How much ATF?

How much ATF should you put in each cylinder? I picked this tractor up some time back under the usual "ran when parked" 10-15 years ago. Engine is free so it's an assumed runner but it will probably be a while before I get around to doing anything with it so I'm just wanting to make sure it stays free.
 
How long is a while?
If months then atf will be fine. If possibly years I would use something heavier. Like 90 W or so. It wont leak down the rings as fast and will cling to the bores longer.
I picked up an NOS engine about a year ago.
Don't know what I'll do with it or when I'll get at it but it was reasonable and I have tractors it will fit so I bought it.
So I popped the head off and coated the bores with axle grease. They had slight rust in them from sitting for 40 years but nothing serious.
I kept turning the engine over so it slimed up the entire bore.
Then I put the head back on and tightened but didn't torque the bolts.
Someday either I or someone will be glad.

100_1974.jpg


100_1976.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 20:04:34 02/23/16)
Be sure exhaust and intake are plugged. I have had mice crawl in past valves TWICE!

mice are evil. i just finished another round of putting out tomcat bait chunx in the garage and pole barn in mouse-only accessible spots in anticipation of the 53 feet of snow we have coming tomorrow.
 
(quoted from post at 20:28:15 02/23/16)
(quoted from post at 20:04:34 02/23/16)
Be sure exhaust and intake are plugged. I have had mice crawl in past valves TWICE!

mice are evil. i just finished another round of putting out tomcat bait chunx in the garage and pole barn in mouse-only accessible spots in anticipation of the 53 feet of snow we have coming tomorrow.
53 feet?!?!?! You keep that crap over there on your side of the state! Stay warm! :lol:
 
ty royse, i shall try. the propane pig's at 85% as of this morning, but i have an axe to grind with my propane folks. they over-delivered, and now i owe them money again.

six cents :)
 
You say it will be a while, if it is going to be a long while and I
wanted to use ATF I would fill the cylinders and put the plugs
back in. Then check the oil level every so often as it will leak
by the rings. Refill them as needed to keep them coated.

Change the oil before you start it once you get to work on it.
If this is an N flathead, you may get the added bonus of coating
the valves along with the pistons/rings/cylinder walls.
 
Don't know how long it will be. I would like to get started on it sooner than later (as in September/Octoberish 2014) but it always seems like something more pressing comes up, so it's hard to say...might be a few years. In that case, filling them up sounds like it might be the way to go.
 

As everyone is sick of hearing by now, I'd spray the walls with Amsoil MP so that you KNOW you are cutting the rust and corrosion and dissolving gum . . . it is also a very thin lubricant which is needed for access by those pistons, rings and cylinders.
Perfectly logically so I don't know why people resist the idea.

Do that till it moves and then add some ATF for more lubrication.
ATF does not dissolve rust and corrosion as far as I know and if it does it is very minimal compared to the Amsoil spray.
 
If you plan on letting it sit a month or 6 years FILL the cylinders with ATF. Never can have enough in them to keep things from rusting or locking up. I have engines that have had ATF in them for years since I have never been able to get around to them and each I filled as full as I could
 
(quoted from post at 19:43:53 02/23/16) Have you ever soaked anything in ATF?? I will in fact remove most rust etc off most any thing

Well live and learn!
I had no idea that automatic transmissions ran on penetrating fluid! :D
 
(quoted from post at 23:13:45 02/23/16)
(quoted from post at 19:43:53 02/23/16) Have you ever soaked anything in ATF?? I will in fact remove most rust etc off most any thing

Well live and learn!
I had no idea that automatic transmissions ran on penetrating fluid! :D
Try it.
Studies have ranked it mixed 50/50 with Acetone as the #1 penetrating fluid.
Not to mention the price point. :)
 
(quoted from post at 20:13:45 02/23/16)
(quoted from post at 19:43:53 02/23/16) Have you ever soaked anything in ATF?? I will in fact remove most rust etc off most any thing

Well live and learn!
I had no idea that automatic transmissions ran on penetrating fluid! :D

Hey are we talking conventional or synthetic here?
 

Ah ha, the secret is out . . . nobody mentioned the acetone before in this thread unless I missed it. There's the solvent aspect right there, but maybe a magic mix for sure. :)

I rest my case (of MP)
This is Amsoil MP, no soaking and immediate action.
33251.jpg
 
P.S.
Those dark spots on the towel are not flakes, they are puddles of pure rust.

Maybe some day someone can show me this kind of action by simply POURING ATF with Acetone, over a Coulter wheel collar.
This one is off my Ford 110.

I'll eat my hat and a plate of humble pie for desert. :D

The lumpiness you see on the splines are pudding-like blobs of dissolved rust. This happened in the space of a half hour on my steering shaft.
33253.jpg
 
<sigh> Anyone can tout any product they want all day long.
Until they do a controlled comparison, it is just salesmanship.
Like saying bias ply tires are the best without ever trying radials.
I'm sure I don't have to explained how controlled testing is done.
Maybe we could at least to a cost comparison?
 

That's a total understatement not to mention an insult to my intelligence to say that I am just " touting a product."

First of all you had to have totally reject the photos I offered as proof, in order to bolster your case.

Without any visible proof to offer why is your case not just a "touting of ATF/Acetone as the undisputed best rust cutting penetrant available?

If whoever you say did that comparison included Amsoil MP
then I'd love to see proof of that.

Show me the some photographic proof on your side of the debate, I'd love to see [i:4de2104289]some[/i:4de2104289] kind of evidence that's more than anecdotal.

Put your ATF/acetone penetrating photos where your rhetoric is. :)

Cheers though,
T
 
I have been quoted assaying ATF and acetone but in all the years I have been on YT I have NEVER used that mix. Now if one said ATF and turpentine well heck yes that mix 50/50 will do rust big time time.
 
I certainly did not mean to insult your intelligence.
I apologize if I did so. I am only quoting test results.

Those results are readily available on the internet.
And no, they did not include Amsoil MP.
Maybe they limited it to products you can buy at local retailers.
Maybe they limited the test to a certain dollar amount.
A point you conveniently ignored.
I can't say since I didn't run the test.

There is always more than one way to get a job done.
We all have different ways of doing that same job too.
That's why we have "discussion forums". To discuss things.
 
Funny I was one if not the first person who on Y-T said ATF but in ALL my years here I have NEVER said ATF and acetone. Now yes I have said a 50/50 mix of ATF and turpentine and I have used tha ta lot but turpentine is getting hard to find so I use plan old ATF
 
Old,

I've got this big old Nabob can with the plastic lid still working, full of ATF. I use it when I want to dunk a piece of red steel . . . gets a little smoky for a sec. I like it for it's thinness.

Of course I've used ATF on various things through the years.

Maybe it's true about old dogs and tricks. :)

But if I could turn back time
And re-do the rust photos that I actually took for the forum's sake, of my freeing up of the 15 years in the rain and snow, totally seized coulter shaft in it's collar . . .
It was lying under the trees flat on the often wet ground
beside the plow when I bought it.

Nothing staged for the sake of "touting a product"
I wanted an honest test . . .
I had to use a big hammer on that blighter too
penetrated some of the rust and got moving
and then the movement let more fluid in
and warmth generated by the movement accelerates the rust cutting . . . it was seriously frozen then super tight
I had it in my big blacksmiths vise . . . love that vise

So . . . after that movement and penetrating [b:7365db6c5b]oil[/b:7365db6c5b] getting to the heart of the seizure
after taking it out of the vise and laying it down to spray it is when those dark chocolate drips started falling and then the lighter brown ones.. I'm telling you the stuff works so well that at that point you can spray down to bare metal in places without rubbing, but it's a big waste of fluid.

AT THAT STAGE you see in the photo would be a good time to switch to just ATF or Acetone/ATF. then later see how it holds up and lasts on the shaft and in the collar
through the weather down the road . . . er,
down the furrow.

But I digress
if I could turn back time and use ATF and Acetone on that very same seized up Ford 110 Coulter shaft.
Just pour it on, beat on it like I had to and then squirt some on ATF/Acetone on while catching the drips on a towel like I did
the proof would be in the rust pudding.

After 40 years of nothing but 50's machinery, I know which solution I'd put my money on. But I would happily do a double back flip if the ATF won. But hey, how dare I claim that I discovered a winning thing in the 70's when it came to rust.

This summer I'l try to find two identical rusty things
and do that side by side typical test.
Amsoil MP vs ATF
then
Amsoil MP vs Acetone ATF

Who am I kidding
in this competition
that some will pretend is not
there can be focus on winning and holding fast
than on learning a new trick.

And so having come full circle
I'd be playin' the fool again
I'd have as much trouble selling my results
As an old Ford Coulter in the rain :D
 
Just a word of warning, folks that tout using acetone in any such an application have never seen the results stemming from an acetone fire. Use ATF and diesel which works as well and won't quickly evaporate like acetone does. Play it safe!
 
(quoted from post at 07:20:14 02/24/16) Just a word of warning, folks that tout using acetone in any such an application have never seen the results stemming from an acetone fire. Use ATF and diesel which works as well and won't quickly evaporate like acetone does. Play it safe!

Please elaborate. What are you referring to in "such an application"
 
(quoted from post at 12:20:54 02/24/16)
(quoted from post at 07:20:14 02/24/16) Just a word of warning, folks that tout using acetone in any such an application have never seen the results stemming from an acetone fire. Use ATF and diesel which works as well and won't quickly evaporate like acetone does. Play it safe!

Please elaborate. What are you referring to in "such an application"

imo, "such an" could be removed here. acetone is a very volatile chemical with an extremely low (-4 degrees fahrenheit) flash point. the words "well-ventilated area" could have been coined specifically for its use.

my advice wound be to use it outdoors, and i don't even mean in the pole barn, i mean out on the lawn somewhere, far away from any potential ignition source. a windy day would be a good idea too.

on the positive side, it's much safer to breathe than the banned alternatives mentioned here ;)
 
dittowhat UD said.

if you are leaving it set a while, fill the bores with atf. if leaving it set years.. lube it heavy..
 
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