Hows it look

[Lanse]

to you?? This is cylenders 1 and 2 of the "B" with PB in there. Cylender 3 is a little worse then 2, and cylender 4 is as clean as cylender 1. How should i get the rust out of there??

 

[Dick L]

If you have not done anything to clean them up I think you lucked out. How about a picture of the other two? (cylinders) Least that is the way a 70 year old spells it.
Steel Wool and a rag will wipe the most off and out.

 

[Walt Davies]

Lance you really need to get a cylinder hone and pull the pistons out then hone the cylinders with a cross hatch pattern use a half in drill with variable speed and turn it real slow to get the pattern.

Walt

 

[r aiken]

Lanse, It looks like you have a good chance to get it going. I have 3 of them like this.
.<a href="http://s92.photobucket.com/albums/l4/acfmmjdcmhihc/?action=view&current=Nov01102.jpg" target="_blank">

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These are a little harder.

 

[Coloken]

Lanse, Hard to tell from a photo but I think you can get by not pulling the pistons. Sure, the old timers with tools like to do it 100 percent, but that is some thing else.
I want to warn you that if you do or ever pull the rods that that engine has lots of shims to adjust them. Be very care full and understand what they are about. At least my very eary B had them. More than one or two, more like a package on each rod bearing.
Go slow and good luck. Kenny

 

[Anonymous-0]

Whats the JB weld on the floor for? Looks like you will be able to free that one up. Ive had mush worse and with a little tlc they still run fine , good luck!!!!!

 

[Lanse]

Nope, ive barely done a thing. All i did was used a rag on them when i pulled the ATF out of there, but that diddnt do much.

Also, how do i remove that thing in front of the block?? I want to get the grease off it, then prime and paint it.

 

[Lanse]

Thats just an empty package. Going out there this afternoon to try to clean out part of the garage. Not much light in there and crap all over the floor.

 

[Lanse]

Id rather not, truth be told. What about sandpaper in there??? Am i expecting to have to do a ring job??

 

[Lanse]

OK. I'll probabally wait for the engine to loosten up first, but diddnt someone say to go sideways and not up and down with the steel wool??

 

[trucker40]

It doesnt look stuck too bad.A wire brush on a drill maybe would take that rust out.Steel wool maybe would work too.

 

[Joe Pro]

Yes you want to go arround the cylinder wall, opposite of the dirrection of piston travel. Also I want to tell you I know you are anxious to git it done and make it look orangs, but I would not prime or paint a single thing that is attached to that tractor until it is running well. you will get oil and grease on it and there aint now use in cleaning it twice. paint the hood and other small things if you want to but dont do anything to the tractor.

 

[Alex-41JDb]

You can get the little wheel and cup wire brushes that go on the end of a drill. Should clean it up. Hows the carb going?

 

[old]

If you have that some place that you can safely do this it may help you a lot. Use a rag and get the PB out then fill all the cylinders almost full with ATF. The add a table spoon of gas to all of them and stand back and light the stuff in the cylinders up. Do that 2 or 3 times till almost all the ATF/Gas is burned out then try to turn the crank. What that does is heats up the block and sleeves but not the pistons and a lot of times thats all it takes to get it to turn and pop the pistons loose. You may still want to pull the pistons and hone the clyinders just to make sure you have good clean cylinders. It would be a heck of a note for you to put it back together and then have it smoke because of a ring braking or a sleeve that has to many pits in it to work well
Hobby farm

 

[Lanse]

I would if i could, old. This thing is missing a rear rim (anyone in Soultwest Ohio got one??) so its kind of stuck in place. To get it in there, we stuck the bucket of that kuboda under the drawbar and pushed it in.

 

[Lanse]

With these tempratures, it may wait that long, LOL. Im planning to take the engine apart (take everything off the block), check it out, and paint it, then put it back on.

 

[Lanse]

Yeah, thats what i thought. Like i said, im gonna wait till the things loose before i do that. Would it be advisable to spray some WD40 or PB in there when im steel-wooling it to loosten the rust?? Also, the pistons appeer to be fine. Theyre just covered in grease. Theyre as rusty as cylender 2 or less.

 

[hillbillyOH]

Hey Dick -- what's that thing on Lanse's block where the thermo housing should be? I don't see anywhere that the radiator hose would connect.

 

[Nebraska Cowman]

Lanse, I'd use a pocket knife in a circular pattern to scrape the rust off. Once you get the pistons moving you may want to use a little sandpaper but don't leave scratches straight up and down. An air gun works good to blow out the crud before you try to turn it over, But PROTECT YOUR EYES You only have two and my dad lived most of his life with only one because of a dumb kid trick.

 

[fixerupper]

Lanse, the cylinder hone idea is a good one. Going down in there with the hone as far as you can go will knock off the tall rust chunks so the piston doesn't hit them when it does finally come up. Another avantage to the hone is it will shine up the parts of the cylinder wall that stick out the most, meaning the wear ridge on the top of the wall, and also you might be able to see some rippling type wear caused by the rings. And finally, if there's a, (OK, breathe deeply before you say it), crack in the sleeve, it might show up a little easier after the hone has shined it up.Good luck, Jim

 

[super99]

I ain't no expert, but it looks like a water pump to me. Clean the crud off of it and there should be some bolts hold it on. Chris

 

[Dick L]

That part would be on the head.

 

[Dick L]

Trying to take the ridge off with a cylinder hone will cause the bottom of the hone to cut deeper into the cylinder wall where you dont want it larger. It will also cut a groove in the stones on the hone. He needs to borrow a ridge reamer from someone.

 

[Dick L]

You are looking at the water pump in his picture.

A different angle of the same type of engine.

 

[hillbillyOH]

Thanks. I was confused!

 

[Lanse]

A who what??

 

[Lanse]

It isnt. Got the wrong kit. Will have to order one then it'll be in in 10-15 days

 

[Lanse]

I took the thermostat housing off and am working on cleaning it up.

 

[big fred]

A ridge reamer is a tool that fits square in the top of the bore and has a cutter that will take out the slight ridge caused by the cylinder wear below the top ring. You can probably rent one from NAPA in a pinch, but if you have an older mechanic friend nearby, you can probably sweet-talk him out of it for this job.

It's the right tool for the job, and easy to use.

 

[DickL]

I have three different types of ridge reamers.
I have the stuff on the link. I still use the 12 buck ridge reamer more than the more expensive ones.
Ridge Reamer At Bottom

 

[Lanse]

What about the wire wheel for a drill?? wouldnt that have the same effect??

 

[Anonymous-0]

A wire wheel won't do any cutting. It will only remove rust and paint. A machine shop could do the job reasonably.

 

[DickL]

Two different subjects. One is removing the rust and crap off of the cylinder walls. Wire wheels, sand paper, ( which like a cylinder hone will leave grit behind)

Subject two is the ridge at the top of the cylinder wall that you will be able to feel by dragging your finger nail from the piston to the top. That lip is usually a little over a 1/4" from the top down. It is where the ring stops on its way up and starts the opposite direction which causes ware below the ridge. This shows you by eye about how much wear is in the cylinder walls.

 

[hillbillyOH]

Scrape the remnants of that head gasket away and see if you have cracks between the cylinders like this:

I don't see a crack in your original pic, but the resolution is pretty low.

 

[Lanse]

uhhhhh. Allright, will do. What do i do if i see any cranks like that??

 

[Anonymous-0]

Clean out all the old pb blaster and just take some 220 or so grit sandpaper and run it in a circular motion around the side of the cylinder as far down as it will go. Clean it out once in a while with some WD-40 to see how it looks. You wont be able to get in there with a cylinder hone. All that will do is get you hurt and the cylinder hone broken. Sand them by hand and be careful and precise and it will turn out cherry. Just don't go up and down with the sandpaper!

 

[trucker40]

I think OLDs idea about heating it up would probly do it.If you had a piece of flat metal you could throw over the cylinder to stop the fire once you got it warmed up.The part I like is that the pistons dont get hot.You would want to be careful and not set the shed on fire,that could get it too hot.The pocket knife idea on the rust going around the cylinder,never up and down the cylinder would maybe do about as good as anything.If you dont find or dont get your hands on a ridge cutter you have to take that carbon out with sandpaper at least.You stand a good chance of breaking a ring or piston land if you dont get that carbon out.The only real good way is with a ridge cutter.That idea with a hone that has a bunch of balls on it is not too good,but a hone that has stones might be a little better.Then again if you dont know a lot about it you can tear up a bunch of stones in a hurry.Whatever you do,you need to clean as much grit as you can possibly get out before you turn over the moter.Grit is bad for you.Maybe get a roll of paper towels and squirt penetrating oil in there and wipe it out 3 or 4 times until you dont wipe much out.Then put a little oil on a paper towel and wipe it on the walls then try and turn it.Get it that clean before you light it and if it turns you will be in better shape.Watch when it turns and if theres a bunch of crud where the piston was,and there will be,clean that out of there before you run the rings across it.

 

[trucker40]

You allways go sideways,not up and down or it will burn oil.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I think fine steel wool would be a good idea too. Could spray some penetrating oil on as well. Less likely to scratch the cylinder too much as well. Dave