How do I drain the radiator and engine block?

[Texasmark]

I bought the 895 and am going through the fluid replacement process. Unlike the 395 with removable panels up front, under the hood, this seems to be an early 1991 or so model and the hood is all in one piece. I will have to string some ropes from my shed and work it up and out of the way to get at things.

I haven't found out how to drain the radiator and don't see a block drain on the engine to drain that. Really need to get new coolant fluids before the next freeze.

Other thing is, it has the XL cab and on the glass, visible from the front of the cab, is a diagram showing the fuse compliment but unlike the 395, there are no fuses available where the cover is over the battery. Where are they?. The battery on this one is below the left side step making it easy to access.

The full set of manuals I have address not only the 395 but all the way thorough the 895. Very comprehensive and the volumes are about 6" thick.....lots of pages to flip through trying to find what you want to view.

One problem I want fixed is the instrument panel. Currently the only things that illuminates are the hand brake energized or not and the oil pressure. If I can find the fuse panel maybe all I have is a blown fuse to get the tach and temp indicators to energize.

Really impressed with Case IH ruggedness. The 395 is what caused me to move away from my favorite Fords and go with something else. Big difference in the two brands in terms of built tough and longevity.

Replies appreciated.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Don't know about the fuse box. I believe the temp gauge is a wet bulb gauge so look at that first if not then more possibilities for problems like connections and sender unit or gauge. Tach might be a live line to the engine close to the front pulley so could be a shot cable or stuck gauge or stripped teeth on the drive gear at bottom end. If you take the top end off with a cable drive put a bit of oil in the sleeve before putting back on. If it is an electric tach again more possibilities. bad tone ring sender or gauge and of course connections. If it has the same wiring as our 574 it is that cheap IH steel wire wiring and the covering comes off the wires easy later in life and makes for poor connections as well as at the junction blocks in the wiring.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Forgot your drains. Rad should have a petcock at the right on the back bottom facing to the rear. We just slip a bit of over flow hose on and let it drain through that so as not to be a mess with spilt coolant. as for the drain on the D-239 engines they are right over the starter on the left side just off the end of the starter a plug in the block .Always makes a mess since it has to run down the block into a pail.

 

[Texasmark]

Forgot your drains. Rad should have a petcock at the right on the back bottom facing to the rear. We just slip a bit of over flow hose on and let it drain through that so as not to be a mess with spilt coolant. as for the drain on the D-239 engines they are right over the starter on the left side just off the end of the starter a plug in the block .Always makes a mess since it has to run down the block into a pail.

Ok on the engine block drain I think. There is a new shiny, flat disc there about the size of a half dollar. Its in the right place,,,,,where you say plus low enough to be at the bottom of the coolant passages in the engine block, but doesn't look like, nor is it, the normal petcock type device. I guess that's it??????


I went to the auto parts store and they gave me the following spin on filters:
Fuel, Oil, coolant conditioner, and main hydraulic sump. So far I haven't been able to find the coolant conditioner spin on filter. Standing behind the tractor looking at the rear remote valves, moving my glaze over to the left, tucked un under the cab is a full metal canister with steel 3/8"ish tubes attached....one on the bottom and one on the top. Both tubes disappear under the cab.....Don't see it as the AC dryer as there is no obvious way to service/remove it. Any ideas on both unknowns.

Thank you sir for your time. Surely I will be back on here asking more questions besides looking at my manuals and "My Case-IH www.

 

[Donald in MN]

I bought the 895 and am going through the fluid replacement process. Unlike the 395 with removable panels up front, under the hood, this seems to be an early 1991 or so model and the hood is all in one piece. I will have to string some ropes from my shed and work it up and out of the way to get at things.

I haven't found out how to drain the radiator and don't see a block drain on the engine to drain that. Really need to get new coolant fluids before the next freeze.

Other thing is, it has the XL cab and on the glass, visible from the front of the cab, is a diagram showing the fuse compliment but unlike the 395, there are no fuses available where the cover is over the battery. Where are they?. The battery on this one is below the left side step making it easy to access.

The full set of manuals I have address not only the 395 but all the way thorough the 895. Very comprehensive and the volumes are about 6" thick.....lots of pages to flip through trying to find what you want to view.

One problem I want fixed is the instrument panel. Currently the only things that illuminates are the hand brake energized or not and the oil pressure. If I can find the fuse panel maybe all I have is a blown fuse to get the tach and temp indicators to energize.

Really impressed with Case IH ruggedness. The 395 is what caused me to move away from my favorite Fords and go with something else. Big difference in the two brands in terms of built tough and longevity.

Replies appreciated.

the fuse block is in the battery door up under the dash in front of the steering wheel. the block drain is a plug near the starter. to drain the radiator its easier to take off the lower radiator hose the drain is under the radiator and in a hard place to get at

 

[Texasmark]

Thanks. I found the fuse blocks where you said earlier today. All the fuses were good. The source of the dead instrument cluster is apparently some where else....gotta be a fuse as other than the brake and oil pressure warning lights the rest of it is dead and there are no signs of any rat damage anywhere.

I looked all over for the radiator pet cock and found none so I did too took the lower hose off as it was right in front of me and not that hard to get to and it came off easily. Got the fluid changed.

The engine is stout, no smoking with a fresh oil change, runs smooth takes throttle great, shifter, hydraulics, brakes and steering (now that the loader is off....I bought it without it....) works OK... Tires are new or near new, only thing is the AC and I ran some tests on that today and I may use it without it.....time will tell. The whole back window opens as does a roof hatch. The AC blower works...lots of shade in there, may not need the AC after all. I think I got a lot of tractor for $10k delivered.....lucked out.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Not all tractors have a coolant filter and all they do is disperse treatment in to the coolant. I gave up on them years ago and just use test strips for the coolant and add the treatment myself directly into the rad then run it. If it is in freezing weather as the treatment liquid can freeze. After it is mixed with the coolant it is fine. I get the strips and treatment at auto parts stores or truck part houses. DO some research for the antifreeze you use because there are different strips for the antifreeze you use. the green stuff uses a different strip than the red stuff. At least this is what I found upon reading about the difference in the make up of the organo and non organo compounds in the antifreeze. I'm sure somebody will opine on this in a better or different way.