Honeing fluid

Seriously! I use WD40 for honing, for cylinders or brake cylinders. It lets the stones cut fast, and keeps the stones pores open.
 
If your pressure honing you don't really want to use engine oil as it will tend to clog up the pores in the stone. Instead use kerosene, diesel fuel, wd'40, or some other light weight lubricant. I can't remember which fluid for which metals off the top of my head, but aluminium, steel, cast, etc all have a best to use fluid. However if all your doing is running a 'dingle berry' hone to deglaze the cylinder walls, they actually recommend using a good 10 weight engine oil for that.
 
We have always used spindel oil and have used thread cutting oil at times. After getting done I wash every thing down good. Didn't think Wd 40 would have enough oil in it to help stones cut. Not saying WD40 won't work I have never tried it. I'am not a big fan of WD40 and I have a can of it but very seldom use it.
 
What ever you use, I have been told to wash the cylinder walls with soap and water to remove all the fine stuff from honing. Then use fresh oil to lube the rings, and walls. stan
 
I usually set them in my solvent tank and set the nozzle to keep a supply spraying in there as I hone. I use stoddard solvent which is usually got a pretty good amount of dissolved grease and oil in it.
 
Where do you get spindle oil,(serious Question)
We"ve always used Denatured Alcohol, on brake
master and wheel cylinders, and I used it on a
IH "Scout" 4 cylinder, but after 300 miles on a
re-ring job, it was still fouling plugs..I think
the rings weren"t seating yet ?
I went to "Tech School", in 1970, and they used
a coffee can, with 1/2 Stoddard solvent, and 1/2
#10 motor oil,(mixed) to dip pistons in, when
rings were on, but before putting pistons in the
block.
 

All you need is a medium to allow the stones to slide and float out the chips.
I prefer Diesel..regular "oil" is too viscus and makes the stones float, which slows the Honing job a great deal..
Some cylinders will take 30 Minutes + even with Diesel, to remove the old ring marks at the top and bottom of the cylinder (anyway..that IS your goal).

Ron..
 
not really, your goal is just to deglaze the cyl. if you are honing for 30 minutes then you are enlarging cyl. bore. you sure dont want that.
i have used many things from gasoline, which is a no no, varsol, wd 40, kerosene with good results.
 

Putting new rings into a bore with a worn (un-honed) area at the top will only ruin the Seal the rings make.
If the bore is Worn and not true ( but allowing for the wear taper), it should be ok, but you want the Wear pattern honed out..
You could Hone all you want and not make a measurable increase in the Bore.

Ron.
 
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