Ignition problem on my Massey

[Steve Forrest]

Model 30:

Running, but poorly. Appears to be firing on cylinder 1&4 only - those two plugs are fouled - the other two are wet but not warm after running. I have replaced the cap, rotor, points, plugs, wires, condenser & coil - still the same. Battery connection is good (connected battery directly to coil).

Anyone seen this before? Everything checks out as OK, seems to be lots of gas. It does run but not the greatest.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Steve.

 

[Jerry/MT]

What is the conditon of the shaft and bushing on the distibutor? Rotate the engine til the points close and then push radially (side to side) on the distributor shaft, watching the points. Push from several different directions. Is there so much play in the shaft and bushing that the points open partially? If so, the distributor needs to be rebushed.

 

[Steve Forrest]

Should also have mentioned the tractor was running well last spring and I have not changed anything to cause this (well, not that I recall anyways).

I checked the distributor shaft - it is solid, no side-play. It rotates 5-10 degrees (as it should) to advance the spark. I checked the continuity of the points at the four places there should be and the four places there shouldn't - all checked out as expected.

Steve.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Do you have continuity from the distributor cap to the affected spark plugs? How about the firing order? Is that correct? The baffling thing is that #1 & #4 fire and that would seem to take the primary ignition circuit out of the equation.

Whats the fouling on #1 #4 look like? Wet and oily or dry and fluffy?

Maybe it's time to check the compression.

 

[Steve Forrest]

haha I have an answer for everything....

#1 sparkplug is wet and oily - #4 is dry & fluffy. Firing order is correct - I am very careful with that, 1342.

Compression is 100-110 on all four cylinders.

 

[JerryMT]

What about continuity on the plug wires from inside of cap to plugs on #2 & #3? Are they copper core plug wires?

 

[Anonymous-0]

Steve, I went through all the same problems with my 22 a couple years ago. Replaced everything new, etc. Turns out that the "new" coil was a dud, and caused all my havoc. Try a good known coil from another tractor & see what happens. Sam

 

[Steve Forrest]

I took the coil and wires from my Ford (which runs well) so I am (fairly) sure they are fine, but you never know.

 

[Bob N.Y.]

Have you tried swapping the plug wires between cylinders 2 & 3?

 

[Steve Forrest]

Still no resolution on this problem. I have even taken the inspection cover off the right side of the engine to look at the valve springs - they all seem to be moving correctly.

Good thing the Ford runs - would have a heck of a time clearing 250' of snow with a shovel!

 

[Mark Rupert]

I had this very problem today with my MH44GS. After changing plugs, wires, points it got better but the problem was the main jet on the carb was turned open way to much by someone (me)
I reset it and the problem was gone. It was running too too rich and 2 &3 cylinders would not fire-cold plugs,1&4 worked properly and were too hot to touch. All is well now with the carb adjustment. MR

 

[Steve Forrest]

If anyone is still watching this post - I finally solved the problem. All of the ignition parts are new - including the Champion plugs - still didn"t start. So, someone suggested I try AC Delco plugs. Changed the plugs and in -9C weather the tractor fired up and ran well.

I have a hard time believing that the type of plug made the difference, since I have been running Champion plugs for years now. But, it runs, and the driveway is being plowed with a *front* blade rather than the back blade, so all is good.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions.