Help me identify my dad's tractor, please

Nicole G

New User
My father passed away unexpectedly, and I"m trying to get things in order. Among the tasks, I need to figure out a value for the tractor he used to plow the driveway.

I seem to remember him saying it was a 1948, but I"m not certain. Can anyone here identify the tractor from these images?


Bonus questions:
How would I go about finding a reputable repair person? It worked last winter, but now it won"t start. I suspect it is the battery, but don"t feel confident enough to tackle it, I"d hate to do damage.

Are repair manuals available? Is there one that is better than others? I"d love to learn how to work on the beast, but I would need detailed information, as my job was always just to hold things.

What does 8N, 2N etc indicate?

Thank you so much.
Nicole
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First I'd like to offer my condolences for your loss. Then I'd recommend you take a look for the serial number on the left hand side (as you drive it) of the engine block, its a flat area with numbers stamped on it, look hard and you should see letters and numbers that will tell us not only what model you have but also the year it aws built. on another note none of the pictures came out when i viewed your post. post back and let us know.
 
There are manuals available from this site, YT. I suggest the operators manual and the I&T FO4 shop manual. 9, 2, 8N -- the numbers 9,2, and 8 indicated the first year of production. So 9N was introduced in '39; the 2N in '42, and the 8N in '48. For more information see John Smith's web site. You have a 1948 8N.
John Smith
 
Nicole---where is the tractor located? It should not take much to get the tractor running again...maybe if someone is close by they could help you get it running.....

Sale price for a non-running vs. running 8N is at least a $1000-$2000 difference, so even if you have to put a few bucks into it to get it up and running again, it would be worth it.

Tim
 
Nicole,

It appears to be an 8N with a front mount distributor. I have a 48 8N and the oil filler tube in your pictures is a lot longer than mine. My oil filler tube is about half as long as your.

In your third picture down, look at the fuel bowl (glass bowl). Just below and to the right is a 1" by 3" rectagular spot. That is where the serial number will be. As others have said, it may be hard to read with paint on it. With the serial number we can determine the year. Also, if you look under the rear axle housing you should see a date cast into it. Your tractor would have been built a few weeks or so after that date. Look at the dates on both housings to get an accurate starting point.

Danny
 
Nicole.......my condolences on the loss of yer father. Looks like you have the "braggin' rights" to an early 1948 4-speed 8N tractor. Engine s/n: is weakly hand-stamped on 1x4-flat boss under the flathead gasket seam. Look down from yer glass bowl fuel shut-off valve.

You could have a rebuilt 9N/2N engine inplace of the original 8N engine. (they're interchangeable) 8N s/n start 8N; 9N/2N s/n start 9N. 9N/2N's have 3-speed trannys, 8N's have 4-speed trannys.

ALWAYS turn yer glass fuel-valve OFF at the end of the day, OK??? Gravity NEVER SLEEPS and it will drain yer fuel tank dry and fill up yer 6-qt engine oil pan with non-lubricating gasoline. BAD NEWS.

As for manuals, we hardily recommend the I&T FO-4 manual ($25, cheap) It even has pictures for the tractor challenged. Readily available at most agricultural emporiums, Yesterdays Tractors, Ford/New-Holland dealers. Heck, even my local (byte my tongue) John Deere dealer sell it.

While traditionally, the 8N was painted red-belly and gray tin; its yer tractor, paint it enny color that pleases you. 'nuttin' wrong with gray and blue.

It'll take new points for yer 4-nipple frontmount distributor; NEW FRESH GASOLINE; well charged 6-volt positive ground battery; (thats the flatbraid ground) Clean, bright and tite is the electrical "mantra" on old tractors.

A non-running, non-rustbucket 8N-Tractor is worth $1000 (maybe) A good running 8N-tractor with virtually NEW ag-bar tires can be worth $2500. (new tires are worth $250 ea) So its worth some time and money to gitt'chur fathers tractor running. Tractor mechanics generally cost $75/hr. Ask for estimate for on-site tune-up (call) otherwize you'll haffta flatbed $$$ yer old Ford convertible to the mechanic.

As always, once you've found us, we're willing to answer the dumbest, silliest, stupidest questions. But we gotta know first-off what model year and battery voltage........HTH and welcome, Dell
 

I am sorry to hear about your father.

What you have is an 8N with a front-mount distributor. 8N is what model of tractor it is. The front-mount distributor is important because they made 8Ns with both front mount and later side-mount distributors, and some of the parts are different.

For a manual, the best repair manual is the I&T FO-4 repair manual. You will also want an operator's manual for it, as well. Both are available from Yesterday's Tractors. The link to the manuals page for the 8N is here.

Keep us posted.
 
What you have lookes like a 1947-1949 8N tractor. If you remove the paint on the engine block next to the oil filter housing you will find the serial number. Also, the sheet meatel is from a 8N ford, so if it says 2N, like on mine, its probably just the casting numbers that never changed or were replaced. If you live around Eastern iowa, I can take a look at the tractor or restore the engine.
 
Nicole:
Sorry for your loss. There are 100's of folks on this board that can help you with your '48 8N, probably some pretty close to where you live, BUT you gotta tell us where you're from first.
 
Nicole, sorry about your dad. As far as finding an honest mechanic that would depend on your area. I know where I'm at there several real good ones who are fair and honest with both women and men. I also know a few (I would not do business with em) who will rip a woman off in a heartbeat. Local one here charged my mom for years for reapirs he didn't do till I caught him at it while home on leave. That guy was a "good christian man" according to my mom who attended her church.

Ask around in here, you may find someone local from this site that will help you out with this.

Rick
 
You guys are amazing!

I just can't thank you all enough. I've looked through and ordered the manuals, I'm excited to have a new project. I don't intend on selling it, I just need a fair value so that I can pay my brother half, as he has no interest in keeping it. For years I've wanted to so more than "Hold the wrench, Nicole", so this seems like a good place to start.

We live in Michigan, outside Ann Arbor. One of our neighbors recommended a repair guy, but he seemed a bit sleazy over the phone, he told me it was unlikely that it was fixable, but that he would buy it for scrap. If someone has a local resource, I would be thankful, but really you've all done so much already.

Again, many deep and sincere thanks. What an awesome community you all have here. You rock.
 
Hi, you indicate that your intention is to keep yor father's tractor and you want establish a value for the estate so you can settle with your brother. So it would appear you are willing to take over the tractor "as is where is", so the value would be for a fairly straight 8N that doesn't start. That will lower the price you will have to settle for, but you accept the risk as to costs to get it going. My guess is that since your dad used it to push snow in Michigan it won't be frozen because it had anti-freeze in it, so likely an ignition tune, fresh gas and a good live battery you'll be away. And that shouldn't take $200, after that you can spend until it feels good to make a show stopper! Welcome to the old tractor bug. jack
 
Hi, you indicate that your intention is to keep yor father's tractor and you want establish a value for the estate so you can settle with your brother. So it would appear you are willing to take over the tractor "as is where is", so the value would be for a fairly straight 8N that doesn't start. That will lower the price you will have to settle for, but you accept the risk as to costs to get it going. My guess is that since your dad used it to push snow in Michigan it won't be frozen because it had anti-freeze in it, so likely an ignition tune, fresh gas and a good live battery you'll be away. And that shouldn't take $200, after that you can spend until it feels good to make a show stopper! Welcome to the old tractor bug. jack
 
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