insuating pole building roof?

[CJ3b_jeep]

My neighbor came by yesterday evening to check the progress of my pole building. He asked if I was going to insulate the roof to keep condensation down. I had not planned on it, but he said it "rains" in his if you don't. Anyone ever done this?

 

[glennster]

its a good idea to insulate the roof if you can. my tool shed is a 60x120 morton bldg. it has a 30x60 insulated shop and the rest of the barn is not insulated. as soon as the sun comes up and you get condensation forming, it rains inside the barn for about a half hour. when we put up a smaller morton blg several years ago, i had them install the insulation during construction. they used sheets of 1/2 inch celotex i believe, the panels laid over the purlins and the tin was put on top. you can also have insulation sprayed on if the tin is up already.

 

[Anonymous-0]

We put one up the same year as next door neighbor. It rains in his and ours has insulation and only drips where the skylights are. By all means do it.

 

[CJ3b_jeep]

So something like celotex would be fine? I was hoping something along those lines would be fine for what I need, instead of having to buy rolls of something.

 

[Mike M]

All you need is vapor barrier. It comes in big rolls and you put it down before the roofing.

 

[Anonymous-0]

If you can afford it, I recommend insulating under your tin. I called the metal manufacturer, and they recommended using 1/2 inch foam insulation board, the kind with the external paper or shiny coating. It also quietens the roof when it rains. We have insulated roofs here that don't sweat, and uninsulated ones that do sweat. We laid the 4X8 foam board right on the purlins, put in a couple nails to keep it from moving, and screwed the tin down over it.

 

[Earl - IL]

The best I have seen so far is the P2000 Insulation System. [email protected] 1-800 457-3752.

 

[Bill in NorthCentral PA]

Check out Plyfoil, at Dynamic Fastener. We regularly use single bubble, white and foil. the foil side goes to the exterior. I'm not convinced on the science behind it, but in reality it works great. I do not give any credit to the insulation value aspect, but for an unheated building, its the affordable answer.

Best of luck,

Bill

 

[ArkanDan]

Put up a 52' x 64' shed 5 years ago. 14' walls, 4/12 pitch roof, and concrete floor with a plastic barrier between concrete and soil. Put a 1' overhang on and installed vented aluminum soffiting all around. At the ridge I put what Menards calls Ridge-O-Lators (spelling?)(4 of them). They are 10' or 12' ridge vents that stand about 6"-8" high. This apparently allows good air flow and I have had no condensation whatever. I do intend to install a ceiling with 6" fiberglass insulattion just as soon as I am done with this cotton pickin house and assuming there will be some money in the budget for it. My dad had a Walters building (100' x 50') up in Wisconsin that was built the traditional way and I don't recall any condensation in there. No poured floor or venting or insulation. It was fully enclosed when the doors were shut. Don't know why. Good luck whichever way y0u go.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Years ago, I remember one of the warehouse buildings at the lumber yard, would rain inside mid to late fall, maybe once or twice a year, always wondered what caused it, temperatures were in the 40's I think. However it works, and what caused it, condensation definitely builds up, droplets get bigger and eventually it rains in there.

 

[Del50]

I have two pole buildings with 1/2 in. Celotex under the tin. Works great. Would not think of building another with out Celotex or sheet foam under the tin. And I don"t want a shingle roof.

 

[Anonymous-0]

The size of your Bldg.[saw it on another post] it won't break your budget to install some Alum.Foil Faced Foam Ins. Panels direct to the Purlins before the Roof Steel. HD or Lowes sells it in 4'X8' panels.

 

[john *.?-!.* cub owner]

I just built a 32x40 metal building, and used the Solar Wrap in it, all the way around. It is a ventilated foil, thin layer of fiberglass, and a white plastic film that goes to the inside. cost $1220 to do the roof and all the walls (10 foot side walls). it really makes a difference in the temps, and no condensation.

 

[Anonymous-0]

I sure will never build another metal building that does not have either full roof sheathing and tarpaper under the metal or else the vapor barrier/thin fiberglass insulation under the metal.

It is possible to fix the condensation problem after the building is complete, but it is cheaper and a whole lot less hassle to take care of it before you ever screw down your sheet metal.

If you don't do something, I bet you will regret that decision. Good luck!

 

[CJ3b_jeep]

I decided to go with the ply-foil product in ply-white. I can get it at on of my favorite lumber yards for about $100 roll. Only need two rolls.