virtually useless without wet numbers.. though at least you are making minimum compression specs.

If she started good 2x after the TLC.. you may have found the problem.

soundguy

 

[JDHDon]

Not sure what you mean by dry and wet test...only way I know to do a compression test is to remove spark plug, screw in gauge, turn it over with no fuel, no ignition. If it starts up this evening, i'll leave good enough alone.

 

[souNdguy]

Dry and wet test lets you compair numbers to find out the condition of rings VS valves.

you run the standard dry set like you spoke of, then put a tablespoon of oil in each cyl and run the test again.. a reading that comes up on a wet test indicates the comp loss is in the rings.. as the oil seals the rings. Comp #'s that don't come up any mean the comp loss is in the valves, as the oil don't reach the valves to seal them.

Still.. your dry numbers at least meet the minimums, so if it works ok.. i wouldn't fudge with it too much.

soundguy

soundguy

 

[JDHDon]

Thanks for the clarification...never too old to learn something new. She started right up tonight so I"m going to leave good enough alone for a few days. Thanks.

 

[souNdguy]

It don't take much to make these old girls unhappy some times. Glad you found it with a minimum of hassle. And yes.. I agree.. for most things.. if it ain't broke.. don't fix it (yet).

soundguy