If you wrapped a heat tape on your air compressor...

[lastcowboy32]

Where would you wrap it?

I have a 150PSI, 20 gallon vertical tank compressor.

During the coldest part of the year, I use it night and morning to blow out a hose that we use to water the cows, so that it can't freeze in between chores.

Anyway, when it's below about 10 degrees, it's a pain. It takes multiple attempts to get going, and if I don't sit on it... as in plug/unplug it as it tries spinning up... it pops the breaker.

I checked the oil and added a little synthetic, cold weather oil.

I also, had a six foot heat tape in the barn, brand new. So, I wrapped it around the crankcase, and plugged it in for about a 1/2 hour before I needed the compressor. That didn't seem to help.

It would seem that, the cylinder where the heat fins are would be the thing to wrap. But, that's kind of hard to do, there is a plastic shroud in the way.

I was thinking about cutting a box out to fit over the top, when I plug in the heat tape

So... critiques?

 

[Loosehandle]

Heat lamp aimed at cylinder, plug in
awhile before starting

 

[lastcowboy32]

So, cylinder temperature matters more than the viscosity/temperature of oil in the crankcase?

Seems reasonable.

 

[Steve@Advance]

I would start with an oil change, go with full synthetic reciprocating compressor oil, toward the light viscosity end of the factory recommendation.

Then if that doesn't do it, heat the entire compressor area with a timed heat lamp or some type infrared heater.

 

[504]

Build a box out of rigid insulation board,use duct tape to hold it together,a thirty watt regular light bulb and you a nice heated closet for your compressor, (lay the bulb on the concrete floor). You can put the bulb on a timer or my favorite is a thermostat for a baseboard heater(they are rated for 115V,put it inline)

 

[redforlife]

You don't need to blow water hose out
with air pressure. You just need to
simply drain water out of the hose
when your done using it. And you don't
need air pressure for that. I water
cows when it is to cold for my air
compressor to even work. So why bother
with it???

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 23:53:14 01/11/22) You don't need to blow water hose out
with air pressure. You just need to
simply drain water out of the hose
when your done using it. And you don't
need air pressure for that. I water
cows when it is to cold for my air
compressor to even work. So why bother
with it???

Correct, however without knowing if it is laid out and taken in every time, or how the hose is routed, draining it may not be an simple, easy option. If it stays in place and has any sags, blowing it out may be needed. Rerouting, if possible, might help if it stays in place. We had a hose in place for winter watering and were able to route it uphill from the pump to a high point in the peak of a shed, then down to the tub, with no sags deep enough to hold water, on either side. As long as it was unhooked from the pump spigot as soon as shut off, it naturally drained (tub end had to be clear of the water) both sides of the high point and there was no freeze up issue.

As for warming the compressor, I am with the build an enclosure around the compressor and use a light bulb group. Heating the area, around it will warm the oil and the cylinder.

 

[Determined]

1/2 hour of heat is no where near long enough to do any good if it is real cold out.

My 5 HP 80 gal compressor sits in an unheated area and it had all the same problems yours is having.

I drained the oil out and put in 0 30 synthetic a few years ago, it now starts in minus 40 without too much grunting.

Other thing you can try is dump the air from the compressor tank when you finish using it, this way when you go to restart it there will be little to no load on it and it will have a chance to limber up before it starts building pressure/resistance.

 

[lastcowboy32]

(quoted from post at 09:07:52 01/11/22) I would start with an oil change, go with full synthetic reciprocating compressor oil, toward the light viscosity end of the factory recommendation.

Then if that doesn't do it, heat the entire compressor area with a timed heat lamp or some type infrared heater.

So, I didn't have time to go and get an infrared heater before I went home last night. What I did do was something simple. I grabbed a small blanket that we used to use for the dog to lay on that we were going to throw out.

When I went in the barn to feed hay, I wrapped the heat tape on the compressor, folded the blanket so that it was about four layers thick, and covered the top of the compressor.

About 45 minutes later, when we were done feeding and watering, the compressor started like normal... no problems. Outside air temperature was a couple degrees below zero, and the high for the day was only 5. So... I'd say that worked pretty well.

As for not needing to blow out the line... it's 120 feet long, and cold, stiff hose doesn't lay flat. I'm not going to just grab one end and walk along it to make sure the water runs out. It would only take a little mistake to leave some water in a loop, and then I would be screwed. Blowing out the line is just an extra measure of insurance.

 

[redforlife]

120 feet?? I think building some fence
up to the water source, or installing
an underground water line with hydrant
where your tank is at would be in
order.

 

[wore out]

Why don't you get a heated garden hose? Yes, I know they are not cheap, but sure would save a lot of mucking around!

 

[SVcummins]

I have 300 feet of water line to blow out I use. Little pancake
compressor works Just dandy never had it not want to start
though . What about a heat gun you could warm up the
compressor with