Has anyone here driven a well point??

[Anonymous-0]

I,m not sure this the correct site to be on, but I,m trying to drive a 2" sand point, and have all sorts of problems. Need some pointers & any advice you have from experience. I,m 23ft down,with most wells in my area at @ 30-40ft range. Things just keep braking!!!

 

[gregger]

we have done it with a steel post driver -- we only had to go 12' -- 30 / 40 feet is a long way -- is it all sand ? that deep might be rocks or hard clay - my 2 cents

 

[Anonymous-0]

if you can put a tee on top and hook up a garden hose that should help, also trun pipe to the right while pumping water down it, never to the left, as it can come unscrewed

 

[rrlund]

Yes,I've got two big weights out in the tool shed for it. Are you using a driving cap in the top? There's always a hard pan just before you hit water.

 

[tim -wi]

Electric drivers can be rented make the job much easier and faster. also along with driving cap you should use drive couplings. These are stronger than standard couplings,keep turning things clockwise to keep joints tight.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I've done a couple.
Awways use "drive couplings" to connect the pipes (they are stronger). Use a drive cap. turn clockwise, pour water down pipes, I made a pipe cap with air coupling and blew compressed air down hole to help clear sand/dirt.
Usually a hand pump will not pull water beyond 25' (actually 22')

 

[Heat Houser]

You can try the link below.
Sand points

 

[Anonymous-0]

another thing to try is, don,t hit it as hard as you can, I don,t know what you are driving through but sometimes less is best what the old timers told Me when I started to drill wells was if your going down your going right. 30 to 40 ft is a long ways to drive pipe by hand. let us know how you make out.

 

[old harv]

The oldtimers in my area put in sand points down about 200 feet. I still use one that was put in during the late 30s. They welded two bolts in a V shape to the end of the first pipe, and used water pressure from a belt driven pump they called a bull pump driven by a Farmall A, and they just kept adding pipes as it went down. When the pump suddenly ran easy, they knew they hit the water. I know it is that deep because I pushed a 1/2 inch black plastic pipe down my well to flush out accumulated silt, and I measured it when it came out. These wells run from 1 to 5 gallons per minute to the surface just from ground pressure. I would guess flush more water and use less physical strength. If you hit a rock you will be out of luck.

 

[Russ from MN]

Friend of mine had the same problem, chinese pipe!

 

[Mark - IN.]

You bet that you are exactly correct about made in China pipe.

About mid-90's I pulled out a 1" shallow well that had two 5' sections and the well head, so was very shallow, but the vein was bad rusty. I drove in a new 2" well, four sections of 5' pipe and a new well head. It was murder, but since the well was in the basement through the concrete floor, thats where I put the new well back as opposed to digging and driving ouside and then coming in trough the wall. I used a 100 lb weight welded onto an old axle. The axle went into the pipe and I had a coupling that took the beating of me raising and slamming the weight down onto the pipe to drive it. When it got low enough, then I'd take that coupling off, put on a compression coupling that had tapered threads inside, tightened the two pipes together, put the beatup coupling back on the top pipe, and drove until I had the well head and all four sections of pipe driven into a new vein that wasn't rusty water.

Did not have to use made in China pipe back then. I don't even know if was any made in China pipe back then. About 2004 I went to help my brother drive a new well and had the same problem as this fella...pipe kept breaking right at the threads. The next day I went to a plumbing supply with my brother and got some good stuff unlike the cheap made in China stuff from Menards, and we drove him a new well.

I will bet that you are right...made in China pipe, and or isn't driving it right.

Mark

 

[Jack345]

Take a look at this company I've heard good stuff about them.

www.borzit.com

 

[Dave Sherburne NY]

The guys who say Chinese Pipe are right. I tried one last year. used drive caps drive couplings stainless drive points. The works everything just kept breaking. You do have to keep turning the cap in the tighten direction after every blow to the pipe. Google " WASHING IN A WELL POINT" you might try that.

 

[OldFarmTractor]

I love this website....
Drilling Your own Well

 

[lenray]

I have put 20 plus in. Have 40-50 ft. of clay and then goes into water sand and gravel.
I hand auger them all--use an old bit that they used in making those old barns with the wood pegs.
It wallers a hole about 2 in. in dia. can go down about 6 in. per shot with the auger. Park my big dump truck by the hole so as to prop my auger pipe. When ya get down near 40-50 ft. have to take pipe apart a couple times per pull.
By augering I know exactly where the water is.
Next use my backhoe as a tripod with a pulley and a very heavy driving weight and run a rope from the pulley down to my ford with rear belt pulley.
I can lift and drop that heavy weight near 100 hits per minute with the little ford 9n that my dad bought new in 42 and has never spent a night outside in all those years.
I replaced the ford paper pulley with a small rim so the rope will not run off---the only problem is keeping the rope cool.
These are 2 in. wells.
It takes a little time , but I am a geezer and have time.

 

[bc]

Hello Lenray. I am trying to figure out your pile driver set up with your backhoe tripod. How is set up so it lifts and drops the weights? Or maybe show a picture of it. It almost sounds like you are using a rope and cathead setup but I don't see how you would get 100 hits a minute if you are manually pulling and releasing the rope.

I'd like to rig up a pile driver for fence posts. I'm thinking about using a hay bale elevator, cutting the middle out, and then weld a bracket for the weight to slide on but I'm open to a better idea. The bale hooks on the chain would pick up the weight and then it would drop when the hook goes over the top. Thanks.