Isolator Valve

I use my MF50 for plowing snow in the winter. I have a valve mounted on my right fender that controls the single acting cylinder to pick the plow up. The trouble is that the 3pt picks up when I lift the plow. I am going to add a weight barrel on the 3pt but do not want it to lift and lower everytime I lift and lower the plow for fear of wearing out the 3pt. If I understand correctly an isolator/selector valve would solve these problems? When I mount this under the seat what exactly do I need for hydraulic hoses? Would a supply and return run from the isolator valve to my control valve? Any info would be helpful.
 
Your 3 pt. will most likely still creep down when the oil is diverted for the blade and you'll have to keep lifting it back up unless you put a chain or stay bars to keep it from falling. Dave
 
Hi,
Dave is correct in saying that the 3-pt will creep down even with an isolator valve. The reason for this is that you are reducing the possible leak points to the piston/cylinder.
The plough and 3-pt are on the same circuit so the one which requires the least pressure to move it will respond firstIf your plough is gravity drop and power lift, in theory you should not blow the relief valve at full lift for more than a second or two. If you usd a chain for example to hold the 3-pt up then that moment that the plough reaches full lift will be followed by your counterweight rising in the slack to full lift. As soon as you lower the plough the weight will go down with a bang. It is advisable to have a rigid frame to hold the counterbalance. With an isolator you will need a 3/8 supply pipe from the iso to your plough valve. If it has a return outlet you will need one preferably 1/2" going ideally back to the oil filler plug next to the gear lever. A photo of your existing set up would help.
DavidP, South Wales
 
I am going to try to take some photos tomorrow of the hydraulics to clear some things up. I am debating about putting an independent pump on the front to control the snow plow, but maybe the isolator valve might be an option too. Hope to get some more advice after I post the photos.
 
Hi,
Invariably an independant pump will have a higher output than the Ferguson pump. You could find the snow plough shooting upwards when you don't need that speed. An isolating valve would be far more suitable as it can be used with other rear or front mounted items as well.
DavidP
 
What exactly is involved in installing the isolator valve, simple/difficult? I will take some photos later today and post them so you see the current setup. thanks
 
Here are the photos of the current setup.
a30725.jpg

a30726.jpg

a30727.jpg

a30728.jpg
 
Hello,
Nice photos. With your existing setup you are three quarters of the way there. All you would need is a simple push/pull isolating valve like this one on my 165. You would not need the outer rotary selector. Fitting of the valve is simple. Ensure that there is no pressure in the system.
Remove the two bolts holding the cap and carefully prise the cap upwards SQUARELY until it clears the tube or brings it with it. Fit the tube to the isolating valve with new O rings and PTFE backup washers and carefully lower it back into the housing. Ensure that it is square. When in the correct position you will feel it drop into the chamfer of the hole slightly. Check again that the cap is square and gently push it down the last 1/4 inch or so. Replace the bolts.
Remove the pipe that is attached to the front of the hydraulic cover and fit it to the valve. Plug the cover port. You may need a 3/8 NPT male/male adaptor. Tighten up and you're in business. The return that you have going to the upper part of the hydraulic should be satisfactory as the tractor I assume will be doing most of its work at fairly low engine speed. If there is any indication of the plough control lever 'twitching' at high revs then a larger bore return to the oil filler cap will be required.

DavidP
a30740.jpg
 
Thanks for the great information, I figured I was close, just need to isolate the 3pt from the plow. Where can you find the push/pull selector valve anyways? Is there a model that you know of? thanks again
 
A-VFD1104 Selector Valve print this page

SERVICES LIFT ARMS PLUS 3 EXTERNAL PORTS WITH RETURN GOING BACK TO REAR END. PORTS CAN ONLY BE USED 1 AT A TIME.

• Converts MF hydraulic to external service (valve has BSP thread in pressure ports) Dim A (1)Provides a positive change over from tractor hyd. to external service. Dim B (2)Does away w/ need to fix the tractor lift arm in the lower position when external service is in use. Dim C (3)The 3 point linkage of the tractor can be free for use while the external service remains connected simply by operating the valve. Dim D (4)Services lift arms plus three external ports w/ return going back to rear end. Ports can only be us ed one at a time. • for MF tractor
 
Hello,
Yes, that type is fine.You will need to plug one of the ports securely just in case you select it by accident. I believe that the push/pull type is still available in the UK although many are now the rotary type.
DavidP
 
I assume I need to plug the one that isolates the 3pt hydraulics anyways (when I select this position the plow will be disable and vice versa in the other position) and pipe the aux to my current valve block and leave the return in its currect position above the PTO lever.
 
Actually I have the same problem as you, I just happened to buy a sauder front plow for my MF50, and I was trying to figure out how to lift it, and I was considering adding a front pump, to lift the plow, so I would be able to utilize the 3pt hitch with a rear blade. I came up with the idea of adding an old meyers belt powered plow pump, which has its own reservoir built in. I originally considered a pto pump, but they are very expensive, you need a reservoir for the fluid, and a way to control the lift. You talking a bit of money.

Here is what one looks like if you not familiar with what they look like. http://cnj.craigslist.org/pts/2188351844.html

I hope other members see this and get back to me as well.
 
I also considered the PTO pump, and money was the issue, like you say very expensive. I ended up buying the isolator valve, haven't put it on yet. My concern was picking up the rear weight every time I wanted to lift the plow, which I figured would eventually wear out the 3pt. Are you looking to use the plow and the rear blade in tandem, meaning would you push with the front blade in one area and then drop the blade and backdrag another area? If so the isolator probably wouldn't be your best option as you would be constantly changing the valve position. As far as the Meyers pump I really have no idea, hopefully somebody else can help. Good Luck
 
The plow came with something that uses the 3pt hitch to lift it but I cant figure out how to attach it, and I am in the process of rebuilding the plow as it sat in a farm field for like 20 years -_- but hey it was in good shape and cheap. However what I am considering to do is buying an isolator valve since Ive heard some real horror stories with a front mounted pumps breaking the crankshaft or wearing out the front bearing. So I think what Im gonna do now is to take a steel barrel and filling it with concrete and attaching it to the 3pt hitch for rear weight and traction, then using the 3pt lift it, and chain it up. Afterwords just switching the isolator valve back to the plow and just use it for back dragging, or Ill dig my Ford NAA out to use the back blade.

BTW did you happen to find an isolator valve like the one you posted a picture of because the only one I can find is a UM73001 Selector/Isolator Valve which replaces number TS300?
 
The valve I posted a picture awhile ago was from a site aiproducts.com. Just go to "Hydraulic System Parts" and scroll about 3/4 way down called "selector valve" I actually bought the TS300 3 selector valve in case I want to add a log splitter some day and it was $20-30 cheaper than the picture I posted. Sounds like your going to do exactly what I am with the weight barrel and plow setup exept that I use mine for snow.
 
Its a dozer/snow blade, and that is all I intend on using it for is snow when I'm done restoring the plow, I also have a john deere 790 front end loader, but I would rather use the massey for plowing because its less likely to break, and it cheaper to repair if it does. But thanks I appreciate it. And if you don't mind would you post a picture of how you chained the arms up, because I am unsure how to do it. Thanks
 
I actually haven't put the isolator valve on or the weight barrel yet probably a fall project but I was actually thinking about putting the 3pt down and resting the weight barrel on the draw bar rather than pick it up and chain it, just an idea. Then the plow can be raised and lowered through the isolator valve and auxillary block without affecting the lift arms. That's my plan anyways.
 
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