Homemade air compressor

[buickanddeere]

There is a few reasons I didn't go with one like that, first that one costs more then the one I am making, second that one does not have the capacity that I was hoping for, third I like making stuff, and finely I have already ordered all the stuff for the one I am making.

Keep track of all your cost's and tally them up when the project is operating as desired .

 

[ss55]

I was also thinking of wiring a emergency pressure operated electric shut down in to the ignition of the engine, just in case...

https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Pressure-Switch-Pessure-Controller/dp/B07T8YXQ34/ref=sr_1_6?

A pop-off safety valve will be needed.

 

[Mule Meat]

Based on the available information, it appears to be a N/C switch that opens at 150psi and closes when the pressure drops to 120psi.... but i didn't understand the relevance of 12 and 24 volts so I may not be on the right track here.

Turn On Air Compressor @ 120 PSI ; Turn Off Air Compressor @ 150 PSI (Tolerance: +/- 5%)

Think of it as a light or a kill switch. One wire to the coil. One wire to ground. When the switch is turned on. The circuit is complete, the coil is grounded and the engine shuts down.

If it were connected to an electric PTO clutch it still wouldn't work. For you would somehow have to build 120 psi in the tank before the clutch would start working.

Can you say..

ACME Cobbled Air Compressor Kit #911

Edited to add.. Those switches are use for secondary air supplies that are controlled by solenoids or small motors.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Turn On Air Compressor @ 120 PSI ; Turn Off Air Compressor @ 150 PSI (Tolerance: +/- 5%)

Think of it as a light or a kill switch. One wire to the coil. One wire to ground. When the switch is turned on. The circuit is complete, the coil is grounded and the engine shuts down.

If it were connected to an electric PTO clutch it still wouldn't work. For you would somehow have to build 120 psi in the tank before the clutch would start working.

Can you say..

ACME Cobbled Air Compressor Kit #911

Edited to add.. Those switches are use for secondary air supplies that are controlled by solenoids or small motors.

I'm just going by the way a standard mechanical switch works. They shut off at 150 and back on at 120 .... I never saw one of those little things before.

So... if the air demand is greater than the pump can supply, and tank pressure falls below 120, it shuts off again?

 

[Fritz Maurer]

There is a few reasons I didn't go with one like that, first that one costs more then the one I am making, second that one does not have the capacity that I was hoping for, third I like making stuff, and finely I have already ordered all the stuff for the one I am making.

I bought a Emglo back in '88 with 80 gallon receiver and 23 cfm pump, and it was $1450 back then . Your home build will be a whole lot cheaper.

 

[Stephen Newell]

If you have an inspection camera you might take a peek at the bottom of the tank on the inside. It might be pitted with rust and poised to fail. If it's not bad I would chemically clean the bottom of the rust, let dry and coat the bottom with epoxy primer to prevent it from rusting out.

 

[Mule Meat]

I'm just going by the way a standard mechanical switch works. They shut off at 150 and back on at 120 .... I never saw one of those little things before.

So... if the air demand is greater than the pump can supply, and tank pressure falls below 120, it shuts off again?

I will try to explain it in simple terms.

You have a main tank used in a shop.
Then you have an auxiliary tank used only for a signal device such as a horn or whistle.
When the pressure in the auxiliary tank falls to 120 psi. The switch opens a solenoid or powers and electric motor valve that allows the pressure to build back up to 150 psi then it shuts off. In short it maintains the pressure in the auxiliary tank between 120 - 150 psi.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

I will try to explain it in simple terms.

You have a main tank used in a shop.
Then you have an auxiliary tank used only for a signal device such as a horn or whistle.
When the pressure in the auxiliary tank falls to 120 psi. The switch opens a solenoid or powers and electric motor valve that allows the pressure to build back up to 150 psi then it shuts off. In short it maintains the pressure in the auxiliary tank between 120 - 150 psi.

Earlier you said that the clutch would not work from 0-120 psi unless the system was pre-charged by some other source. That's what i found confusing. I didn't understand how the switch could turn off the compressor at 150, turn it on at 120, and be back the other way at 119.

 

[Jeremiah's Tractors]

I will try to explain it in simple terms.

You have a main tank used in a shop.
Then you have an auxiliary tank used only for a signal device such as a horn or whistle.
When the pressure in the auxiliary tank falls to 120 psi. The switch opens a solenoid or powers and electric motor valve that allows the pressure to build back up to 150 psi then it shuts off. In short it maintains the pressure in the auxiliary tank between 120 - 150 psi.

I understand what you mean, but the description said normally open, I can always test it with a meter.

 

[Jeremiah's Tractors]

Also I decided to go with a unloader valve instead of a clutch and a idle down.

 

[johnl18436572]

I was looking at doing something similar, wanted a safety/overpressure valve to dump the tank at a certain upper pressure limit, and an ignition kill upon reaching pressure. Then manual re-start to charge a large tank.

Was thinking instead of that, just run the engine continuously with a built-in bleed down, that leaks all the time, maybe through a pressure regulator. Switching it on/off too complicated.

 

[Mule Meat]

I was looking at doing something similar, wanted a safety/overpressure valve to dump the tank at a certain upper pressure limit, and an ignition kill upon reaching pressure. Then manual re-start to charge a large tank.

Was thinking instead of that, just run the engine continuously with a built-in bleed down, that leaks all the time, maybe through a pressure regulator. Switching it on/off too complicated.

An Unloader for a engine driven compressor is the safest way to go. It automatically keeps the pressure between two set points. Once it builds to max pressure the valve opens and allows excess air to escape without shutting the engine down.


An idle control valve with a cable screws into the valve and attaches to the engine. When max pressure is reached some of the escaping excess air opens this valve and the engine will idle until the pressure drops enough to close the unloader valve. When the unloader valve closes the idle control will automatically open the throttle on the engine.

Simple, safe and it has worked on engine driven compressors for a long as I can remember. .

 

[Jeremiah's Tractors]

An Unloader for a engine driven compressor is the safest way to go. It automatically keeps the pressure between two set points. Once it builds to max pressure the valve opens and allows excess air to escape without shutting the engine down.


An idle control valve with a cable screws into the valve and attaches to the engine. When max pressure is reached some of the escaping excess air opens this valve and the engine will idle until the pressure drops enough to close the unloader valve. When the unloader valve closes the idle control will automatically open the throttle on the engine.

Simple, safe and it has worked on engine driven compressors for a long as I can remember. .

That is the way I,m going. Like you said"

Simple, safe and it has worked on engine driven compressors for a long as I can remember. "