IG 444 hydraulic filter

[INCase]

Thank you for this post. It'll help when I get that far.

Is the filter barrel possibly warped & causing resistance when pulling the plate out?

Mike

I don't think it can warp. I suspect it has never been taken apart (wife's grandfather was not a mechanic or carpenter). but it didn't go back in easily either even with the old O-ring

the "plate" (more of a plug than plate) does have a bit of original paint that looked like it dripped/ran inside and I did scrape some of that off but still hard to get in/out. wouldn't hurt to take some scotch bright to it once I get the O-ring and a spare minute (right) and take a punch to try to line it up.
Will try to remember to take a slide hammer too to help get it off. To get it out the 1st time i had to put a bolt in the hole in the plate and give it some love taps sideways and up and down and pull on it to encourage it to come out.

 

[INCase]

Thank you for this post. It'll help when I get that far.

Is the filter barrel possibly warped & causing resistance when pulling the plate out?

Mike

update.

the O-ring for the hydraulic filter for tractors with remote is NLA at Napa too. however it is easy to get from Grainger or McMaster-Carr. the Grainger PN is

O-Ring: Viton®, Round, 3/32 in C.S., 1 13/16 in I.D., Not FDA Compliant, 10 PK Item 2KAU3 Mfr. Model GR-V90133/10​

and are $8 for a pack of 10 at 90A durometer they have other durometer options available.

McMaster Carr has quite a few options with various durometer and temperature ratings. you have to buy 100 packs but they are about $8 as well plus $12 shipping. for a 70A durometer . They have other Durometers each with varying package sizes from 10 to 50

i wasn't sure what durometer the original might be. went with a 90A

Mercury Marine has one that size but none of the local dealers had one and weren't interested in ordering one. Some Stanley/Bostich air tools use it as well. I think McMaster or Grainger have the best options but the shipping is kind high $ but no one local seems to have anything.

 

[INCase]

UPDATE Finally had a couple minutes to get it all back together. Hopefully this info will be handy for others with 444's or 424's (or 2444s or 2424s)

ended up getting a slide hammer (harborr frieght) to help get the "plate" out of the end of the hydraulic filter housing with an extra pair of hands and light holder I was able to finagle getting the bolt hole in the plate lined up. also scotch brighted up the "plate" as it had a bit of rust and some paint in it that I'm sure didn't help getting it in/out. had to wiggle and turn and push and pull the plate a bit to get the hole to line up. if not lined up just right the bolt will not go in. would have been nice if the bolt would have been vertical. as it is no room between filter and dash or transmission plate on the other side.

Hole missaligned

a punch would help (had one that helped but was too small diameter AND marking the plate and the housing before removal would be a good idea too.

The I got is filter. others are available

For the suction screen. As mentioned before I had no luck with getting a new one or even a used one. soaked the old screen in gas for about a month and i still could not get the crud out of it.
So I got one of the ones that is available new that is 3/4" tube versus 1" and is a long tube and has a dog leg in it. and decided there is No way to make that work without some major monkeying around. so i decided since the epoxy failed on the original and the screen came out of the tube/plate i could do the same thing and heat up the new screen (not too hot) and melt/burn the epoxy in that and remove it from the tube/plate that doesn't work and epoxy the new screen it into the original tube/plate. Used JBweld "tank epoxy" to do it. Debated about a few things and had a few suggestions for epoxy (see RedPower post) but those were either NLA or very difficult to get. the "tank epoxy" says its ok for continuous exposure to oil.

original tube/plate

new tube/plate

new screen removed from new tube/plate

New filter epoxied in old tube/plate

put new hydraulic oil in and started her up. within a few seconds the blade on the back lifted up and a few seconds later the Power steering started working. So a successful repair. (until it wouldn't start due to bad negative cable).

 

[INCase]

forgot, here is the O-ring for the Plate/tube to go into the hydraulic reservoir. was actually less $ as the CaseIH dealer than anywhere else.