Just got done adding a 3 point hitch to my 460U with dual lift cylinders. Everything seemed to working correctly, lots of lifting power, starts/idles great, revs up (although extremely fast) until I got it hooked up to a heavy PTO load.
Fairly quickly I noticed the hydraulic return line was getting hot, hot enough I could barely hold my hand on it and the whole trans case was getting hot. I have a 7' flail that the tractor could not power through in low gear through lawn grass. The tractor should have twice the power required as my smaller 30hp/1.3L diesel pulled this same flail twice as easy as the 460. Tractor bogged down and noticed after maybe 15-20 minutes of messing with it that the coolant was near overheating as well.
I suspect that the hydraulic pump is running constantly causing the fluid to get hot. The hydraulics did not seem to lose any power during this time though. [b:c8ba323d55]Would the pump running 100% cause the lack of power though? What about loading the engine enough to get near overheating? [/b:c8ba323d55]
I did have all of the hydraulic valve bodies off and partially disassembled for new o-rings and gaskets. The orifice screen was not dirty but did clean it anyway. Prior to that I flushed the hytran and put in a new filter, which was almost completely plugged.
A few things I did could potentially be causing an issue. The original single cylinder used the 2 ports rear ward of the battery box but the hardlines also had two plugs closest to the battery box that I also used for the second cylinder. Looking at the parts diagram looks like the rearward ports would be using check valves. The second issue is that the draft control used a second linkage to the cylinder that I cannot use so I've disabled that so the control will move the linkage on the valve body.
I've read of other deadheading due to the double/single acting switches being in half position. While I did have them apart and put in new gaskets I did not see how the switch would engage the valve to change it. Prior owner put a gasket with no whole cut out so it would have been inoperable. I was not terribly concerned with this at the time as I did not plan on using the remotes.
I would not have purchased this 3 point if I had known all of the issues. Steiner listed it as fitting rowcrops AND utilities. After I contacted them they changed the description but seem to be dodging my inquire. The fenders do not fit without modification and I had to torch out a chunk for the PTO rod to clear the hitch.
Fairly quickly I noticed the hydraulic return line was getting hot, hot enough I could barely hold my hand on it and the whole trans case was getting hot. I have a 7' flail that the tractor could not power through in low gear through lawn grass. The tractor should have twice the power required as my smaller 30hp/1.3L diesel pulled this same flail twice as easy as the 460. Tractor bogged down and noticed after maybe 15-20 minutes of messing with it that the coolant was near overheating as well.
I suspect that the hydraulic pump is running constantly causing the fluid to get hot. The hydraulics did not seem to lose any power during this time though. [b:c8ba323d55]Would the pump running 100% cause the lack of power though? What about loading the engine enough to get near overheating? [/b:c8ba323d55]
I did have all of the hydraulic valve bodies off and partially disassembled for new o-rings and gaskets. The orifice screen was not dirty but did clean it anyway. Prior to that I flushed the hytran and put in a new filter, which was almost completely plugged.
A few things I did could potentially be causing an issue. The original single cylinder used the 2 ports rear ward of the battery box but the hardlines also had two plugs closest to the battery box that I also used for the second cylinder. Looking at the parts diagram looks like the rearward ports would be using check valves. The second issue is that the draft control used a second linkage to the cylinder that I cannot use so I've disabled that so the control will move the linkage on the valve body.
I've read of other deadheading due to the double/single acting switches being in half position. While I did have them apart and put in new gaskets I did not see how the switch would engage the valve to change it. Prior owner put a gasket with no whole cut out so it would have been inoperable. I was not terribly concerned with this at the time as I did not plan on using the remotes.
I would not have purchased this 3 point if I had known all of the issues. Steiner listed it as fitting rowcrops AND utilities. After I contacted them they changed the description but seem to be dodging my inquire. The fenders do not fit without modification and I had to torch out a chunk for the PTO rod to clear the hitch.
