hydraulic lift problem

[Anonymous-0]

Now I must pick Inno's brain. And Sam, David's, everyones!
I started a thread on the Harry Forum, but it seems to be hung on oil labels. The 3 point 'looked' like it was working when I moved the tractor into possition to start working on it. Bought the TO35 six months ago, the lift seemed to work OK before I paid him, seemed to look OK when I moved it last month, the oil was a real chocolate milk shake, an axle seal was leaking and a lower link pin was broken.
So when that was all set I pour 8 gallons of coastal and other left overs in. THEN I noticed the lift only rose half way, with a little shutter. I can lift it to the top by hand, but they drop back to halfway. So I went to the old MF dealer and bought the proper '90 weight mineral oil'. Which is where the Harry forum is stuck at.
Anyway, the lift is the same Now, was it always weak? And I didn't bother to test it? Or did I do something wrong in the operation? Thanks.

 

[Inno]

I assume you have tried both the position and the draft levers? I think (and I'd have to confirm this on mine) when the draft lever is down too far the position lever will not allow the arms to come all the way up.
The two controls perform essentially do the same thing in two different ways (if that makes any sense), the position lever with your input and the draft lever with your input AND input from the draft "plunger".
It may just need some adjustment. John (UK) has good instructions on this or I can email them to you as I think I still have them saved in my email. You will have to remove the lift cover to do the fine tuning and it is a very fine tuning to get it right. I followed his directions to the letter and I believe my lift is functioning 100% correctly.

Oh, and I used 90wt GL1 mineral oil in mine from Napa. I believe John has said you could/should use 30wt engine oil as it's viscosity remains "usable" over a wider range of temperatures. I have a feeling that in the middle of winter my tractor will require a LOT of warm up time before the hydraulics are usable. The 90wt mineral oil seems pretty syrupy even at 70-80F. It's pretty sticky stuff!

 

[DavidP, South Wales]

Hi, correct me if I am wrong but there seems to be a pre-occupation with many on the site about using SAE 90 grade oil in transmissions. I have an operators manual for the North American 165 and worldwide oil and climate specs for 100 series tractors. Other than being used in the epicyclic reduction units on 165 upwards tractors I can't see any evidence that MF recommend SAE 90 oil for the transmission.
SAE 90 will bring its own problems especially in lower temperatures. Oils meeting MF M-1129 have all the necessary ingredients to cover a wide range of temperatures and maintain their operating characteristics.

DavidP, South Wales

 

[Jerry/MT]

Sorry Tony. I didn"t mean to get your post side tracked. I saw "gear oil" and to me that"s the Gl-4 and GL-5 stuff and you really don"t want that in your tractor.

John (UK) has instructions for the TO-35 hydraulics and he"d be a good resource to get a hold of on this problem. It"s mostlikely adjustment related. I"m pretty familiar with the TO-20 and 30, but the TO-35 three point hydraulics are a different animal.

Sorry again to have side tracked your initial post. Not my intention.

 

[Inno]

The manual for my 202 Workbull states 90wt straight mineral oil. I will check to be sure this evening what the exact wording is but I think what I have written is very close.

 

[DavidP, South Wales]

Hi Tony,
If the 3-pt is lifting part way then it seems unlikely that you have an oil problem. If iw will only lift to halfway for example consistently it would suggest that there is an imbalance between the components in the internal linkage.

When the engine is running and a setting for the position control is selected the 3-pt will move to this and it can now be said that the system is in balance. Move the PC lever and the 3-pt will respond. It will be temporarily out of balance but will quickly resume its position. When the PC lever is fully raised the 3-pt will rise fully (must not be tight at full lift) and the pump will be put into neutral.

I suspect that your full lift neutral point is occurring at around halfway. This is most likely due to bent roller linkage or jamming rollers.
It will be necessary to remove the hyd cover. A good workshop manual (pref MF gen) will be required to carry out the adjustments and to act as a guide for a visual check for anything damaged or wrong.

DavidP, South Wales

 

[samn40]

I agree with all David has said, it has to be either internal linkage problems or you are not using the quadrant levers correctly. And as for this 90 gear oil......well I could be nearly sure the only place in the World that uses it in MF tracors is the good ole US of A. And from what I hear any oil can get thick and syrupy in the winters there !. I have done many, many hours doing custom/contract work for other farmers and put up very high hours on my MF tractors only using super universal in the trans and could count on three fingers all the hydraulic/ tranny problems I have ever had. So I am happy enough to go along with my MF operators manual and fill the rear end with UTF, STOU, SUTO or what ever the brand name is , just as long as it is 15W30
Sam

 

[Anonymous-0]

The seals on the stand up tube may be bad. I have also seen lift cylinders and Pistons that have rusted from sitting for a period of time.

I suggest that you remove the block on top of the hydraulic lift cover & pull the stand tube to inspect the seals. If they appear to be good then remove the top cover to inspect the lift cylinder and piston.

 

[Tony in Mass.]

Now we are on the road to re-covery... or is it cover removal?
Some good ideas popping up, easiest is playing with the quadrant? Next is VT's idea of checking the o-rings on the plate? Anything else is under the cover, and I see there is a dvd for sale here on this subject? worth getting? Hey I already spent $120 on # 9.... oh no, not going there again! I will take a pic of the label on the pail tomorrow, but I don't want to get into the guts of it at this point in time, things might get wet or lost in my absense... one of us deserves a vaction!

 

[Inno]

If it were me I'd remove the tube (as external_links has said) and check the seals. Quick and easy if that cures it.
If that doesn't work then the lift cover would be next on the list. Have someone over for a Black Label to give you a hand, that cover is HEAVY!! Give him the Black Label after the work is done though, wouldn't want anyone getting hurt.