Help with gandy boxes

[down_right]

So I have just under a dozen (I think 10 or 11) of these old gandy box units, as well as a lot of the mounting brackets, hose/tube/shute bracket that hold the discharge hoses in place, etc (list towards end of post).
I only need to use these for fertilizing maybe 2 acres of research crop plots, so it's not like I have 500 acres I expect to use these for. But I do need to get them working. I have 4 row plots, so they will be mounted likely on a small (homemade) 4 or 5 row diamond bar cultivator


My main questions are:

1) what is the best way to mount these units to achieve my need of working on a 4 row cultivator (# of boxes, placement, which models of box units, what # of discharge shutes/metering units should I use, and how do I place them?)

2) what kind of motor replacement will I need to have enough power to sufficiently apply the fertilizer?

3) how many motors? 1 on each end of the toolbar, or just one really strong motor? What kinda specs should I be looking for?

4) help with decoding the electrical wiring of these types of motors


On the cultivator I have:
- 1 bar for the gauge wheels, self explanatory
- 1 bar for the "main"/large cultivator ditchers/points things on shanks. Might also have smaller ditcher/"shovels" also on shanks (or maybe they're on a separate bar, can't remember)

- 1 bar for more of those small points mounted on shanks. Each row has a total of 2, 1 on each side of the row positioned in a way so that the dirt/bed is opened slightly for side dressing the fertilizer

- 1 bar for the gandy units



Supplies I have:

A) Gandy box units:
1A) Model # S902EM: x4
2A) Model # S901 P: x4
3A) Model # S901EM: x2

B) metering/roll-ie-over-things (attach at bottom of box units:

1B) 1 hole/hose unit: x6
2B) 2 hole/hose unit: x5
3B) 3 hole/hose unit: x2

C) Motors: total of 3 (all need replacements I think) only 1 of them are actual gandy brand motors. From what I remember in trying to lookup serial/etc #s on the motor, they are basically (or literally) just windshield wiper motors

1C) x2 motors that I think originally came off a IHC combine or similar. I think I burnt them up a few years back when I had absolutely ZERO electrical/mechanical know-how knowledge

2C) x1 Gandy brand; The following info is from the motor's body:
>>12v electric motor (2 wire).
>>black wire is negative
>>green wire is positive
>>Drive sprocket on the motor must turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE
>>Model #EM45951

E) a bunch of 5/8" all thread rod, or otherwise hollow pipe/rod of similar size that is used to keep multiple boxes running synchronized off of one motor mounted on the end unit

Not sure if this motor unit is still functional (I still don't really understand how wiring these windshield wiper-type motors work). I don't really grasp the concept of what all the terminals with one letter Alphabet labels mean, or how to connect them properly. I just sort of randomly connected things last time I tried to use these motors until they started turning, then added a switch controller running to inside of my cab. To make it more complicated, I think both types of motors had slightly different labels and terminals

The "IHC" motors have following terminals, in two clustered groups:

Group 1:
H: (from my tinkering, I believe this was the "high"/fast mode

R: No idea. Looking online gives different or vague, conflicting info. Could be relay, reverse, roobiedoobiedoodbiedoo FAIK, ffs

G: Ground? The motor had a green wire from inside the motor connected to this spade terminal

L: No idea, this mightve been one of the terminals that didn't have anything connected to it when I originally got it. As I think now, I wonder if themis L terminal means "Load"? Maybe it's a shot at me, meaning "loser"? Or, "lol (loser)"?!?questionmarkexclaimationpointquestionmark


Group 2: P
General consensus seems to be this is the "Park" terminal. I haven't the faintest idea wtf that means, other than the people who decided on these terms are obviously partake in some serious sadomasochistism

 

[caterpillar guy]

Any Gandy box I ever saw were for applying root worm medication on corn.Not for fertiliazer and don't know if they would work for that. Not saying they wouldn't just never saw anybody do it. they were pretty small for the amount you would use. Most fertilizer boxes are about 500LBS capacity for 2 rows. and on 6 row planter would have a 250 LBS box for one row. I'm not even sure how well the metering would work for that. Insecticide was granular but finer than fertilizer.

 

[paul]

Those are insecticide boxes. So you will have to do some adapting to make them spit out much more volume for fertilizer. Often that does not pay they empty too fast, but for 2 acres it can work out. People do that with the insecticide boxes of JD 7000 planters. It’s a compromise, but I understand.

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Might get some ideas from pics like here, I search for ‘Gandy (model number)’ and I find several series of pics like this, some show drive shafts and such like you will need.

Obviously, you want a box for each row. If you want you could mount 2 per row, and have twice as much fert only need to spin half as fast, but then you have twice as much fabricating to do.

So the question is, what do you want to accomplish, how much fertilizer and what type are you applying? A little over the row, a fair amount off to the side of the row, or a lot 2 inches to the side and 2 inches below, or what?

Good field corn here takes around 50 lbs P, 50 lbs K, and 100-200 lbs of N per acre to get the percent of nutrients needed more or less. It depends on a lot of details, but just saying….

 

[paul]

All these years I hear and see Gandy stuff, and looking at your pics and I see they were/ are manufactured just down the road a few dozen miles from me! Ha. Never realized that.

Paul

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

All these years I hear and see Gandy stuff, and looking at your pics and I see they were/ are manufactured just down the road a few dozen miles from me! Ha. Never realized that.

Paul

They're still there, nestled between the tracks.

Mike

Hopefully the map link works:

Gandy Co.

 

[paul]

They're still there, nestled between the tracks.

Mike

Hopefully the map link works:

Gandy Co.

I have to admit that middle section of that town confuses me, with the river bend and all the roads sort of bending along also and then remixing themselves in a different direction. Saw the old steam engine train near there when that was the closest stop it made to me some years ago.

Cool deal

Paul

 

[rrlund]

You're going to have to learn to calibrate them yourself. Not saying it can't be done, but I don't think anybody else has ever calibrated them for it, so you're on your own. Learn calibration or move on to something that was actually made to apply fertilizer.

 

[paul]

You have looked on the Gandy site I’m sure, and this manual should be helpful to you, I’m sure you already found it.

https://cdn.tilmor.com/documents/2488/Gandy100and45lb-manual.pdf

Paul

 

[Timmycornpicker]

Well, according to the manual Paul linked, you need to determine what distributor wheels are in you units. Looks like with the right wheels, Gandy units can do fertilizer. However, I've only ever been around units with mechanical ground drive, which I believe to be robust enough to handle fertilizer. I don't know what the electric drives are designed to handle and what kind of current draw to expect from them.

 

[Absent Minded Farmer]

I have to admit that middle section of that town confuses me, with the river bend and all the roads sort of bending along also and then remixing themselves in a different direction. Saw the old steam engine train near there when that was the closest stop it made to me some years ago.

Cool deal

Paul

Do you recall where the farm equipment factory was?

Mike

 

[connor9988]

So I have just under a dozen (I think 10 or 11) of these old gandy box units, as well as a lot of the mounting brackets, hose/tube/shute bracket that hold the discharge hoses in place, etc (list towards end of post).
I only need to use these for fertilizing maybe 2 acres of research crop plots, so it's not like I have 500 acres I expect to use these for. But I do need to get them working. I have 4 row plots, so they will be mounted likely on a small (homemade) 4 or 5 row diamond bar cultivator


My main questions are:

1) what is the best way to mount these units to achieve my need of working on a 4 row cultivator (# of boxes, placement, which models of box units, what # of discharge shutes/metering units should I use, and how do I place them?)

2) what kind of motor replacement will I need to have enough power to sufficiently apply the fertilizer?

3) how many motors? 1 on each end of the toolbar, or just one really strong motor? What kinda specs should I be looking for?

4) help with decoding the electrical wiring of these types of motors


On the cultivator I have:
- 1 bar for the gauge wheels, self explanatory
- 1 bar for the "main"/large cultivator ditchers/points things on shanks. Might also have smaller ditcher/"shovels" also on shanks (or maybe they're on a separate bar, can't remember)

- 1 bar for more of those small points mounted on shanks. Each row has a total of 2, 1 on each side of the row positioned in a way so that the dirt/bed is opened slightly for side dressing the fertilizer

- 1 bar for the gandy units



Supplies I have:

A) Gandy box units:
1A) Model # S902EM: x4
2A) Model # S901 P: x4
3A) Model # S901EM: x2

B) metering/roll-ie-over-things (attach at bottom of box units:

1B) 1 hole/hose unit: x6
2B) 2 hole/hose unit: x5
3B) 3 hole/hose unit: x2

C) Motors: total of 3 (all need replacements I think) only 1 of them are actual gandy brand motors. From what I remember in trying to lookup serial/etc #s on the motor, they are basically (or literally) just windshield wiper motors

1C) x2 motors that I think originally came off a IHC combine or similar. I think I burnt them up a few years back when I had absolutely ZERO electrical/mechanical know-how knowledge

2C) x1 Gandy brand; The following info is from the motor's body:
>>12v electric motor (2 wire).
>>black wire is negative
>>green wire is positive
>>Drive sprocket on the motor must turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE
>>Model #EM45951

E) a bunch of 5/8" all thread rod, or otherwise hollow pipe/rod of similar size that is used to keep multiple boxes running synchronized off of one motor mounted on the end unit

Not sure if this motor unit is still functional (I still don't really understand how wiring these windshield wiper-type motors work). I don't really grasp the concept of what all the terminals with one letter Alphabet labels mean, or how to connect them properly. I just sort of randomly connected things last time I tried to use these motors until they started turning, then added a switch controller running to inside of my cab. To make it more complicated, I think both types of motors had slightly different labels and terminals

The "IHC" motors have following terminals, in two clustered groups:

Group 1:
H: (from my tinkering, I believe this was the "high"/fast mode

R: No idea. Looking online gives different or vague, conflicting info. Could be relay, reverse, roobiedoobiedoodbiedoo FAIK, ffs

G: Ground? The motor had a green wire from inside the motor connected to this spade terminal

L: No idea, this mightve been one of the terminals that didn't have anything connected to it when I originally got it. As I think now, I wonder if themis L terminal means "Load"? Maybe it's a shot at me, meaning "loser"? Or, "lol (loser)"?!?questionmarkexclaimationpointquestionmark


Group 2: P
General consensus seems to be this is the "Park" terminal. I haven't the faintest idea wtf that means, other than the people who decided on these terms are obviously partake in some serious sadomasochistismView attachment 112839


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