Is this engine ready for rings?

[rustred]

There is no black paint on any Farmall from the factory. The manifolds are sprayed in red , then the exhaust one burns the paint off and that’s it. Rims were not painted either. They were galvanized. But ih silver is what I use on them. The starters and generators were black because when they got replaced the rebuilds were black. But people also paint them how they like also.

 

[used red MN]

Factory, all red except the wheels, which are galvanized/silver. Painted generators and starters are replacements. Steering wheel grip.. black. And muffler is not painted. Rear axles not painted either. Common sense not to paint over the serial number plate.

 

[farmalldave]

Factory, all red except the wheels, which are galvanized/silver. Painted generators and starters are replacements. Steering wheel grip.. black. And muffler is not painted. Rear axles not painted either. Common sense not to paint over the serial number plate.

I will tape off the important areas. I'm finding it hard to pick out the paint. Tallmans from this site doesn't have the red in gallons only quarts. And I called Napa they have martin paint but it's $550 gallon. I have heard case ih paint fades and magic paint is not good either. So looks like I'll have to order the quarts which is a little more expensive but at least I'll have my paint. Napa does have a paint that's a pcc135 oh but out of stock and it is $170 gallon kinda expensive. Maybe I'm being to picky.

 

[Jim Becker]

Delco used black for the background color on the starter and generator tags, as did IH on the serial number tag. Otherwise, there was no black paint from the factory. Starters and generators were usually painted black by rebuild shops. That way, the same unit could be sold for use on any color tractor.

IH used the same red paint on the manifold that was on the rest of the tractor. It burned pretty quickly. If you want it to stay more red than burnt, use some high-temp red paint. A layer of high-temp paint under regular paint will not keep it from burning.

 

[farmalldave]

Ok I want to get behind the distributer to clean that area up. If I remove it what do I need to do to not screw up the time or anything else. I only primed the areas I sanded already to keep it from rusting again.

 

[rustred]

Ok I want to get behind the distributer to clean that area up. If I remove it what do I need to do to not screw up the time or anything else. I only primed the areas I sanded already to keep it from rusting again.

It makes no difference. , just pulling out. Then once you are getting it together u need to have number one on top dead centre on compression. Then line up the rotor to number one cap terminal and shove it in. Then with a piece of paper between the points rotating the dist. Counter clockwise you pull out the paper once it will come out and tighten the dist. And you have just timed your engine. Dont need spark ,don’t need a test light Don’t need a battery. Very handy way when doing a rebuild. I do it this way most times. And one more thing.. u can put a couple v marks with a small chizel on the two mating surfaces once it is timed correctly. Makes it easy for future reference. And make sure the points are gapped to .020 before doing the timing thing

 

[Janicholson]

Mark the exact location of the tip of the rotor on the housing with permanent marker. Mark a new location where the distributor is mounted to the drive. When putting it back together make sure that both marks are realigned when in place. Jim

 

[rustred]

Mark the exact location of the tip of the rotor on the housing with permanent marker. Mark a new location where the distributor is mounted to the drive. When putting it back together make sure that both marks are realigned when in place. Jim

Ya if you know it was timed correctly before. Nobody know that. I always confirm. Timing is correct.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Your pistons look like they have some scratches on the sides and the sleeves look like they are shiny. I would probably decide how much I wanted to spend. As the pistons could be reused with new rings and the ridge removed sleeves honed and good to go. If money is not a problem then I would probably do the sleeves rings and piston route. While in there you might just as well put in new bearings. Lok at one end on the back side and you should see if they are STD (standard) or .010 or so on for being the crank turned and keep the bearings in order so you know which ones are which for the size. It may not seem like it matter if you got one that was a bit loose but when you are working with half a thousandths to one and a half thousandths for oil clearance it matters a lot. Could even be the difference of one being so tight and burning out or to loose and hammering out. Same thing for the mains and they can be spun in with them all loosened some and one cap off at a time and pat attention to the position of the caps and they should be numbered also. with the numbers all on the same side as when they came apart. After all this was a running engine when you took it apart so it will run when done if done correctly. NO the Bearings are not over sized they are undersized if marked with a number other than STD on them. 0.010 is ten under sized by turning the crank down that much.

 

[rustred]

do you have the farmall running yet?

 

[farmalldave]

I don't have it running yet. I bought iron guard case ih paint for it yesterday. I plan on painting the engine frame after I do more grinding sanding on it tomorrow. I also have to wipe the whole thing down after blowing the cast off with air. Is paint thinner good to use to clean the cast before primer? I also have to remove the front pedestal and tires. Plan is to prime paint the frame and engine. After that work on rims when done with that put them back on and then roll it back in the shop. After that prob install new wiring harness. Then sheet metal work.

 

[rustred]

i see your going all out. looking good. i remember body shops would wipe down the final prep. with alcohol back when in school for work experience. anything not oily would be good, i would not even be scared to use gas, but just on a rag. paint thinner is good. but i am not a bodyman , . not in the tractor dept. anyhow. even brake clean would be ideal if a person could afford that stuff. myself i would get the engine running before painting, then tear it down for painting.. but that's me.

 

[farmalldave]

i see your going all out. looking good. i remember body shops would wipe down the final prep. with alcohol back when in school for work experience. anything not oily would be good, i would not even be scared to use gas, but just on a rag. paint thinner is good. but i am not a bodyman , . not in the tractor dept. anyhow. even brake clean would be ideal if a person could afford that stuff. myself i would get the engine running before painting, then tear it down for painting.. but that's me.

My dad was wanting me to get it running also but he asked me after i had parts taken off and was jumping the gun to get it ready for paint. The next tractor I'll remember to do that.

 

[farmalldave]

Has any one used case ih iron guard paint before. I hope to put my red on it tomorrow. My question is do I have to put hardner in the paint. The instructions says 1 part reducer 8 parts paint. Does not mention hardner at all. I did some research and it looks like this is a single stage paint so I don't have to put clear coat on it. If I do put hardner in it what's the ratio for the paint hardner and reducer/ thinner. This paint stuff is kinda confusing. The tractor only has the primer on it now from case ih. Also this primer is not sandable so what is the best primer that will go along with my paint with out having crinkle that I can work with on my sheet metal.

Thanks

 

[rustred]

Has any one used case ih iron guard paint before. I hope to put my red on it tomorrow. My question is do I have to put hardner in the paint. The instructions says 1 part reducer 8 parts paint. Does not mention hardner at all. I did some research and it looks like this is a single stage paint so I don't have to put clear coat on it. If I do put hardner in it what's the ratio for the paint hardner and reducer/ thinner. This paint stuff is kinda confusing. The tractor only has the primer on it now from case ih. Also this primer is not sandable so what is the best primer that will go along with my paint with out having crinkle that I can work with on my sheet metal.

Thanks

My nieghbor painted my brothers super wd 9. He used hardener in the ih iron guard paint. I have no idea on the mixing procedure. The hardener gives it a nice shine also. It is a show room paint job also !
Tractor was all taken apart just as u did. It was like a year and a half on that job. Many many hrs of work. Use the ih primer also. Believe it was 3 coats of paint on his tractor. The first coat is just a dust coat. I will see if I can find a pic of the finished job.

 

[farmalldave]

Alright I'm getting close to needing some decals. I will go with maple hunter. My question is do I get the bn decal that says cultivision over the bn or just the bn decal set. Tractor is a 1941 bn.

 

[560Dennis]

Interesting post , thanks for the feedback dave ,viz