How Do You Start an F-20?

[RTR]

I've only been around the Letter Series Farmalls and up, but now I need to help a friend start their late father's F-20 that has been sitting in an enclosed building for 5 years, and I don't know anything about their controls.

This one has (2) levers up on the steering column and also has a saw tooth lever down on the right side (sitting on the tractor). There was no gas left in it so that is good. I poured fresh gas in the tank and pulled the choke....the (2) levers on the steering column were set opposite each other - 1 at approx. 2 oclock and 1 at approx. 5 oclock. After a couple hand cranks with the choke closed, I did 1 half crank with the choke open and she roared to life but sputterd and died after about 4-5 seconds. THEN we moved the (2) controls at the steering column opposite of how they were set.....just reversed their positions.....and tried again. Nothing. I then moved them back to original position and she roared to life again to only sputter out and die.

What are those controls for and where should they be set to start it up? Should I feather those controls once running to keep it from dying or feather the choke?? Sorry for being so ignorant on the F-series tractors.

 

[redforlife]

The 2 levers on steering column are, one for spark retard, and the other is for the throttle. I am going to guess
that the throttle lever is disconnected. And the throttle is now the saw tooth lever on the right side. If this is
the case, a rod should run from saw tooth lever up to the governor. This would eliminate the use of the throttle
lever in front of steering wheel. But the spark lever there, would still be functional if still connected to a cap
on the back side of mag.

The cap on back of mag, the small one covering the points and the one that spark adjustment rod goes to, this
should be all the way up to kill tractor, part way down to start, all the way down to run.

The saw tooth throttle lever, presuming it is connected and now your throttle; all the way forward for idle, all
the way back for full throttle. Pull it about 1/3 of the way back to start.

I am guessing the throttle is set to low of rpm's to run, or the carburater is plugged up and not working. More
than likely my first guess is right. Adjust the throttle. The reason it is dieing is because it is only running on
the gas it was given during choking process. When the fuel from choking is gone, it dies. Throttle needs opened up
some is likely the problem.

 

[RTR]

(quoted from post at 23:20:07 04/11/19) The 2 levers on steering column are, one for spark retard, and the other is for the throttle. I am going to guess
that the throttle lever is disconnected. And the throttle is now the saw tooth lever on the right side. If this is
the case, a rod should run from saw tooth lever up to the governor. This would eliminate the use of the throttle
lever in front of steering wheel. But the spark lever there, would still be functional if still connected to a cap
on the back side of mag.

The cap on back of mag, the small one covering the points and the one that spark adjustment rod goes to, this
should be all the way up to kill tractor, part way down to start, all the way down to run.

The saw tooth throttle lever, presuming it is connected and now your throttle; all the way forward for idle, all
the way back for full throttle. Pull it about 1/3 of the way back to start.

I am guessing the throttle is set to low of rpm's to run, or the carburater is plugged up and not working. More
than likely my first guess is right. Adjust the throttle. The reason it is dieing is because it is only running on
the gas it was given during choking process. When the fuel from choking is gone, it dies. Throttle needs opened up
some is likely the problem.

Thank you. I will try it again this evening. If the carb is stopped up, would it be starting like it already is? It sounds powerful!. I hope I don't have to remove and disassemble it!!

 

[Loren in Iowa]

Once it starts, you may want to partially close the choke, to keep it running, until it
warms up.

 

[F-Dean]

If it does not have electric start (add-on), use the twisted-belt method. This allows you to try several adjustments until it starts.

 

[RTR]

(quoted from post at 22:29:54 04/12/19) If it does not have electric start (add-on), use the twisted-belt method. This allows you to try several adjustments until it starts.

we used the “pull it with a chain with another tractor” method. She fires off within inches of pulling it big will not stay running. Finally just let him pull me in 4th to keep it running and she ran rough with not much power. Working on uploading a video.

 

[RTR]

Here is the video.

https://youtu.be/mLBiB5gGkUg

https://youtu.be/mLBiB5gGkUg

 

[redforlife]

Try cleaning the spark plugs. Hit the points with some fine grain sand paper. Make sure you don't have any valves
sticking. F-20s were notorious for sticking valves, especially if sat for awhile. And oil the rocker arms. They
have to be manually oiled by pouring oil in the holes on top of valve cover.

It is running rough. These are just some tips for ya. Play around with it untill it runs smooth.

 

[RTR]

(quoted from post at 11:09:26 04/13/19) Try cleaning the spark plugs. Hit the points with some fine grain sand paper. Make sure you don't have any valves
sticking. F-20s were notorious for sticking valves, especially if sat for awhile. And oil the rocker arms. They
have to be manually oiled by pouring oil in the holes on top of valve cover.

It is running rough. These are just some tips for ya. Play around with it untill it runs smooth.

What spark plug does she take? Might get some new ones. I did try hand cranking it again and this time after several attempts it didn’t hit at all. Before, it would fire off after 3-4 pulls and die. I’ll do what’s mentioned.

I would also take the carb off and clean it but I’m scared I’ll mess up the gaskets for which I don’t have replacements. And don’t have time to order any. The family is auctioning it off.

 

[neverfear]

Sure sounds like it's starving for fuel. My bet would be the main circuit in the carb is plugged with a little trash.

 

[neverfear]

Another test to do is get it running again and give it a whiff of starting fluid in the air intake. If it smooths out for an instant that's telling you it needs more fuel.

 

[RTR]

(quoted from post at 16:44:48 04/13/19) Another test to do is get it running again and give it a whiff of starting fluid in the air intake. If it smooths out for an instant that's telling you it needs more fuel.

Good idea.

 

[RTR]

What tools will I need to remove and disassemble the carburetor should I need to clean it? I’m not around the tractor and headed home to get tools.

 

[neverfear]

Can't tell you specific but I would think a can of spray carb cleaner, something to poke out small holes, a basic set of
wrenches,socket set,knife,pliers or 2 and a handfull of screwdrivers and a hammer would get the job done. Grab a sheet of heavy
card stock or side of a cereal box in case you need to make a new gasket for the bowl of the carb.