IH 384 Diesel

[AC1]

I have a 1980 IH 384 diesel that I have been unable to start. I am getting fuel to the Lucas CAV DAP injector pump but none to the injectors. From what I have been able to find on the net so far there is a possibility that either the fuel cutoff is stuck or the metering valve might be clogged. I removed the fuel shutoff connecting rod and when operated the lever by hand. It has no resistance. Should I be able to feel something when the shutoff operates?
The tractor has set for several years so I suspect the metering valve could be clogged. The post on the fuel control post i.s bent so not sure how I can get the top cover off to check out either issue but will have to cross that bridge if necessary. The previous owner had the injector pump rebuilt several years ago so I am hoping a stuck valve is my problem and want to exhaust the less expensive and easier fixes before I go down the injector pump rabbit hole.
Also the ignition switch is bad and the original owner added a push button switch to start the tractor. When the switch is turned on the glow plugs are energized and it appears they will stay energized as long as the switch is in the on position. The original switch has 5 terminals and I have been unable to locate an exact replacement. I have found a five position switch but the terminal are in a different order. Do I need to get a five position switch and figure out how to connect it or should I get a 4 position switch and rewire the ignition? Thanks for any replies.

 

[used red MN]

Hello AC1 welcome to YT! Let’s see if someone replies to this tomorrow about your pump. If not I will recommend a gentleman you can contact. I will have to look back in my posts. I recently helped someone else with a “glow plug capable” ignition switch. I know there was a switch available for their application. I’ll try to check back here tomorrow.

 

[Dieseltech]

If engine has not run for awhile I'll bet there are stuck parts inside from setting. I just tore down a CAV Perkins pump yesterday for the same reason and found metering valve and rotor plungers were stuck. A complete tear down and cleaning will get it working fine again on the test stand.

 

[JimB2]

Hi AC1, welcome to YT, see photo below of original style 384 Ignition Switch with 5 Terminals
Re Ignition switch, the original switch was p/n 3109707R91 with 5 terminals and CIH wanted about $240.00 US for them but now they are no longer available unless you find a CIH dealer with old stock. The replacement is a 4 Terminal Switch with 3 Positions, Heat, ON, Start same as MF 135/165 tractors. This switch is available on this site under IH/ Farmall 434 Starter Switch, see link below. Installation of the 4 Terminal Switch requires either removing or taping off the wire that went to terminal #5 or the glow plugs will burn out.

Depending where you live this switch will work OK, but if you are in northern US States or Canada and use the 384 in the winter, I would recommend upgrade all the glow plugs with the new fast heat version with a controller for 4 cyl Mercedes Diesel engines.


Link to 4 Terminal Switch: https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Farmall-434_Starter-Switch-with-Keys_883928M1.html

Link to Mercedes glow plug upgrade: https://mercedessource.com/store/19...low-plug-upgrade-w-manual-push-button-control

If you want to know more detail about the glow plug wiring on your 384, repost.

 

[AC1]

Jim does that switch not put voltage to the glow plugs at all. I live in SE Texas so not sure how often the glow plugs are really needed. I would like the tractor to work as designed by IH but don't want to spend 178.00 plus shipping to get it.

 

[Janicholson]

Jim does that switch not put voltage to the glow plugs at all. I live in SE Texas so not sure how often the glow plugs are really needed. I would like the tractor to work as designed by IH but don't want to spend 178.00 plus shipping to get it.

relay
A relay designed for high amps would work off of the starter circuit. Jim

 

[JimB2]

Hi with reference to photo below, back in the late 1960s I converted my Dad's early B414D to be like his newer 434 Diesel and the newer models, 444 and 384. On the B414D it had a GP Switch on the dash that you held until GPI glowed red then push the Starter lever. In really cold weather like we get up here in Canada when the Starter engages it draws the Battery voltage down on the Input to GPI so now the voltage to the GPs has dropped to about 3-4 Volts and the GPs go cold. With the 5 Terminal Ignition Switch, when the Ignition switch is moved to the START position terminal #5 is activated and the Battery voltage is applied directly to the GPs bypassing the GPI, so on real cold days the Battery voltage when cranking the Starter will drop to 6-8V but that will keep the GPs glowing.
Now if you replace the 5 Terminal Switch with the 4 Terminal Switch the wire on Term #5 with the Red slashes through it has to removed as it will put too much voltage on the GPs when the Starter is not engaged. The voltage at the output of the GPI should be about one half the battery voltage (6V) when the Starter is not engaged.

For you in Texas, the 4 Terminal switch would work good. These old indirect injection Diesel engines require a little glow plugging on the first start of the day even if outside air temp is 70* F. You don't have to hold the switch on Heat mode for more than 10 seconds when in warm temperatures for the first start of the day. You will learn how much time it takes in your area.

Hope you understand my explanation
Jim

 

[used red MN]

Just so you know and ad you can probably tell Dieseltech who replied above runs a pump repair shop. Many on here send their pumps to him to be worked on, he is in Indiana. I understand his rates are very reasonable and he does quality work. You can start a direct conversation with him by hovering your mouse over his profile banner above his reply a click “Start Conversations.” On a phone you need to click his user name to open it.

 

[AC1]

I have a couple more questions. When I shut down the tractor should I leave the kill rod in the kill position or push it back in to the run position?
Also I have a light on the back right fender. The wires going to the rear head light and tail light were broken and I am in the process of reconnecting them. There is a switch on the right side of the dash that operates the light. There is a black ground wire that works for both the tail light and the work light on the fender. There is a double barrel connector that when connected to the tail lights they seem to work fine. When I connect the wire for the tail lights to the work light it is nice and bright but when I connect the work light to the switch on the dash it seems to be much dimmer? I only have a wiring diagram for a couple different tractor from the shop manual and it shows three wires to the work light. Not sure how to wire it up to work properly.
My light switch only has three positions - off and two on's. Not sure what the difference in the two on positions.

 

[used red MN]

I am not sure, but I think it is a fair guess that someone added the switch for the rear light. So this would indicate to me the wiring they added is not sized adequately.

 

[AC1]

The wiring is color coded and looks original.

 

[JimB2]

Re Plough Light as our UK farmers call it, see photo below of IH 384 Dash Switches.
I am going from memory from 1981 - 1991 of the 384 on my Dad's and brother's farm.
Switch Item # 9-10, on one position it turned on the two fender lights plus the plough light, on the other position it made the two fender lights flash and the plough light was off. It is not uncommon for Item #9 flasher unit to fail and not flash.
I will talk with my brother later tonight to see if he remembers more as he drove the 384 doing feeding cows every day. When I was helping in those years, I mostly drove the 684 and 454 tractors.
Re Leaving Stop/Kill position OUT or IN,
A couple thoughts, if you have small children around, leave it Pulled Out or take the Key out of the Ignition switch or have a battery Cut-Out switch. Pushed IN, if you are leaving the tractor parked for a long time so the metering valve is not stuck closed but using a Diesel fuel conditioner or a couple table spoons of 2 cycle engine oil in the fuel tank at every fill will also prevent a stuck metering valve.
Hope this helps.