IH 484 Loader Tractor

[ford4wd08]

Just purchased a IH 484 with a Farmhand loader over the weekend.

It is a later model with the H shift patter and ROPs bar, no canopy.

Appears to have a round 2500 hrs on it. Tach is working and appears original, fuel and temp gauge work as well.

New to IH, mostly a green guy, but got a good deal and wanted a loader tractor and this is the perfect size. Mostly for moving round bales, but will probably get a bucket for it at some point.

Anyhow, couple of questions. Engine runs well, was able to start it in 30 degree weather yesterday with no ether. I had to jump the battery, but it fired off and ran well afterwards. I've just noticed this tractor vibrates/shakes when you get up above 1200 rpm or so. I don't believe the tractor is missing on any cylinders. Seems to run well and have enough power. Since it is a 3 cylinder it doesn't have any balancing shafts, any tips on anything to look at? I was going to check bolts and tighten things, maybe double check the fan and water pump. Engine has absolutely no blow by at dipstick or oil fill. I do need to fix the kill cable as it is frozen. I know there is a start position with the cable as well. I'll try to get it all sorted out soon. I did purchase an owners manual online. Muffler is getting replaced too. It's just flopping in the wind now.

Hydraulics seem good and strong, loader is plumbed into rear remote. Might consider plumbing it another way at some point, but it is working for now just fine.

Transmission shifts well, tractor seems to be geared pretty high and has fast reverses, which is handy with the loader. The low gear being in line with reverse makes for a nice shift pattern.

The left brake is current not working. I believe it needs to be bleed and have read that is a common thing with this tractor. I'll try to get it bled soon. Right seems to work well, and the parking brake and flashing indicator lights work still too.

Clutch seems to work well, I'm coming from a hydraulic clutch on my Deere to this one being all mechanical, my only complaint is that there isn't much throw to disengage the clutch, I believe this tractor has self adjusting linkange, but I'll look into it and make sure it's setup right.

I'm sure they'll be more. Any tips you all have for this tractor will be greatly appreciated.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Load the rear tires and add as much weight as you can get to each rear wheel. We have about a total of 1200 on each rear wheel on our 574 will now lift well without being light in the rear end we have 18.4-28's with loaded tires and 2 weights on the outside and the inside is full out to the side of the tire some are old Case weights that my brother and dad drilled to fit the wheel plate along with an old F&H weight on the outside behind the IH weight it was drilled with holes to fit also. IF you want to change the hook up for the loader is with a power beyond plate at the end of the valve stack this allows you to use the remotes and the loader at the same time without unplugging anything. I would want a piece of tube to go frm the fron axle mount all the way back to the rear axle and bolt to both places with the loader frame fastened to that for support. The oil pan is part of the complete engine strength component package for those tractors and the ears will crack and break using them for loaders if not careful with them.The reason for the full length support to the loader. We have the 2050 series A loader and it has that support and we still had an ear at the front of the oil pan come off. IT doesn't leak but does weaken the castings that way. It is of course an old dairy farm loader form the years we had the cows so lots of hours and use on it. Is basically the same tractor as yours just a size bigger, and older. Change the hydraulic filter regularly under the left foot plate in the round cover on the MCV your book should show it when you get it. Watch you don'tr pull the dipstick out with your foot or pants leg getting on or off. Itis right by the rear inside of the left foot plate in the corner. Easy to do . We have pulled it up so it will leak from that.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Two and three cylinder tractors always sound like they're missing so you may want to go cylinder by cylinder loosening the injector lines and observing how the tractor runs just to make sure it's not missing on a cylinder. Any smoke?

At this stage of my life I would probably go with a block of concrete hung off the 3pt for counterweight. I'd build it to be quick hitch compatible so you can just back up to it and snag it when you need it, instead of fighting with getting the individual arms lined up. It's one thing to hook up something that you can move to account for slight misalignment, but if you can't, it's tough.

 

[ford4wd08]

(quoted from post at 09:40:16 12/26/23) Two and three cylinder tractors always sound like they're missing so you may want to go cylinder by cylinder loosening the injector lines and observing how the tractor runs just to make sure it's not missing on a cylinder. Any smoke?

At this stage of my life I would probably go with a block of concrete hung off the 3pt for counterweight. I'd build it to be quick hitch compatible so you can just back up to it and snag it when you need it, instead of fighting with getting the individual arms lined up. It's one thing to hook up something that you can move to account for slight misalignment, but if you can't, it's tough.

No smoke at all. Ran it more since I've made this post. I think it's just nature of the beast. Starts well and doesn't smoke. I'm coming from my Deere for comparison that just runs different. Two different machines both good in their own ways.

I'm only handling 4' tall x 5' wide round bales at this point. They probably top out at 750-800 lbs. I don't know if the tires are loaded, but that is probably as far as I'll need to go at this point. If I get a material bucket and start moving rock, I'll consider more counter weights.

This post was edited by ford4wd08 on 12/26/2023 at 06:26 am.

 

[JimB2]

Hi welcome to this site, very nice 484.
My brother has five of these IH Doncaster, UK built tractors on his farm, 454,474,684,495 and 3230.
I always help with all major mechanical problems on the farm and now that I am retired I do a lot of tractor driving for him.
So his 454 is one generation older than your 484 and his 495 is two generations newer but I believe since your 484 has the H shift pattern it is very close to his 495, all have the same German D-179 Diesel engine
but may have different Bosch injection pumps. My brother bought his CIH 495 in 1991 just as the 95 Series tractors were released, he ordered it with 16.9 x 28 rears and 6.50 x 16 fronts with a CIH Quick Attach 2250
loader with the IH Quick Attach bucket system. He used it on his dairy farm for feeding cows round bales and silage ever day until about 2000 when he bought a larger CIH 3230 and we transferred the 2250 loader from
the 495 to the 3230. We live in eastern Ontario, Canada, so spring and fall lots of mud, ruts and water, in winter ice and snow, so my brother has both rear wheels filled with a Calcium solution, has a 3pt rear
blade with 500 lbs of weight on the blade and spike chains on the rears. The 495 was a good starter in cold weather as it had the Thermostart option instead of the ether and he uses a 1500 Watt recirculating tank
heater if the temperature is below -5*F, plugged in for 20 minutes and tractor starts like summer, much easier on battery, starter and engine.
Good advice from previous posts.
Additional advice from me, keep all the bolts on the front axle tight, remove the front hubs at least once a year, check the inner grease seal, condition of bearings and repack with fresh grease.
Be careful not to get baler twine wrapped around front or rear axles as it will destroy the grease seals and let water into the bearings. We had to replace the outer left rear axle bearing on the 495 for this
reason.
See link for the free download of IH 74 Series manuals for the European models, if your tractor serial number plate says Made in the USA, it is a unit that was shipped frpm Doncaster, UK in a crate and final
assembly was completed at the IH plant in Louisville, KY. The major differences is the electrical system will be Delco, the PS and hydraulic Remote controls will be similar the the USA build IH 404/504 tractors.
Re Clutch, lift the clutch pedal up by hand and there should be at least 0.5 inch of free travel before hitting the upper limit adjustment.
Re Vibration, does it vibrate if you hold the clutch pedal down?
Re Cold Start, there are two possible Bosch injection pumps on your 484, most likely it is a Bosh-VA-CR pump, see the second photo, with the controls on the side of the injection pump, this is a Bosch-VA-CR pump.
See the STOP/START/RUN cable (Dark Green) that controls the fuel control lever on the side of the pump, the Red line is the STOP position the plunger is completely depressed, the Blue line is the COLD START
position, lever just touch the plunger when the plunger is fully extended, Light Green line is the RUN position with the lever touching the adjustment screw.
For COLD START with Bosch-VA-CR, set STOP/START/RUN on START position, move hand throttle to about half way position and crank engine, engine will Start and run rough for 30 seconds or so then quickly move the
STOP/START/RUN from START to RUN, if engine stalls then return to START position and repeat, you will learn how long to leave engine running in the START position. The START position is usually only require for the
first start of the day in cold weather.
Second photo is photo of my brother's CIH 495 showing the Thermostart element, cicrled in Red and the BOSH-VE pump and recirculating tank heater. On the Bosch-VE pump the COLD START is built into the pump, fuel
control lever is either OUT STOP or IN RUN.
PS, parts are readily available from CIH or after market like this site.

Good luck with your 484.

IH 74 Series Manual Download

 

[ford4wd08]

(quoted from post at 14:35:10 12/26/23) Hi welcome to this site, very nice 484.
My brother has five of these IH Doncaster, UK built tractors on his farm, 454,474,684,495 and 3230.
I always help with all major mechanical problems on the farm and now that I am retired I do a lot of tractor driving for him.
So his 454 is one generation older than your 484 and his 495 is two generations newer but I believe since your 484 has the H shift pattern it is very close to his 495, all have the same German D-179 Diesel engine
but may have different Bosch injection pumps. My brother bought his CIH 495 in 1991 just as the 95 Series tractors were released, he ordered it with 16.9 x 28 rears and 6.50 x 16 fronts with a CIH Quick Attach 2250
loader with the IH Quick Attach bucket system. He used it on his dairy farm for feeding cows round bales and silage ever day until about 2000 when he bought a larger CIH 3230 and we transferred the 2250 loader from
the 495 to the 3230. We live in eastern Ontario, Canada, so spring and fall lots of mud, ruts and water, in winter ice and snow, so my brother has both rear wheels filled with a Calcium solution, has a 3pt rear
blade with 500 lbs of weight on the blade and spike chains on the rears. The 495 was a good starter in cold weather as it had the Thermostart option instead of the ether and he uses a 1500 Watt recirculating tank
heater if the temperature is below -5*F, plugged in for 20 minutes and tractor starts like summer, much easier on battery, starter and engine.
Good advice from previous posts.
Additional advice from me, keep all the bolts on the front axle tight, remove the front hubs at least once a year, check the inner grease seal, condition of bearings and repack with fresh grease.
Be careful not to get baler twine wrapped around front or rear axles as it will destroy the grease seals and let water into the bearings. We had to replace the outer left rear axle bearing on the 495 for this
reason.
See link for the free download of IH 74 Series manuals for the European models, if your tractor serial number plate says Made in the USA, it is a unit that was shipped frpm Doncaster, UK in a crate and final
assembly was completed at the IH plant in Louisville, KY. The major differences is the electrical system will be Delco, the PS and hydraulic Remote controls will be similar the the USA build IH 404/504 tractors.
Re Clutch, lift the clutch pedal up by hand and there should be at least 0.5 inch of free travel before hitting the upper limit adjustment.
Re Vibration, does it vibrate if you hold the clutch pedal down?
Re Cold Start, there are two possible Bosch injection pumps on your 484, most likely it is a Bosh-VA-CR pump, see the second photo, with the controls on the side of the injection pump, this is a Bosch-VA-CR pump.
See the STOP/START/RUN cable (Dark Green) that controls the fuel control lever on the side of the pump, the Red line is the STOP position the plunger is completely depressed, the Blue line is the COLD START
position, lever just touch the plunger when the plunger is fully extended, Light Green line is the RUN position with the lever touching the adjustment screw.
For COLD START with Bosch-VA-CR, set STOP/START/RUN on START position, move hand throttle to about half way position and crank engine, engine will Start and run rough for 30 seconds or so then quickly move the
STOP/START/RUN from START to RUN, if engine stalls then return to START position and repeat, you will learn how long to leave engine running in the START position. The START position is usually only require for the
first start of the day in cold weather.
Second photo is photo of my brother's CIH 495 showing the Thermostart element, cicrled in Red and the BOSH-VE pump and recirculating tank heater. On the Bosch-VE pump the COLD START is built into the pump, fuel
control lever is either OUT STOP or IN RUN.
PS, parts are readily available from CIH or after market like this site.

Good luck with your 484.

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto169211.jpg>

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto169212.jpg>
IH 74 Series Manual Download

Thanks for all the info. I live in East TN, so winters are fairly mild. I do have the recirculating pump heater on mine like you have in one of your pictures.

I have the injection pump you mentioned with the start/run/stop positions from the kill cable. Mine is frozen so it is rigged just to kill the engine now. I'll be replacing it soon.

I can't read the SN plate because it is covered the the loader mounts. I will be checking all the bolts and greasing items like you mention. I've only ran the tractor for about an hour or so it seems to be alright. Clutch does have up free play, I'm just new to an all mechanical clutch vs the hydraulic clutch feel that is on my JD.

Vibration is in engine, but I think it is ok. Stays when you depress the clutch as well. I'll do some checks and make sure all is in good health. It has no blow by and seems to be true to the 2500 hours on the tach. Has some leaks here and there, but nothing crazy for a tractor or this age.

Can you tell me how y'all had the loader you mentioned plumbed to the tractor, was it through the remotes?

I'm willing to read and learn anything anyone has to offer, so please feel free to post up more info if you can think of any.

 

[JimB2]

Hi see photo below of my brother's CIH 495 with seat, deck plate, fuel tank, fenders and roll bar removed when we were
replacing left outer rear axle bearing.
In Canada we receive the IH/CIH tractors directly from IH Doncaster, UK plant with only the required Canadian modifications,
unlike the crate units that go to the IH plant in Louisville, KY that use common parts from the IH 404/504 for final assembly.
With reference to the photo below, to attach a loader on a European/Canadian IH Doncaster tractor, you would remove the steel
hydraulic line highlighted in Yellow, cap the line at the rear connector of the T-fitting and connect the High Pressure
input line from the loader control vale to the 90* elbow with the Blue circle. Note the elbow can be loosened and rotated to a
more convenient angle to match the hydraulic line to the loader.
The low pressure return line from the loader control valve is connected by a reducer fitting into the differential drain plug
under the right rear axle.

The $64K question is was your 484 final assembly in Louisville, KY as the above connection will not work. Since the Serial
Number plate is covered by the loader frame, The first thing to look at is the handle on the hydraulic remote control, if it
is a rod with a knob on the end like the yellow rod in the photo, that is Doncaster, if it is cast iron then that is
Louisville.
The other difference, Doncaster used a 3 bolt remote hydraulic valve and Louisville used a 4 bolt valve. The Louisville remote
valve requires a Power Beyond Housing IH Part # 114566C91 to connect the high pressure line to the loader control valve.

 

[ford4wd08]

The single remote control rod I have is one with a round grip on the top and a rod like the picture you have. It is in the picture below in the circle.

 

[JimB2]

A good indication that your 484 came directly from IH Doncaster, UK, next look at the remote hydraulic valve to see if it is mounted to the hydraulic housing with 3 or 4 bolts, 3 bolts good.
The IH Louisville plant closed on 31 Oct 1984, so if your 484 was a late model, it would have came directly from Doncaster, UK. The other possibility it was a Canadian 484 and it was bought used in Canada
and imported into USA. I don't know who was the person responsible for putting the serial number plate on the front bolster on those tractors but not a good place for it as so many of those models were used
as loader tractors. Can you tell if the Starter is a Lucas or Delco? The Alternator is probably a Delco by now as a Lucas alternator would not last 2500 Hrs without a rebuild.

See photo below for connection to right rear axle drain plug. There are IH part numbers that are probably been superseded by now but any good hydraulic shop will have the parts.
Google the part numbers and you will find an alternate source and description. Example 218-5078, Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/145118727292

I assume you know how to use a Shop-Vac on the hydraulic fill hole so you can remove the drain plug without loosing much hydraulic oil.

Link to IH Louisville Products

 

[ford4wd08]

(quoted from post at 12:10:33 12/27/23) A good indication that your 484 came directly from IH Doncaster, UK, next look at the remote hydraulic valve to see if it is mounted to the hydraulic housing with 3 or 4 bolts, 3 bolts good.
The IH Louisville plant closed on 31 Oct 1984, so if your 484 was a late model, it would have came directly from Doncaster, UK. The other possibility it was a Canadian 484 and it was bought used in Canada
and imported into USA. I don't know who was the person responsible for putting the serial number plate on the front bolster on those tractors but not a good place for it as so many of those models were used
as loader tractors. Can you tell if the Starter is a Lucas or Delco? The Alternator is probably a Delco by now as a Lucas alternator would not last 2500 Hrs without a rebuild.

See photo below for connection to right rear axle drain plug. There are IH part numbers that are probably been superseded by now but any good hydraulic shop will have the parts.
Google the part numbers and you will find an alternate source and description. Example 218-5078, Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/145118727292

I assume you know how to use a Shop-Vac on the hydraulic fill hole so you can remove the drain plug without loosing much hydraulic oil.


<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto169262.jpg>
Link to IH Louisville Products

Thanks for the info, where are you pulling the parts diagrams and part numbers from in your screen shots?

As for the shop vac, I had heard that and need to practice it when I do maintenance on my machines soon.

 

[JimB2]

Yes, item #27 from the parts list on the right of the photo in the blue print but it may not be very clear as resolution of the photo maybe reduced.
Use the [Send Email] option of this website and I will email you directly.

 

[ford4wd08]

Yes, item #27 from the parts list on the right of the photo in the blue print but it may not be very clear as resolution of the photo maybe reduced.
Use the [Send Email] option of this website and I will email you directly.

Got your email Jim. Thanks.

Still digging in on the tractor. Working on the front end now, new tie rods.

I did take a minute to crack each injector line today while it was running, and it did begin to miss at each cylinder. So I think the engine is running fine. Don't really see any smoke, I just think this 3 cylinder has some vibration to it. Nothing that seems to effect anything.

 

[ford4wd08]

@JimB2

Got my tie rods replaced, was definitely needed. I need to adjust one slightly, but all the rain we have gotten in East TN lately has delayed me on some things.

Starting to look at doing some maintenance on my 484. I believe this is probably the last year of production for the 484, as my ROPS bar has JI case serial placard on it.

Have any recommendation for filters? I don't have a CIH dealer close per say, so I'll be ordering online. I'll likely go aftermarket, didn't know if there were any brands you could recommend?

I know there were filter type changes from what I can see on the parts diagram from Messicks. I believe there are 2 fuel filters, an engine oil filter, primary and secondary air filter, and a hydraulic filter. Am I missing anything?

I snapped some pictures of the fuel and engine oil filters. Also, I am missing the stop plunger or whatever it is called on the IJ, I put a new cable on so I can at least pull it correctly now. Have any leads on injection pump parts?

 

[JimB2]

Hi, my brother uses oil filter Fram PH2842 for his IH/CIH Tractors, same as the older Mercedes cars as the local auto parts store sold them.
He still buys the fuel filters from his local Kubota dealer that used to be a long time IH dealer.
I believe your 484 will have the spin on fuel filters with the water drain on the bottom, CIH part # 3218794R91.
They do sell them on this web site but if you have a truck or Diesel engine service locally they probably will have them as I believe they are a common Bosch fuel filter.

Re, air filter, just examine the air filters first, unless the 484 has been used in real dirty conditions, just removing the air filters and blowing out with compressed air is good. They are a common air filters made by Donaldson, I believe.

Maybe someone else from your area in the USA will reply with their knowledge.

 

[ford4wd08]

Hi, my brother uses oil filter Fram PH2842 for his IH/CIH Tractors, same as the older Mercedes cars as the local auto parts store sold them.
He still buys the fuel filters from his local Kubota dealer that used to be a long time IH dealer.
I believe your 484 will have the spin on fuel filters with the water drain on the bottom, CIH part # 3218794R91.
They do sell them on this web site but if you have a truck or Diesel engine service locally they probably will have them as I believe they are a common Bosch fuel filter.

Re, air filter, just examine the air filters first, unless the 484 has been used in real dirty conditions, just removing the air filters and blowing out with compressed air is good. They are a common air filters made by Donaldson, I believe.

Maybe someone else from your area in the USA will reply with their knowledge.

Hi Jim, thanks for the info. Is the fuel filter the same filter for both primary and secondary filters?

I'm finding conflicting info in the owners manual and the parts catalog I'm looking at.

 

[JimB2]

I may be wrong but I believe originally only the primary fuel filter had the drain on the bottom and secondary had no drain and were two different part numbers but later CIH only stocked the one with the drain for both primary and secondary filters.
Originally there were three different styles of fuel filters used on the those German Diesel engines, the short CAV type with glass bowl on bottom with drain, then glass was replaced by metal bowl with drain, then the spin on type like yours.
In the photo of my brother's CIH 495 I posted earlier you can see the black spin on fuel filter and I remember each had a drain on the bottom because three winters ago when we were using the 495 in his wood lot and it was about -10*F and the tractor quit part way back into the wood lot and we opened the drain at primary filter and there was fuel flow, opened drain on secondary and a little fuel ran out then stopped, so had to do a 20 mile round trip back to the farm for new fuel filters. We thought of building a fire and heating the filters and dumping the contents then thought what happens if we don't get all the water and it goes into the pump, not good. We also add some gas line antifreeze to the fuel tank.

 

[caterpillar guy]

We use Baldwin filters for most things with no problems in about 20 years now. Napa filters before that or dealer filters. The Baldwin filters are close to us and no more than dealer filters I find most of the filters on the aftermarket are about the same price just if you catch a spring sale they will be cheaper. I usually order a list of filters from my Baldwin guy about now and get a 10or 20 percent discount for them. For the fuel we keep the water drained out of the supply tank so we don't really have a water problem. We have drain plugs in all of our supply tanks and go around each year and let the water if any seep through the threads till the water if any is drained till I get clear fuel then tighten back up. Has worked for decades for us with some of the tanks being at least 40 and more years old still in use by us.

 

[ford4wd08]

Looks like you can get a replacement without a water drain at the bottom for the fuel filters, I would prefer to keep that feature though.

 

[ford4wd08]

Actually this Baldwin filter cross references, I think I'll try it out. It is a 20 micron filter.

BF1261 - Baldwin - Spin-on Fuel Filters | Baldwin

Modern fuel injection systems require fuel be free of both particulate and water contamination. Baldwin spin-on fuel filters keep fuel clean and engines running at maximum efficiency.

ph.baldwinfilters.com

 

[MARK ROBKE]

I have a 485 with a loader, set up same as your 484. I have had it about 20yrs, and it has been a good tractor, put about 2800hrs on it, has @3900hrs now. I roll hay with it and feed with it, so I have had to replace the clutch. Also have had to replace the brake piston seals in the axles. I don't have any vibration in my engine though. I think it is louder than a 4 cylinder, but it runs smooth. If your vibration is something you can feel, I would look deeper into it. I have had 2 engines in my life that broke a crankshaft, but still ran. Also worked on a 584(4cyl that broke its balancer-but your engine does not have that). Also have had clutch problems that caused vibration. Not saying you have a problem, but I would dive deeper. Good luck, Mark.