implement to leval tilled field?

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have a 10acre vacant land that I bought last year. The previouse owner just it for corn years back and was bailing the field for several years, but the ground still has the hills and values from the corn. A local farmer thought we was going to plant soy beans on it with out talking to me. He ran something over the surface to turn it over and now it is not level at all and very airy. He said he would role the soil flat but it has been 2 months. I do not want to take him to court to fix. Any idea on the best way to put back to a nice walkable hay field? All I have is a MF65 and 7ft box blade. I am not familiar at all with the different implements and usages. Would a disk harrow work? Or something else?
 
What do yuu plan to do with it afterward?

A disk would break it up even more and to an extent would level it up. Eventually youd have a very nice seed bed but would probably still have to drag it to get a smooth final grade.

Your box blade would probably do a better job of just leveling it expecially if it has ripper teeth. Wouldnt take long at all if you put that MF in medium gear.
 
I plan on letting the neighbors hay field re-seed it for now. The soy bean guy called it weeds, but the neighbor is balling and selling it. After we build a house it will probable all be finished mowed.

So you thing the box blade would do it? I do have teeth. Should I just put the teeth all the way down and lift the blade off the ground enough not to stay full of soil. And do this several times?

With gas prices being more than a new implement or maybe rental I was hoping to use something a little bigger than 7ft.

Thanks.
 
if field still has grass clods i'm afraid you'd wind up with a balled up mess using a box blade...mite be better to just go ahead and disk it clean and drag a piece of railroad iron or similar behind disk on final pass.
 
Jeff,

Leave that box blade in the shed. Get a disc harrow and chain a length of telephone pole or something similar a little wider than the disc, behind it. As you disc and break up the clods, the pole will drag the surface level. You will probably have to run over the ground repeatedly, but when you get it well worked up, it should look like a seedbed. All those ruts and low spots will get filled up and leveled out.
 
A few passes with a disk will level it out, like some one else said have a post or pipe drag behind it.

Kinda strange for some one around here to turn ground to go from grass to beans. Was the bean guy the other bidder on the place?

Dave
 
Question. How is your neighbors field going to reseed your field? If the "soybean guy" said the neighbors hay field will reseed your field, he is lieing to you.

Your ground has been plowed, the only way you will get anything other then weeds is to replant it yourself with grass seed.
 
send the guy who messed it up a registered letter and advise him he has 2 or 3 weeks to get the field leveled out or you will carry him to small claims court. he must have a lot of nerve or an idiot one to go on another mans place and mess it p and not come back to do whats right. i'd wait until this fall, middle of aug to send him the letter. you need to work it up and plant your seed in sept, if you live in the southern states. i don't know about other parts of the country. if i were going to plant this in grass for hay i'd want the land disked, run over with a do-all and use a drill to plant the seed. a do-all has ripper teeth, a rotating bar with knife blades on it to pulvirize the soil, a section hare to level and a board on the back to finiah leveling it up. if your going to plant it in hay every thing you can do to it now will pay off in the long run if you can mow, rake, bale and haul faster. if you know where your going to build the house now is the time to put in your water line from the road and stub it off. even putting in a septic tank and field lines would be nice. thenwork the field up and sow it this fall. just my ideas
 
When we built, I had a huge pile of clay and a steep gully on our property line where I was going to place a fence. Instead of running fence down into the gully and back up the other side, I hauled approximately 45 yards of clay and used it for fill. I planted no seeds of any sort there. It is an area of about 1000 square feet or so. It is completely surrounded by pasture. The pasture area usually goes to seed late spring early summer each year as I cannot keep up with the grass at that time of year. About once a year I have run sheep and goats through the filled area to knock down the weeds and brush.This year it is finally showing some signs of growing grass. It has been seven years since I filled it. It will take ten acres a long time to regrow grass, and only if you keep it mowed or grazed correctly. The only way to get grass there is to plant it.

Good luck with this.

Christopher
 
What he is describing is a new style field cultivator that takes the place of several of the old style implements
 
Disc twice then take a chain harrow to it to smoothen it out would be my thought. If you've got some what sounds like some pretty deep valleys then its going to take some work to get them smoothed out. Also you might want to contact your local Farm Service office and see if they have a no-till drill for rent to re-seed in with in the fall. For a new establishment you'll need to seed at least 25 pounds to the acre. Your neighbors field is not going to re-seed yours, if anything you'll end up with a bunch of weed seed floating across the line and have a nice field of weeds.
 
i don't know if they still make them or not. brillion would be my guess if there is any still being made. it is and excellent machine for preparing seed beds. the front of the machine is equipted with3 or 4 runs of plows on spring loaded shaks with plow points on it like a cultivator has. the beater bars behind it have strips of metal on a shaft that would remind you of a squirrel cage fan. these chop the dirt up into a very fine state. next there is a section hare that drags the area down smooth and then on the very back is a set of bords that level
everything out. if i were you i would talk to a big farmer in your area and get him to work it up for you. by the time you buy the implements necessary to do the job and the fuel and your time it might get costly. of course there is a lot to be said about doing it yourself and getting to work your tactor some. its sounds like you don't have much experence at this, so its your call. depending on how long its been since your ground was broke, will depend on what type of equiptment you need to use to work it up into a good seed bed. the more time you put into it the smoother it will be. the smoother it is the faster you can keep it mowed, raked and baled. it even speeds up the hauling process. my two cents is to hire it done and do it this fall and then use a grain drill to drill the seed in. i prefer to go around and around in the field. when you get to sharp corners just turn them into wider ones. once you've wound your self down into the center of the field then go back and run your drill up and down the corners. you can do this by making as many rounds in each corner as necessary to fill them in. trying to fill the corners in as you go will only throw ruts up with the front tires of the tractor and make for roungh spots in the field for years. when using a drill the wheels of the drill run outside the unit, so the next pass you make with the drill you have to run the tire on the drill back over some of the planted area of the last pass you just made. if you try to run the tires in the same path as the tire track on the round previous you'll have an area that will not be seeded. in other words over lap the planted areas to keep from missing any spots.
 
Leroy,
Not all that new, been around at least since the 60s. The one we use is Forrest City duall, don't know if that is still a company or merged.
 
Never seen them till the 80's when the tractors became 150 HP or larger around here as what I have seen takes a lot of power
 
Leroy.
12 footer-4020 with duals and didn't set any speed records, but it was one pass instead of disc/harrow (twice) and cultipack. I'm sure a tractor with more go is better, 1175 Case travels faster and leaves excellent seedbed.
 
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