Head stud torque spec?

[RedWhiteandBlueWoods]

So I'm about ready to put the head on my C135 Swapped Super C and I have a question. I got head studs for it because I couldn't find headbolts and studs are generally just better. So, my question is: Do the studs themselves have to be torqued to a certain spec within the block?

 

[Janicholson]

So I'm about ready to put the head on my C135 Swapped Super C and I have a question. I got head studs for it because I couldn't find headbolts and studs are generally just better. So, my question is: Do the studs themselves have to be torqued to a certain spec within the block?

No. just a light coat of anti-seize, and clean threads Male and Female. They need to be bottomed out, but not torqued. Jim

 

[rustred]

So I'm about ready to put the head on my C135 Swapped Super C and I have a question. I got head studs for it because I couldn't find headbolts and studs are generally just better. So, my question is: Do the studs themselves have to be torqued to a certain spec within the block?

Use 2 nuts on the studs and snug them up with a wrench say 20 lb pull. Don’t leave them hand tight. Use a good thread Sealant , my choice is blue lock tite. Guaranteed. And easily removed when the time comes. Them other sealants don’t last and things get rusted.

 

[560Dennis]

I run a 1/2 four fluted flt bottom tap down all the stud threads in block . That way your not torque on encrusted contam . i spray brake cleaner into the tapped holes leveled and wait 24 hours , I’m not in a hurry , I check the levels in block the next day. Vacuum it out, retap, spray brake cleaner and vacuum it out . I put light coating 30 wt oil on stud . I set the studs all the same height with verni caliper So the nuts have same engagement for torque down .
Torque to spec , I think that yours is 80 , check manual on that . Start up and run 30 minutes .recheck torque,
i recheck torque after 20 to 30 days .

 

[showcrop]

If you got ARPs studs then you have the special moly lube for the nuts. Bolt torque is usually dry, and any time you lube them you need to increase the torque. You need to research that out.

 

[timcasbolt]

So I'm about ready to put the head on my C135 Swapped Super C and I have a question. I got head studs for it because I couldn't find headbolts and studs are generally just better. So, my question is: Do the studs themselves have to be torqued to a certain spec within the block?

If you torque the studs into the block there is a chance you could pull up a thread above the surface of the head gasket and give you uneven torque and potentially a blown head gasket. I apply Indian Head shellac compound to the threads and screw them down finger tight.

 

[wore out]

If you got ARPs studs then you have the special moly lube for the nuts. Bolt torque is usually dry, and any time you lube them you need to increase the torque. You need to research that out.

POSSIBLY you meant to say lubed fasteners need LESS torque?

 

[showcrop]

POSSIBLY you meant to say lubed fasteners need LESS torque

Yes, Thanks!

 

[RedWhiteandBlueWoods]

Alright, I'm getting a lot of conflicting answers. I have red locktite. So would red locktite and hand tight work?
Edit: looked more online, even ARP says to just hand tighten them. I got the studs from Stiener, that's where I've been finding most of the parts.

 

[4play]

Yes, hand tight,then just verify all of them bottomed out, Most head bolts threads should be lubricated with engine oil and the torque spec considers that, I don't know of any that call for installing dry. I say most because there's probably something out there that calls for dry, that someone will argue with. Thread sealant is not needed unless the threads go through a water jacket, most use a typical thread sealer, but loctite seals threads too, and red is fine to use.

 

[rustred]

Alright, I'm getting a lot of conflicting answers. I have red locktite. So would red locktite and hand tight work?
Edit: looked more online, even ARP says to just hand tighten them. I got the studs from Stiener, that's where I've been finding most of the parts.

Red locktite is the stronger stuff. Many times it takes heat to remove once it is used. Blue stuff is your friend. The blue stuff seals and is easy for removing as I stated And no not just hand tight. Snug them down as I was saying. It don’t take much. You don’t know if doing it by hand the stud is seated to the last thread. Might take another 1/2 turn. Just a slight pull with a small 6” pipe wrench is good too.

 

[used red MN]

Use 2 nuts on the studs and snug them up with a wrench say 20 lb pull. Don’t leave them hand tight. Use a good thread Sealant , my choice is blue lock tite. Guaranteed. And easily removed when the time comes. Them other sealants don’t last and things get rusted.

I would 2nd this sealer or blue Loctite if it goes in to a water jacket. Tighten to 15-20 fl lbs.

 

[RedWhiteandBlueWoods]

Lotta conflicting answers here. Everywhere I look online says hand tight. I've threaded the studs in dry (for a tap, because the tap I have doesnt reach the bottom) and taken them out, and I've been able to shake the whole tractor without the stud coming loose. What would be the difference if the stud was torqued or not?

 

[JIM MN]

I second and third to put a sealant on the stud threads going into the block. Will seal threads that could leak coolant from the water jacket? Lub the stud nut and torque.

 

[timcasbolt]

Lotta conflicting answers here. Everywhere I look online says hand tight. I've threaded the studs in dry (for a tap, because the tap I have doesnt reach the bottom) and taken them out, and I've been able to shake the whole tractor without the stud coming loose. What would be the difference if the stud was torqued or not?

Please refer to post #6 where I explained why you don't torque studs into a block.

 

[RedWhiteandBlueWoods]

Well, whatever works best ain't gonna matter for awhile. I found a piece of piston #1 in the oil pan. Now I need to find an original firecrater for a C135. I'm not surprised it was still running, it's just one of the flanges that broke but it still sucks.

 

[rustred]

The skirt broke right off so those cylinders must be worn right out.

 

[rustred]

The piston is rocking in the bore.

 

[RedWhiteandBlueWoods]

The skirt broke right off so those cylinders must be worn right out.

I think she's been broken awhile. A rebuild is probably the plan with new sleeves & rings and a new #1 piston.