Hydraulic toplink advice

[Texasmark]

Agreed, that was the point I was trying to make in regard to Texasmark's comment in his post (#3) about the hydraulic top link's length changing and his manual one being "set it and forget it"; however poorly I worded it.

.

I didn't intend to start a lengthy physics ordeal. I just mentioned my reaction when I was thinking about using a hydraulic vs manual. I had the cylinders and the ports on the tractors, just never did it.

 

[Ozlander]

OK, it causes the top link to "try to compress" which causes the heat.

And also causes it to decompress.

 

[TheOldHokie]

And also causes it to decompress.

Which on a locked DA cylinder is also compression in the opposite direction

Hmmmm.... maybe I misunderstood your meaning....

TOH

 

[dcarp]

Top links are nearly always sized not by the length but by category. 0; 1; 2; 3, etc. they are all adjusted for different implements. Your 851 takes a cat 1. Your hyd. unit needs to be sized the same way.

I use one frequently. Just used one with my rear bale forks to move round bales. Back up, spear the bale lift it and shorten the top link and off you go. Bale will never fall off because the angle is towards the tractor. I also use it on rear blades & disks to level & change angles. One of the best purchases I have made. And no, once it’s set for length it does not change.

 

[Vince/PA]

I put one on my naa 15 years ago. Very handy item. Got it from Northern Hydraulics, category 1. It works fine and stays where you set it.

 

[Ultradog MN]

I have been using hydrauljc top links for a long time and would cry if I had to go back to the manual type.
Click below for a short video I made some years ago. To reverse this 8' blade with a manual top link I had to drop the blade, drive around to the other side and remount it.
Hydraulic top link made it so much easier to reverse.

 

[Ultradog MN]

I have been using hydrauljc top links for a long time and would cry if I had to go back to the manual type.
Click below for a short video I made some years ago. To reverse this 8' blade with a manual top link I had to drop the blade, drive around to the other side and remount it.
Hydraulic top link made it so much easier to reverse.

PS, I made my own. Used a heavy duty hyd cylinder and cut the swivel balls off a manual top link and welded them on.
This one is Cat 2 but I made them for my Cat 1 tractors too.

 

[Texasmark]

Well, if fluid didn't change volume.....attempt to change volume with temperature changes (pressure increase in particular), why did Frontier make a male connector with a pin vs a ball bearing seal. They even explain their reasoning if you go to a sale site and read the caption associated with that type connector.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Well, if fluid didn't change volume.....attempt to change volume with temperature changes (pressure increase in particular), why did Frontier make a male connector with a pin vs a ball bearing seal. They even explain their reasoning if you go to a sale site and read the caption associated with that type connector.

Nobody has said fluid does not change volume with temperature. They have said that iside a locked DA cylinder that does not alter the length the cylinder.

Conical versus ball poppet is for a higher flow.rating which is actually just less pressure drop across the tip. What does that have to do with thermal expansion?

TOH

 

[Bennevis]

I have been using hydrauljc top links for a long time and would cry if I had to go back to the manual type.
Click below for a short video I made some years ago. To reverse this 8' blade with a manual top link I had to drop the blade, drive around to the other side and remount it.
Hydraulic top link made it so much easier to reverse.

awesome!!!

 

[paul]

Nobody has said fluid does not change volume with temperature. They have said that iside a locked DA cylinder that does not alter the length the cylinder.

Conical versus ball poppet is for a higher flow.rating which is actually just less pressure drop across the tip. What does that have to do with thermal expansion?

TOH

There is a poppet male connector with a tiny movable pin that is designed for releasing the built up pressure. They are a little hard to find, but are perfect for a hyd top link that might often build up pressure sitting in the Minnesota changing climate where we go from near 100 degrees to near 20 below most years. Just sitting out in the sun one afternoon can cause a normal male connector to lock up….

Anyhow, he is talking about that ‘fancy’ connector, not the simple ones you mention.

The little pin one works well, I got them on my top link and kind of forget that I don’t have problems now.

If you have the hydraulics available, get a hyd top link. They are very very nice to use. Makes hooking stuff up a breeze. Implements that can benefit from adjustment on the go are so much nicer to run.

Get one with the check valves as pictured up a ways. They keep the top link where you set it even if your tractor hydraulics leak a little.

Forgetting about all the science: a hyd top link will not move or change on its own. Unless there are no check valves and if your tractor hyd controls are leaking. It might move a few thousandths of an inch but not so it will ever be noticed. I have 2 hyd top links and am ordering a 3rd, they are very handy and make 3pt implement use so much nicer. Got one over a decade ago, wow it has been nice on the little utility loader tractor where I change implements a lot.

Paul

 

[TheOldHokie]

There is a poppet male connector with a tiny movable pin that is designed for releasing the built up pressure. They are a little hard to find, but are perfect for a hyd top link that might often build up pressure sitting in the Minnesota changing climate where we go from near 100 degrees to near 20 below most years. Just sitting out in the sun one afternoon can cause a normal male connector to lock up….

Anyhow, he is talking about that ‘fancy’ connector, not the simple ones you mention.

The little pin one works well, I got them on my top link and kind of forget that I don’t have problems now.

If you have the hydraulics available, get a hyd top link. They are very very nice to use. Makes hooking stuff up a breeze. Implements that can benefit from adjustment on the go are so much nicer to run.

Get one with the check valves as pictured up a ways. They keep the top link where you set it even if your tractor hydraulics leak a little.

Forgetting about all the science: a hyd top link will not move or change on its own. Unless there are no check valves and if your tractor hyd controls are leaking. It might move a few thousandths of an inch but not so it will ever be noticed. I have 2 hyd top links and am ordering a 3rd, they are very handy and make 3pt implement use so much nicer. Got one over a decade ago, wow it has been nice on the little utility loader tractor where I change implements a lot.

Paul

There are plenty of couplers that you can connect/disconnect under full pressure. I use these. Pretty standard on modern machines.

 

[paul]

There are plenty of couplers that you can connect/disconnect under full pressure. I use these. Pretty standard on modern machines.

This is the type I’m talking about. You mentioned the standard ball and the higher flow poppit.

The one with the little center pin allows simple easy connection even with pressure on the line.

Paul

 

[TheOldHokie]

This is the type I’m talking about. You mentioned the standard ball and the higher flow poppit.

The one with the little center pin allows simple easy connection even with pressure on the line.

Paul

Thanks. I was not familiar with those tips. Looks like the little valve can only relieve the implement side.

I am sure Parker also offers a coupler just like the Faster couplers which work with any vanilla tip. Here is a little Fergie with factory outlets - connect/disconnect under pressure and dust covers that collect and recover any spillage.

TOH