Hesston 1010 Hydro-Swing help.

[Waco1357]

I'll start by saying I'm new to posting, so bear with me. I tried looking at every thread I could and haven't been able to find anything helpful and I've also completely failed at trying to find a manual. I recently acquired a Hesston 1010 Hydro-Swing Mower Conditioner. By recently I mean I just took it for its first loop around the field today. I'm mechanically inclined but this is my first swather (not sure which term is correct) and next season will be my first year doing hay. (I'm just mowing down the dead grass and "weeds" to test things out) There are two things broken. One is a connecting rod/stick in the assembly for the tines, which keeps them in the proper orientation as they go around. Simple fix and I figured I'd just make my own part, but the correct name would be helpful if someone could tell me... Now for the real issue:
There's a loose loop of cable coming out the side and I have zero idea how it's supposed to be or what it does. It's located above and to the rear of all the moving components/linkage on the side and is routed around what I will describe as a pulley. The cable goes from one side of the swather to the other with mostly "unknown" in-between because it's hidden from view the majority of the way. From what I can see underneath, the two dead ends of the cable going in the one side are hooked to a very stout coil spring that is "floating" behind a cover, presumably because the other end isn't connected properly... Looking through the hole on the other side looks identical (but is completely shielded underneath). Somehow the cable on that side has gone inside... I'm at a complete loss and any help would be greatly appreciated, even if it's a link to a PDF manual I have to pay for. I'll attach the pictures of what I think is needed but will gladly post more. *Someone just said it might be for tension on the conditioners but I don't see how that would work, where the loop of the cable would go, or how to adjust it.*

 

[jon f mn]

What you have is a very common model PT10 haybine only with swing tongue. Very good machines for their vintage. A parts machine would be a good idea. The cable is for the conditioner tension and will need to be replaced if you want it to work right. Same for the plastic arm your talking about. I dont know the name of that piece, but have replaced a couple on my case 555 which is the same machine mostly. When you get the arm make sure you have the bushings in the ends. If yours broke the bushings should still be on the bolts, but if it fell out they will be gone.

Some parts are still available through Agco and Massey Ferguson

 

[Brendon-KS]

Like Jon F said the cable is for the hay conditioner tension system. It goes around the double pulley then attaches to the link directly behind it. The reason for the bellcrank system is so that when the rolls open up wide to pass a slug the tension drops way off which helps reduce plugging.

 

[Waco1357]

What you have is a very common model PT10 haybine only with swing tongue. Very good machines for their vintage. A parts machine would be a good idea. The cable is for the conditioner tension and will need to be replaced if you want it to work right. Same for the plastic arm your talking about. I dont know the name of that piece, but have replaced a couple on my case 555 which is the same machine mostly. When you get the arm make sure you have the bushings in the ends. If yours broke the bushings should still be on the bolts, but if it fell out they will be gone.

Some parts are still available through Agco and Massey Ferguson

From what I read in one of the threads (I can't recall exactly what it said, but can dig it up if needed) it said there were differences in the machine itself (PT10 vs 1010) aside from the tongue not being solid mounted to the side. Maybe something about the rollers being driven by belts instead of chains? Am I completely wrong on that?... Controlling tension of the rollers makes complete sense now. So in these pictures would the cable (blue) be routed around the top pin of this assembly (green), with the white arrows indicating the two directions of pressure which would pull the top roller down, with the bolt/nut (yellow) being an adjustment for minimum clearance? Assuming that's correct, what's the minimum clearance? I would think the only time it would need adjusted now is as the top roller wears? Without that spring being connected it would still function correctly just not condition (smash and crimp) the hay, correct?

I found two service manuals online that I think would be appropriate for me based off your comment about the PT10. One is that manual and the other is for the 1014 center pivot. Would that cover all the bases for me?... Oh, and finally, the front seal of the hydraulic pump is leaking out the front seal sometimes a thin but steady stream and sometimes a slow drip. Is it a standard seal or something special? Will it be straightforward if I just open it up to swap it?

Right now the mower is clogging about every 100-150’. I've been unclogging it by hand and continuing. Would I be correct in believing that is just from what I'm cutting being completely dead and dry? Also maybe from the short stuff being too thin and "seedy"?

Now to get somewhat off topic and I can post on a separate thread if needed. My plan is to swath my field (in the picture), windrow it tighter with my rake, and test run my baler (Massey-Ferguson model 10, pictured), disc the field, and seed (a mix of orchard grass, timothy, and brome) this fall, and spread in the spring when everyone else does. Currently my ground is quite hard and I would think it needs to be loosened up. Is it a horrible idea to try and bale it. Would I run into closing issues? It's powdery dirt made up of mostly sand with a little clay content. I'm in the inland Northwest (eastern Washington state). Any input would be appreciated.

THANK YOU SO MUCH for the quick response and advice. I'm surprised someone got back to me and it's VERY much appreciated as I hoped to get back on the field in an hour.

 

[Willow Lane]

I grew up on your machines little brother, a PT-7, and much of the drive looks very similar. One word of advice, get the books for it. A couple of quirks that I remember, there should be a second sprocket for the chain that drives the reel, either a couple more or couple less teeth depending on which is presently installed. You were supposed to increase the speed of the reel when cutting shorter grass. You definitely need the book if you have to replace the bearing in the assembly that drives the scythe. The bearing has a little more clearance than most and you need to make sure the clearance is centered. And one more piece of advice, remove all of the fingers on the cutter bar, throw them away, and replace them with stub guards.

 

[Waco1357]

I grew up on your machines little brother, a PT-7, and much of the drive looks very similar. One word of advice, get the books for it. A couple of quirks that I remember, there should be a second sprocket for the chain that drives the reel, either a couple more or couple less teeth depending on which is presently installed. You were supposed to increase the speed of the reel when cutting shorter grass. You definitely need the book if you have to replace the bearing in the assembly that drives the scythe. The bearing has a little more clearance than most and you need to make sure the clearance is centered. And one more piece of advice, remove all of the fingers on the cutter bar, throw them away, and replace them with stub guards.

Thank you. I will get the manuals I posted a screenshot of in my reply to jon f mn. I very much appreciate the information.

 

[Waco1357]

Like Jon F said the cable is for the hay conditioner tension system. It goes around the double pulley then attaches to the link directly behind it. The reason for the bellcrank system is so that when the rolls open up wide to pass a slug the tension drops way off which helps reduce plugging.

View attachment 130808

What manual is that? I'd love to see the rest of that diagram. Or what parts book?

 

[Waco1357]

What manual is that? I'd love to see the rest of that diagram. Or what parts book?

Like Jon F said the cable is for the hay conditioner tension system. It goes around the double pulley then attaches to the link directly behind it. The reason for the bellcrank system is so that when the rolls open up wide to pass a slug the tension drops way off which helps reduce plugging.

View attachment 130808

Is the 1014 identical minus the width?

 

[Jim.ME]

What manual is that? I'd love to see the rest of that diagram. Or what parts book?

The parts book is available online at AGCOparts.com. Here is a link to the 1010 CP PT (1010-350 and on) parts book on that site.

Hesston 1010 CP PT (1010 350 and on)

If you go to AGCOpubs.com, you can see what AGCO says is available for manuals for it. I snapped a couple pictures of what came up for manuals when I did the search shown in the first picture. You can call the phone number at the upper right and talk to one of the staff to see if they can find any other manuals for it. They are a third party that handles the publications for AGCO (AGCO tell they the publications for the machines), so they can't provide technical support for machines.

AGCOpubs.com

 

[cjunrau]

From what I read in one of the threads (I can't recall exactly what it said, but can dig it up if needed) it said there were differences in the machine itself (PT10 vs 1010) aside from the tongue not being solid mounted to the side. Maybe something about the rollers being driven by belts instead of chains? Am I completely wrong on that?... Controlling tension of the rollers makes complete sense now. So in these pictures would the cable (blue) be routed around the top pin of this assembly (green), with the white arrows indicating the two directions of pressure which would pull the top roller down, with the bolt/nut (yellow) being an adjustment for minimum clearance? Assuming that's correct, what's the minimum clearance? I would think the only time it would need adjusted now is as the top roller wears? Without that spring being connected it would still function correctly just not condition (smash and crimp) the hay, correct?

I found two service manuals online that I think would be appropriate for me based off your comment about the PT10. One is that manual and the other is for the 1014 center pivot. Would that cover all the bases for me?... Oh, and finally, the front seal of the hydraulic pump is leaking out the front seal sometimes a thin but steady stream and sometimes a slow drip. Is it a standard seal or something special? Will it be straightforward if I just open it up to swap it?

Right now the mower is clogging about every 100-150’. I've been unclogging it by hand and continuing. Would I be correct in believing that is just from what I'm cutting being completely dead and dry? Also maybe from the short stuff being too thin and "seedy"?

Now to get somewhat off topic and I can post on a separate thread if needed. My plan is to swath my field (in the picture), windrow it tighter with my rake, and test run my baler (Massey-Ferguson model 10, pictured), disc the field, and seed (a mix of orchard grass, timothy, and brome) this fall, and spread in the spring when everyone else does. Currently my ground is quite hard and I would think it needs to be loosened up. Is it a horrible idea to try and bale it. Would I run into closing issues? It's powdery dirt made up of mostly sand with a little clay content. I'm in the inland Northwest (eastern Washington state). Any input would be appreciated.

THANK YOU SO MUCH for the quick response and advice. I'm surprised someone got back to me and it's VERY much appreciated as I hoped to get back on the field in an hour.View attachment 130816View attachment 130817View attachment 130818View attachment 130819View attachment 130820View attachment 130821

Not sure what is plugging on you. I find that if you are cutting any hay and it hangs up on the guards and you don't see it soon enough it will feed a big wad in and plug the rollers. I have lots of trouble in mole hills so I cut a bit higher. Trick to unplug. Use a reciprocating saw with a 10-12 inch blade. cut right up against the rollers on both sides and it works fast and easy. I use a cordless or take the generator to the field and use the electric.