Help identifying this auger

[bluegrassrulez1]

I purchased this auger about 3 years ago for
$125. It has done a great job for it's poor condition, but now I am trying to make repairs to it and give it new life. Does anyone recognize this style of gearbox of these cast markings? 22-211 and 22-139 are the casting numbers on the clamp that adjusts the three-point mounting. It is yellow like Danuser but I haven't seen any like this style. Thank you!

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

What kinds of repairs are you looking to make? Doesn't look broken to me.

EDIT: Oh ew, never mind. I got a closer look at that input shaft. Looks pretty chowdered. That looks like an overrunning clutch though.. I wonder if it can be removed to expose a clean shaft underneath. Finding that part may be difficult.

The leak is easily fixed with a new seal. Seals are generic. All you need is the old seal. It probably has a number on it that you can cross-reference at a bearing and seal shop, or even at NAPA.

Odds are knowing brand and model won't do you much good anyway, as it's old enough that if the manufacturer didn't go out of business decades ago, they long since dropped support for it.

 

[Farmalldude45]

I purchased this auger about 3 years ago for
$125. It has done a great job for it's poor condition, but now I am trying to make repairs to it and give it new life. Does anyone recognize this style of gearbox of these cast markings? 22-211 and 22-139 are the casting numbers on the clamp that adjusts the three-point mounting. It is yellow like Danuser but I haven't seen any like this style. Thank you!

The input part looks like an automotive differential. Maybe some parts available from the auto manufacturer if you are able to id it. Bearings are also mostly generic, but there are instances when very low usage has resulted in certain ones being discontinued. Thus, if gears are in useable condition, you should be able to locate everything you need to repair your gearbox. Good luck.

 

[bluegrassrulez1]

What kinds of repairs are you looking to make? Doesn't look broken to me.

EDIT: Oh ew, never mind. I got a closer look at that input shaft. Looks pretty chowdered. That looks like an overrunning clutch though.. I wonder if it can be removed to expose a clean shaft underneath. Finding that part may be difficult.

The leak is easily fixed with a new seal. Seals are generic. All you need is the old seal. It probably has a number on it that you can cross-reference at a bearing and seal shop, or even at NAPA.

Odds are knowing brand and model won't do you much good anyway, as it's old enough that if the manufacturer didn't go out of business decades ago, they long since dropped support for it.

I have a piece I machined to slide over the end of the shaft. I will am planning on welding it to the collar and connecting it to the pto shaft. I have attached the piece I made.
The brand is more of a curiosity for my general knowledge. I haven't seen one with the differential this design.

The issue I have had with it... someone welded the pto shaft to the gearbox. They welded the auger bit to the output shaft. It is a bit of a mess, but the gearbox seem very solid.

 

[caterpillar guy]

I think what you are seeing, that looks like the auger is welded to the output shaft, is actually the connecting coupler. That would have either a bolt /pin through it, to hold it on and drive it. Or a key set up inside to the coupler driving the auger. I would cut those welds and see what is under that portion to see if there is something better to drive the input shaft with. Other wise I think your putting god iron after bad so to speak with the condition of that stub sticking out there.

 

[bluegrassrulez1]

I think what you are seeing, that looks like the auger is welded to the output shaft, is actually the connecting coupler. That would have either a bolt /pin through it, to hold it on and drive it. Or a key set up inside to the coupler driving the auger. I would cut those welds and see what is under that portion to see if there is something better to drive the input shaft with. Other wise I think your putting god iron after bad so to speak with the condition of that stub sticking out there.

It is welded. I took the shear bolt out when I first got it. Have drill probably 75 holes waiting for it to break loose. There are small tack welds all around where it should slide. Looks like someone got a new welder and decided to go to town on it. They even welded the hanger arms in place for some reason. It has done all I needed it to do with little investment.

The input shaft, I figure if the pto shaft was able to turn the auger without issue with their less than stellar welds, this sleeve properly welded will do just fine.