How much rust is too much?

[BobinKS]

Working on the rims off of an unstyled b. On the inside is a considerable amount of rust but the metal seems to be solid still. What is the best way to seal this up and prevent further rusting. They are on cut off spokes. Should I try to get most of the flaking parts off and seal with a heavy coat of some type of paint? Or should I just get new rims and replace them?

 

[55 50]

Obviously get the flaking stuff off first. Then use Permatex Rust Treatment available from auto parts stores followed by your favorite paint. Needs to dry before the paint though.

 

[Steve Crum]

If the tires were loaded with calcium and that caused the rust, I would cut my losses an bite the bullet for new rims. Once calcium starts to ruin a rim consider it ruined.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Naval jelly is good to remove rust
L A

 

[Mike M]

Sandblast them clean ,then prime and paint. If you get any small holes in them from the blasting a mig welder will fill them right in nicely.

 

[P Browning]

You seem to be saying that once you are through the rust layering, you have sufficient metal remaining -- therefore, saving the rims is the choice you have made. And so long as you are right, you have no problem. This is a KEY assumption because even at 12 to 14 PSI, tractor rears are large enough to put a good amount of pressure on those old rims!

The ultimate clean up is sandblasting, quickly followed by a coat of epoxy-based primer. That having been said, I submit the series below.

First off however, the layers of flaked rust must be removed. One needs to get down to where an application of "rust converter" will penetrate the remaining rust enough to also reach base steel. PENETRATION is the KEY word here.

RUST CONVERTERS are generally phosphoric acid-based and come under a series of names, some more powerful than others. Try GOOGLE and do some research; start with OSPHO, EXTEND, NAVAL JELLY, and RUST CONVERTER -- to name a few brands. Your need (with those rims) is to end up with NO red rust and a seal so that air & humidity can no longer reach the steel.

If applied per instructions, many of these products make a claim to be equivalent to the primer coat! Personally, I think that is a bit of a stretch. Each application instance is unique. Once cured, one can use wire brushing, sanding mediums, or even scotch bright pads to remove dried residue which will remain behind. Don't rush the curing process. One or two days (even) may not be too long -- depending on temperature and humidity of the working environment. As a matter of course, I usually employ normal means of primer paint preparation following a successful "rust converter" application & cure cycle.

I hope this helps. No two tractor rears have ever been quite the same in my experiences. I have used the "rust converter" method nearly as many times as I have sandblasted, and at today's labor rates for sandblasting, you can afford to substitute a good many hours of love labor in its place. So long as you KNOW you aren't fighting pin-holes or broad areas of risky-thin steel left behind by calcium chloride solution leaks, the "by hand" methods should serve you well. (PatB)

 

[Dave H]

I use electrolysis to clean the rims up. Removes all the rust out of the pits. Bet ya it kills the calcium also. However I probably won't live long enough to find out.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Make a liner out of 14-16 ga steel and weld it in place.

 

[rexhellwig]

Is the wheel badly rusted all or most of the way around?

The reason I'm asking is that many times a wheel is really bad only in a small area. If you can find a junk wheel where part of it is good, your local welder can graft in a piece to repair the rusted area. My brother will keep some wheel "pieces" around for just such an occasion. While I used to have my doubts, the results are very good.

 

[Anonymous-0]

If you have an air compressor an air chissel works dandy. Use ear protection.