Hydraulic fluid in engine oil?

[Anonymous-0]

In trying to find an oil leak on the front of the engine I noticed the engine oil on the dipstick was over full and didn't smell like engine oil. Where is the hydraulic fluid leaking in at? Is it an easy fix? I think this is the oil that is leaking out of the front of the engine and getting on the pullys and flying everywhere. HELP!!!!

 

[Ultradog MN]

You gotta give us more to go on.
What year and model?
Does it have power steering?

 

[Anonymous-0]

1959 871 Diesel with power steering. It has a new/rebuilt SOS tranny. It ran great 3 yrears ago when I decided to strip and paint it. now I'm putting it back together (sheet metal only) and it's leaking, bad.

 

[Greg NE]

Never worked on one of these earlier diesels but if it smells like diesel the return line, or one of the pressure lines under the valve cover could be leaking and draining into the oil pan. Never heard of the hydraulic pump that is driven off of end of camshaft leaking that bad but that could be it also . Only places I can think of. just my two cents worth Greg NE

 

[Anonymous-0]

It doesn't smell like diesel. My rear axel is still full. How do I check my fluid level in the SOS tranny?

 

[Keith Williams]

Rhett,
You have 5 different fluid reservoirs on that tractor (at least) from back:
Rear end
Hydraulic
Trans
Engine oil
Fuel
?? Power steering?? If so equipped.

Did you check the "rear end" or did you check the Hydraulic?
The Hydraulic pump can fail and put fluid into the engine. Mine did that last fall. Small cone type spring failed and allowed back pressure into the pump.
To look at an owner's manual for that tractor, go to the (read from bottom up)
.com
club
tractor
n
www.
Then look in the manuals section.
HTH
Keith

 

[Larry NCKS]

The SOS transmission cannot convey fluid to the engine. The hydraulic pump can.

The SOS level is checked at a pipe plug below and to the front of the right foot rest.

The hydraulic level is checked at the dipstick on the left side of the center housing and is the only other oil compartment that could possibly be losing oil to the engine.

The rear end level is checked at a pipe plug on the rear of the left trumpet housing.

 

[Rhett UT]

Hello Larry. I was excited to see your post to help me. The common idea is that fuel injector pump is leaking fuel into the oil pan. They say to replace two umbrella seals and an o ring. My gut tells me I"m going to screw this up if I can"t watch a video of someone doing it. Can I send it somewhere to have this done? Better yet, do you know anybody in Utah that can help me in my shop? I"m getting desperate!

 

[Greg NE]

If you think it's a diesel fuel leak I would go ahead and pull the valvecover off first to make sure it's not leaking from a line under there. Lot easier and cheaper fix than the pump. just my 2 cents worth Greg NE

 

[Larry NCKS]

(quoted from post at 00:51:57 12/28/11) Hello Larry. I was excited to see your post to help me. The common idea is that fuel injector pump is leaking fuel into the oil pan. They say to replace two umbrella seals and an o ring. My gut tells me I"m going to screw this up if I can"t watch a video of someone doing it. Can I send it somewhere to have this done? Better yet, do you know anybody in Utah that can help me in my shop? I"m getting desperate!

Rhett,

Fuel dilution is more likely than hydraulic oil dilution in your crankcase. I had thought from previous posts, however, that you were fairly certain fuel was not your problem.

If now you think it may be, and you are not a bit familiar with diesel, I'd find a reputable diesel shop and bite the bullet to have it done. Otherwise, the two most critical things about working on a diesel are timing and cleanliness.

I'd bet on the pump seals, but it could be return lines or injectors as well.

If you plan to remove your pump, first remove the timing window cover and line the timing marks in the pump. This will much simplify its reinstallation. If you remove the pump driveshaft, pay critical attention to its orientation in the pump.

Also, your pump likely wants a governor ring, so a minor overhaul is in order.

Somewhere . . . in the archives . . . is a more detailed article that I wrote on Roosa Master (Stanadyne) pump minor overhaul.

 

[Larry NCKS]

Here's the post i wrote 7 years ago entitled "Roosa OH"
Topic: Roosa OH
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Larry NCKS
04-17-2005 14:19:45
68.93.195.141



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Hi guys,
If you've never done one of these, they can be a bit tricky, but I'll try to help. Above all else clean the area off as best as possible. Once you take the pump off the engine clean it again. When you take it apart keep it absolutely clean. I soaked mine in carb cleaner overnight, then rinsed in under flowinc water and blew it out with compressed air.

Remove all fuel and injector lines. If there's fuel in the tank, you'll need a suitable container to catch fuel as it drains from the return line. You can shut off supply line at the bottom of the tank.

Guys that do this all the time say it's not necessary, but I like to have the # 1 cylinder on the timing mark before removal. There is a small cover on the side of the injection pump approx an inch long and half inch wide. It is held on by two really short screws. Remove it. Behind it is a really finely scribed line on the head and on the governor. They can be very difficult to see, but line them up by turning the engine. The final alignment most likely will need to be done by turning the engine with a wrench.

When the marks are lined up, remove the two nuts and washers that fasten the pump to the engine. You will also need to remove the throttle linkage from the pump shaft. Pull the pump up and off the engine.

Fasten the pump in a suitable vise or holding fixture. Be careful not to damage the housing.

Remove the bolts that secure the top cover and remove the cover. Pay strict attention to the linkage and how it is assembled in the chamber under this cover. Remove the long bolt from the backside, the J and C clips from the throttle shaft and remove linkage parts and metering valve from the pump. The final piece of linkage will come out in a later step.

Remove the advance piston assemblies from the bottom of the housing. These are the large hex plugs on either side. Mark these per side, as they are not identical. Remove the plug from the bottom of this chamber.

Now the tough part: If your pump has (and most of them do} the splined stud, you'll either need the special bristol bit tool to remove it, or you can fashion one from a T-45 torx bit. Grind the splines down unitl the T-45 fits the splines of the stud. Don't over grind it. DON'T TRY THIS WITHOUT THIS STEP. THE STUD WILL SHATTER AND BE VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE IF PROPER TOOL IS NOT USED.

Remove the four screws that retain the charge pump to the back of the head. Notice the orietation of the eccentric pump ring. It is marked CC on one side and C on the other. You'll need to replace it in the same orientation at reassembly.

Remove the two capscrews and the hollow stud that retain the hydraulic head to the housing. Twist/ pull the head from the pump. You may need to get forceful in this step.

The governor assembly is attached to the front of the head by a snap ring. It may not come out as a unit if your governor retainer ring is gone. AGAIN IT IS CRITICAL TO PAY ATTENTION TO THIS ASSEMBLY. It is timed to the head (there are fine marks on the head and governor plate) and the weights and trust washer must go back as they came out. You'll see three rivet looking pegs on this part of the governor and three on the front piece. The rubber retainer ring remnants must be removed and the new reatainer ring stretched around these posts. A small snap ring plier works best to install the new ring. Install the ring with the + marks out. The peg holes are slightly recessed on this side.

The drive shaft can be removed at any time after the pump is off the engine. This shaft is timed to the head as well. Do not get it in backwards. Pay special attetion to the cup seals. The face away from each other. Be careful not to roll the back one as you reinstall the pump.

Assembly is essentially the reverse of removal.

New seal kits are available from any Stanadyne Authorized Diesel shop for around thirty dollars. These include a new governor ring and more orings and parts than you'll find places for.

If you have questions: BrotherBear2188 at AOL dot COM Hope this helps



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Larry NCKS
04-23-2005 03:22:51
205.188.117.69



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Several further things I should add:
Take care not to flip the roller cam over. It is directional.

Do not change the settings of the screws in the leaf springs on the rotor. This will change the fuel delivery rate.

The rotor can be removed from the head by taking the clip and half moon keepers off the back end. It should not be neccesary to take this apart for most overhauls.

 

[showcrop]

I would like to second Greg NE's suggestion simply because it is so much quicker and easier. Though it may look like you need to remove the fuel tank in order to remove the valve cover, this is not the case. The cover is formed so that it will roll out to the right.

 

[Rhett in UT]

I have confirmed that it is diesel fuel. I have the valve cover off and have wiped everything down with starting fluid so the leak would be fresh. But nothing looks to be leaking. does anybody have any pictures of what could be leaking or what I should be looking for? Thanks!