IH 484 Loader Tractor

[ford4wd08]

I have a 485 with a loader, set up same as your 484. I have had it about 20yrs, and it has been a good tractor, put about 2800hrs on it, has @3900hrs now. I roll hay with it and feed with it, so I have had to replace the clutch. Also have had to replace the brake piston seals in the axles. I don't have any vibration in my engine though. I think it is louder than a 4 cylinder, but it runs smooth. If your vibration is something you can feel, I would look deeper into it. I have had 2 engines in my life that broke a crankshaft, but still ran. Also worked on a 584(4cyl that broke its balancer-but your engine does not have that). Also have had clutch problems that caused vibration. Not saying you have a problem, but I would dive deeper. Good luck, Mark.

I'll look into it more. I might even post a video on here when it does it.

I agree on no balancing shafts or harmonic balancer, just a pulley on the crank.

Not sure what all to check. It starts and runs well. I guess I could inspect flywheel and clutch, but pushing in and releasing clutch makes no difference. So I don't think it is related to transmission. Actually considered taking the fan and belt off and running it to see if that makes a difference.

 

[ford4wd08]

We use Baldwin filters for most things with no problems in about 20 years now. Napa filters before that or dealer filters. The Baldwin filters are close to us and no more than dealer filters I find most of the filters on the aftermarket are about the same price just if you catch a spring sale they will be cheaper. I usually order a list of filters from my Baldwin guy about now and get a 10or 20 percent discount for them. For the fuel we keep the water drained out of the supply tank so we don't really have a water problem. We have drain plugs in all of our supply tanks and go around each year and let the water if any seep through the threads till the water if any is drained till I get clear fuel then tighten back up. Has worked for decades for us with some of the tanks being at least 40 and more years old still in use by us.

Decided to go with Baldwin filters, easy to cross reference on their website and Grainger had good pricing delivered out to my place. Closest Case IH dealer is 60 miles and a time zone away, so I'll just go online for now where I can.

 

[ford4wd08]

So a little update for today. Ordered all new Baldwin filters yesterday at 2 pm from Grainger and they were on my door step today. Can't beat that

I was able to bleed the brakes as well since my left brake was not working at all. Got them both bleed and they feel very strong now.

Anyhow we have some single digit weather on the way, so I decided to flush and refill my cooling system. The old saying goes if it ain't broke don't fix it comes to mind. The water pump sprung a leak during this process. The cooling system was definitely in need of maintenance, but didn't expect a water pump.

Oh well have the tractor apart and it went pretty well. I'll order parts tonight.

I did manage to take a couple of videos for any vibration. You can hear the hood shaking and maybe see the tires in the video. I'm going to take clutch inspection plate off and a have a look. Maybe the water pump was going bad and caused some of it? I'm unsure. The crank pulley does look like it has a balance weight on it. I assume this pulley is keyed to the shaft?

Here are the YouTube links:

 

[MARK ROBKE]

So a little update for today. Ordered all new Baldwin filters yesterday at 2 pm from Grainger and they were on my door step today. Can't beat that

I was able to bleed the brakes as well since my left brake was not working at all. Got them both bleed and they feel very strong now.

Anyhow we have some single digit weather on the way, so I decided to flush and refill my cooling system. The old saying goes if it ain't broke don't fix it comes to mind. The water pump sprung a leak during this process. The cooling system was definitely in need of maintenance, but didn't expect a water pump.

Oh well have the tractor apart and it went pretty well. I'll order parts tonight.

I did manage to take a couple of videos for any vibration. You can hear the hood shaking and maybe see the tires in the video. I'm going to take clutch inspection plate off and a have a look. Maybe the water pump was going bad and caused some of it? I'm unsure. The crank pulley does look like it has a balance weight on it. I assume this pulley is keyed to the shaft?

Here are the YouTube links:

I am not sure I hear or see a vibration. The second video made think loose RF wheel bearing. It is (for me anyway) hard to tell much in a video. Mark.

 

[ford4wd08]

I am not sure I hear or see a vibration. The second video made think loose RF wheel bearing. It is (for me anyway) hard to tell much in a video. Mark.

Yeah video doesn't do a good job of showing what I'm talking about.

I looked at the parts diagram. Looks like crank pulley has a dowel, I might try and remove it to make sure it's still there since I already have a lot of it disassembled.

 

[ford4wd08]

I was able to get the water pump installed without issue other than waiting on it to get delivered. The little bit we had of winter a couple of weeks back really slowed me down, but I got it assembled and no leaks. Appears to be working well.

I've got some fluid changes to finish up this weekend, and I think it will be ready for hay season.

I need to explore getting the remote freed up by plumbing the loader to the tractor, that is on my list to look into as it warms up. Also have some hydraulic hoses on the loader that will need to be replaced before to long as well.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

I was able to get the water pump installed without issue other than waiting on it to get delivered. The little bit we had of winter a couple of weeks back really slowed me down, but I got it assembled and no leaks. Appears to be working well.

I've got some fluid changes to finish up this weekend, and I think it will be ready for hay season.

I need to explore getting the remote freed up by plumbing the loader to the tractor, that is on my list to look into as it warms up. Also have some hydraulic hoses on the loader that will need to be replaced before to long as well.

I just re-watched your video. I noticed your tach needle bouncing around- mine started doing that after I replaced the cable housing and cable. Bad assembly-just haven't looked into it even though it bothers me! But my engine does run smooth. I hope you checked your r/f wheel bearing-it wobbles in the video.
On my tractor, which is a mirror of yours, it came with an electric solenoid that doubles the remotes. It came with a momentary switch, but after talking to the maker, I put a rocker switch and run it continuously when needed. I usually plug the remotes with the hydraulic function that I use most with the normal-no electric side of the remote couplers and use the less used hydraulic function with the electric side of the coupler. But I remove my loader and reattach it all the time. My baler uses both remote couplers so I can't have it on then anyway. Mark.

 

[ford4wd08]

I just re-watched your video. I noticed your tach needle bouncing around- mine started doing that after I replaced the cable housing and cable. Bad assembly-just haven't looked into it even though it bothers me! But my engine does run smooth. I hope you checked your r/f wheel bearing-it wobbles in the video.
On my tractor, which is a mirror of yours, it came with an electric solenoid that doubles the remotes. It came with a momentary switch, but after talking to the maker, I put a rocker switch and run it continuously when needed. I usually plug the remotes with the hydraulic function that I use most with the normal-no electric side of the remote couplers and use the less used hydraulic function with the electric side of the coupler. But I remove my loader and reattach it all the time. My baler uses both remote couplers so I can't have it on then anyway. Mark.

Thanks for the reminder on wheel bearings. I will check them and repack them prior to hay season. May just replace them, for sure on the seals if I pull them out.

Tach does jump but doesn't bother me too bad. Normally settles down.

I do have a hydraulic splitter on my Deere with the solenoids from summit. It works very well.

I don't love how the hoses route under my tractor currently for the loader, but I've got time to think on it. Currently I don't have any implements I'll use on this tractor other than a ground driven IH 35 bar rake which doesn't need any remote.

 

[JimB2]

I just re-watched your video. I noticed your tach needle bouncing around- mine started doing that after I replaced the cable housing and cable. Bad assembly-just haven't looked into it even though it bothers me! But my engine does run smooth. I hope you checked your r/f wheel bearing-it wobbles in the video.
On my tractor, which is a mirror of yours, it came with an electric solenoid that doubles the remotes. It came with a momentary switch, but after talking to the maker, I put a rocker switch and run it continuously when needed. I usually plug the remotes with the hydraulic function that I use most with the normal-no electric side of the remote couplers and use the less used hydraulic function with the electric side of the coupler. But I remove my loader and reattach it all the time. My baler uses both remote couplers so I can't have it on then anyway. Mark.

Hi Mark, Re Electric Solenoid that doubles the remote outlets, could you please tell me the Make and Model of the Electric Solenoid?
My brother bought a JD round baler during the pandemic that requires two remotes and he was looking for the same type of electric solenoid to make one to two hydraulic outlets. He had to end up using his loader tractor using the loader outlets on the baler. Now I can't draw round bales from the field while he is baling. At the time there were ones available but the cost was extremely high.
Thanks
JimB

 

[ford4wd08]

Hi Mark, Re Electric Solenoid that doubles the remote outlets, could you please tell me the Make and Model of the Electric Solenoid?
My brother bought a JD round baler during the pandemic that requires two remotes and he was looking for the same type of electric solenoid to make one to two hydraulic outlets. He had to end up using his loader tractor using the loader outlets on the baler. Now I can't draw round bales from the field while he is baling. At the time there were ones available but the cost was extremely high.
Thanks
JimB

Hi Jim,

I'm currently doing that exact thing on my JD tractor and baler.

I went with the kit from Summit hydraulics. It's a good kit and pretty well thought out. Wasn't the cheapest, but works well. I also like that when I switch between circuits, it will not let a remote leak, which can cause baler issues with JD balers and hydraulic pressure being applied to the gate.

Hydraulic Multiplier Kit, SCV Splitter/Diverter Valve Including Couplers and Switch Box Control

Free Shipping Hydraulic Multiplier Kit, SCV Splitter/Diverter Valve Including Couplers and Switch Box Control

summit-hydraulics.com

Since my JD is a cab tractor it made it much easier to route the wires and the system.

 

[JimB2]

Hi Jim,

I'm currently doing that exact thing on my JD tractor and baler.

I went with the kit from Summit hydraulics. It's a good kit and pretty well thought out. Wasn't the cheapest, but works well. I also like that when I switch between circuits, it will not let a remote leak, which can cause baler issues with JD balers and hydraulic pressure being applied to the gate.

Hydraulic Multiplier Kit, SCV Splitter/Diverter Valve Including Couplers and Switch Box Control

Free Shipping Hydraulic Multiplier Kit, SCV Splitter/Diverter Valve Including Couplers and Switch Box Control

summit-hydraulics.com

Since my JD is a cab tractor it made it much easier to route the wires and the system.

Thanks
Jim

 

[ford4wd08]

Thanks
Jim

No problem. I appreciate all your old post. One quick Google search on how to bleed hydraulic system on my 484 after changing the filter brought me to one of your post.

Anyhow I did manage to snap a couple of pictures of my SCV setup. Not exactly sure what I'm looking at yet but will do some more research in a bit.

 

[ford4wd08]

So I cleaned the side of the valve body cover. It does have 4 bolts. I'm not exactly sure which one I have and if this is one you can plumb to loader into?

I've done some searching, but I'm still slightly confused. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

[ford4wd08]

Did some reading. Appears the plate I have is not the power beyond plate. Sounds like there are work around without having it though.

 

[JimB2]

I believe you have the IH USA remote valve not the IH UK valve that we see here in Canada with the 3 bolt end plate.
Please post a photo of the remote hydraulic lever with the hand grip, that will confirm which style your 484 has USA or UK.

 

[ford4wd08]

I believe you have the IH USA remote valve not the IH UK valve that we see here in Canada with the 3 bolt end plate.
Please post a photo of the remote hydraulic lever with the hand grip, that will confirm which style your 484 has USA or UK.

Hi Jim, it is the rod with a round grip at the top for the remote lever, not the cast style.

 

[JimB2]

Yes, that is the photo of the lever I was looking for. Your 484 is a late model crate unit that was assembled in Louisville, KY, USA that has different parts than the 84 Series tractors that we receive in Canada completely assembled at IH Doncaster, UK, plant.
Look at attached photo below, your 484 is a late model as it has handle Item #19 not #34.
I looked at CaseIH.com parts and I found the kit to put a Power Beyond end cover on your 484 was out of stock but the Cover itself was available just the three O-Rings were Out of Stock. The $118.80 price for the Power Beyond end cover is reasonable for todays parts prices. I assume it is in US$ as everytime I go to CaseIH.com parts it forgets I am in Canada. The O-Rings should be available at any good hydraulic shop or Google the part numbers and other vendors have them in stock.
Also see this post: https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=639078

Disclaimer, everytime I try helping someone with the adding a Power Beyond Cover to an IH Doncaster crate unit tractor assembled in Louisville there is always some difficulty as mentioned in the post above. IH Louisville appeared to change parts and there are no serial number ranges mentioned in the CaseIH.com online parts.

Hope this helps, but please verify which Power Beyond Cover your 484 requires the 123082C1 or 123082C2 version.

Jim

 

[ford4wd08]

Yes, that is the photo of the lever I was looking for. Your 484 is a late model crate unit that was assembled in Louisville, KY, USA that has different parts than the 84 Series tractors that we receive in Canada completely assembled at IH Doncaster, UK, plant.
Look at attached photo below, your 484 is a late model as it has handle Item #19 not #34.
I looked at CaseIH.com parts and I found the kit to put a Power Beyond end cover on your 484 was out of stock but the Cover itself was available just the three O-Rings were Out of Stock. The $118.80 price for the Power Beyond end cover is reasonable for todays parts prices. I assume it is in US$ as everytime I go to CaseIH.com parts it forgets I am in Canada. The O-Rings should be available at any good hydraulic shop or Google the part numbers and other vendors have them in stock.
Also see this post: https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=639078

Disclaimer, everytime I try helping someone with the adding a Power Beyond Cover to an IH Doncaster crate unit tractor assembled in Louisville there is always some difficulty as mentioned in the post above. IH Louisville appeared to change parts and there are no serial number ranges mentioned in the CaseIH.com online parts.

Hope this helps, but please verify which Power Beyond Cover your 484 requires the 123082C1 or 123082C2 version.

JimView attachment 4678

Hi Jim,

Thanks for assistance as usual. When I look on Messick's I see the power beyond plate being over $900...

It looks like you can use the 123082C1 or 123082C2 since it says it was superseded in the catalog at least according to Messick's.

From what I read in the post, the C2 has a return plumbed in, and the C1 you would have plumb another return, like lower on the axle as I have seen mentioned.

 

[JimB2]

You are correct about the C1 version, that probably explains the price difference. On the IH Doncaster built ones that we receive in Canada that don't require a different Power Beyond Cover, we always do the return to under the right axle where the drain plug is.

 

[ford4wd08]

You are correct about the C1 version, that probably explains the price difference. On the IH Doncaster built ones that we receive in Canada that don't require a different Power Beyond Cover, we always do the return to under the right axle where the drain plug is.

I cannot find the C1 version in parts like you did, is that a Canadian site, or? I would gladly pay $118 for that cover.