Hat Box Resolutions

[Tall T]

When I had liquid weeping from my rims I assumed tube leaks but I've since come to a different hypothesis. The hatbox rings
fill with not just moisture but get water in them and eventually it rusts through on the tube side of the rims. I brazed up a few small holes on the back side of the hatbox channels.

My tubes have been sitting around for weeks holding air, but granted they aren't under much pressure, so maybe I don't have tube leaks at all. But my tires were on the flat-ish side and seemed to be getting worse. I was worried about the cracking old rubber while they sat flat.

Anyway, they are all repaired and primed and marine enameled on the insides -- I know I should have used grey primer for the visible side and I will. I'm going to drill one hole in each hatbox channels to fit rubber grommet plugs that I have so as to be able to drain any water out of the channels as a routine service. I might also flood the channels with my favorite rust fluid while rolling the tire when they are back on the tractor and still bone dry.

I realize that a grommet could impede the wheel centers depending on which side of the ring they are mounted so for now I'll put the hole and plug on the side I don't expect to be fixing the center to.

Terry

 

[Royse]

Looks great Terry.
I've never found the color of primer to matter other than
making it easier to see where I have been when I paint.
If the primer shows through the paint, the paint is too thin.
I agree with your assessment on the hat rims.
They gather dirt and moisture, then rust out.
A pin hole might let moisture out without impeding the center.
Of course that would get plugged and need to be cleaned.

 

[Tall T]

Thanks Royse,

Well then maybe I won't have to bother putting grey primer over the red oxide, before the grey paint. I wasn't sure why there was this seeming "necessity" to go light primer under light paint for the sake of "hiding" and I wondered how it could possibly affect the hue or if it could.

I put some time into that center seam that had separated a little due to rust between. I got rust out, then flooded it with marine then a while later, body-hammered a rounded edge over every inch of it so that only a rounded edge would contact the tube. So now I don't think I really need to do the duct tape thing after all.

Cheers,
T

 

[TJ in KY]

Looks real good. Thanks for posting. I have a set am needing to work on soon. What is your "Favorite rust fluid"??

 

[Tall T]

Thanks,

Amsoil MP.
Try some and i guarantee it will blow you away. I've only ever owned and taken apart 50's vehicles and this beats anything I've ever tried and the encredible end result after penetrating the rust and after the wet carrier evaporates, is that it leaves a dry stable oil film that never oxidizes; i.e., never gets sticky or gummy. I used to sell cases of it to Lock and safe companies, big bike shops and to mechanics -- all of whom came back for more.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/cleaners-and-protectants/mp-metal-protector/

Check your local phone book for "Amsoil Dealers".

Cheers,
T

P.S.
The best way, at least the quickest way, to clean out the holes would probably be by sand blasting, but i got tired of waiting for a reply from a friend re. his blaster.

Otherwise I'd recommend a narrow chisel -- hammered from both sides of the rim to chip out the thick scale. I also used a coarse square file. I used a cut off wheel on the file to leave me 4 sharp edges for scraping. I also put a sharpened hook on the rat-tailed end of the file to get at the four corners in each bolt pocket. Your blow gun at the ready is good too so you can always see what still has to be done.