Help... Kohler K341

[corelokt]

I have several (3) machines with Kohler K series engines.
None run for crap. I've tried multiple carbs. I've tried multiple coils. I've tried multiple condensers. I have replaced the points. They have good compression. I'm out of ideas. Strong spark.
Is there any replacement engine out there?
I don't need PTO power.
These are Cub Cadet and Snapper machines.
Lastly, WTF, seriously, no factory spec replacement engines?
How many of these were made, come on, make a suitable replacement.

 

[kencombs]

There are some small engine dealers that sell kits to replace old Cub Cadet and Snapper engines. Most use a Honda, Kawasaki, Kohler Command or B&S engine. The K series don't meet current emissions standards, so they can't be reproduced. That's why all the new engines are OHV.

small engine warehouse is one such vendor. Here is an example listing:
https://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/356447-cub1650-r3

All that said, there is no reason a K series with good compression cannot be made to run well. There are thousands still doing so. What symptoms are you experiencing.

 

[timcasbolt]

Here's a writeup I did 5 years ago when I installed a Predator 420 into a John Deere 110: https://www.wfmachines.com/threads/...e-fender.134709/?post_id=1070114#post-1070114

Here's one 2 years ago with an engine very similar to a Predator 212: https://www.wfmachines.com/threads/john-deere-110-repower.142839/?post_id=1165425#post-1165425

You've already learned what I did about the availability of good quality replacement tuneup parts, so I won't go into that.

A Cub Cadet engine mounts 90 degrees from a John Deere 110, so it may be a challenge to install a Honda GX style engine. hth

 

[wore out]

I have several (3) machines with Kohler K series engines.
None run for crap. I've tried multiple carbs. I've tried multiple coils. I've tried multiple condensers. I have replaced the points. They have good compression. I'm out of ideas. Strong spark.
Is there any replacement engine out there?
I don't need PTO power.
These are Cub Cadet and Snapper machines.
Lastly, WTF, seriously, no factory spec replacement engines?
How many of these were made, come on, make a suitable replacement.

There's no reason a K341 that's not slap worn out can't be made to run well.

Have you checked spark timing, either statically, or better yet, running, with a timing light?

As to the availability of OEM replacement engines you can thank the enviro nazis for that, they squashed flathead engines a long time ago.

 

[Loosehandle]

I have several (3) machines with Kohler K series engines.
None run for crap. I've tried multiple carbs. I've tried multiple coils. I've tried multiple condensers. I have replaced the points. They have good compression. I'm out of ideas. Strong spark.
Is there any replacement engine out there?
I don't need PTO power.
These are Cub Cadet and Snapper machines.
Lastly, WTF, seriously, no factory spec replacement engines?
How many of these were made, come on, make a suitable replacement.

I have 3 K series, all are easy to work on and very durable. I would suggest that having 3 units that run the same must be something in common thats been done to them.

 

[dhermesc]

I have several (3) machines with Kohler K series engines.
None run for crap. I've tried multiple carbs. I've tried multiple coils. I've tried multiple condensers. I have replaced the points. They have good compression. I'm out of ideas. Strong spark.
Is there any replacement engine out there?
I don't need PTO power.
These are Cub Cadet and Snapper machines.
Lastly, WTF, seriously, no factory spec replacement engines?
How many of these were made, come on, make a suitable replacement.

You say none of them run well - what is the issue? I love the KXX1 series as they are cheap and easy to rebuild unless you have completely worn them out with multiple rebuilds. I have a K321 that's been rebuilt once approaching 2000 hours of use in a 1450.

 

[T.R.K.]

What I hear is frustration. What you need to find is someone in your area who can help you figure out where the problem(s) are.

 

[Brian G. NY]

What I hear is frustration. What you need to find is someone in your area who can help you figure out where the problem(s) are.

A agree.....I have several Ford (Jake built) tractors with the K-Series engines that have given me years and years of trouble free service.
I will say though, that the only ones I have acquired with "blown" engines were 16HP (K-341 Models). Both had the balance gears exit the crankcase leaving big holes. I am guessing the prior owners were pushing the RPMs. Neither of those engines look like they had been maintained properly either.

 

[corelokt]

I'm going to check out the timing. I've done everything else. I took my time putting points in it.

 

[corelokt]

Still sucks. Runs fine at idle. Won't take wot. Points replaced. Timing set with a bore scope on the marks. Coil and condenser replaced. Two carbs tried.
Gap tried at .18
Now what?

 

[kencombs]

Gas supply? Internal screen in tank, fuel filter, fuel pump ? Timing set to open points at the S?

Lots of thing we don't know about the particular application.

 

[corelokt]

 

[corelokt]

Swapped points, trying to use timing light. Lost spark. Done with it for now.

 

[corelokt]

I'm going to add a clear filter just to monitor fuel flow. I have new points and condenser otw.

 

[kencombs]

I don't think that pulse fuel pump was original. Have you confirmed that it is pumping? I'm not sure where one would hook the pulse to the crankcase on a K series normally. I've done one with a fitting brazed to the filler tube. I do know that a bad crankcase breather can weaken the pulse enough to stop that type of pump from working.

 

[corelokt]

It is connected to a block off plate for the OEM pump.

 

[BradCNY]

Definitely an after market fuel pump, they are driving off cam lobe. I would suspect that. Those engines were good, were used on every thing up until about 1985. If you need a fuel pump ,use an electric one. Hard to watch fuel flow through a clear filter.

 

[corelokt]

I never could find an electric fuel pump that didn't overpower the float. I tried OEM rebuild kits to no avail. This worked best. I'll connect a vacuum pump in the next week and report back.

 

[kencombs]

I never could find an electric fuel pump that didn't overpower the float. I tried OEM rebuild kits to no avail. This worked best. I'll connect a vacuum pump in the next week and report back.

Those pumps don't work on a straight vacuum, but by the crankcase pulse created by the piston movement. If the crankcase breather system is defective, the pulse won't be strong enough to drive it. they can get clogged so that the little flapper doesn't seal well or even break after years of 'flapping'. In their original use the hose to the crankcase fitting will get hard, crack and leak also.

Electrics are available with about 2psi output. Most outdoor power parts places have them. But, your setup should be fine if everything is in good shape. Removing the the gas output line while it's running should tell if it's working at all.

 

[T.R.K.]

Some thoughts:
-Try bypassing that fuel filter with the water trap. Sometimes the pulse type fuel pump can't pull enough fuel through an automotive filter to satisfy the engine's requirements.
-I have no problems with the pulse pump connected where the old lever operated pump was mounted. I do that occasionally myself and it always seems to work better than the oem replacement pump does. (At those times, I wonder if the real problem is a worn lobe on the camshaft .) You can check the fuel supply from the pulse pump, just disconnect the hose to the carburetor, turn the key and see if it pushes a good pulse of fuel out every time the engine cranks over. Be sure to keep it away from the spark plug and plug wire for obvious reasons.
-If it won't run at w.o.t., try backing out the main mixture needle.
-If there is a tube connecting the crankcase breather with the air cleaner, see if it makes a difference if it is disconnected. I recall one engine with so much blowby it was screwing up the intake fuel mix.