JD 2010 Gas

Nzak

Member
Moved tractor put chains on, then Sat for a few days had a low battery to charge. Now I can"t get it to move forward or backward. This is a new tractor for me and I do not have a book yet! There is a lever on the floor below the clutch peddle anyone know what this is for? The first lever on the dash is for what? the second and third move the arms for attachment on the back.
 
Hi, The lever under the cluch is the Hydraulic pump engage lever. up is on down is off. you should disengage it to make starting easier.
If it starts but does not move then check your gear linkages.on the 2010 they are sometimes hard to mesh into gear. mine is a diesel.
 
If your trans. set-up is like the 1020,you have two shift levers,the one on the right is low-high-park,up and right should be low,then try shifting the trans, lever,make sure the one on the right is in gear,The lever on the dash is probably the PTO,some had a second lever there.
 
(quoted from post at 08:58:44 11/27/13) If your trans. set-up is like the 1020,you have two shift levers,the one on the right is low-high-park,up and right should be low,then try shifting the trans, lever,make sure the one on the right is in gear,The lever on the dash is probably the PTO,some had a second lever there.

Trans control on a 2010 is nothing like a 1020. 2010 has one trans control lever with syncronizers that can get worn and tricky to shift.
 
(quoted from post at 10:19:38 11/27/13) Is it too late to back out of the deal and get rid of it?

It's never too late to get rid of something. My ex wife can testify to that. Dang she'll probably at my daughters house tomorrow for Thanksgiving dinner. :roll:
 
(quoted from post at 08:19:38 11/27/13) Is it too late to back out of the deal and get rid of it?
I think I like this guy.

Don't put the PTO in gear without the engine running.
The linkage inside the back will break.

The 2010 transmission is a nightmare.
The top shaft is 5ft long and the pinion shaft turns backwards to a NORMAL SyncroRange.
GOOD LUCK
Oh ya the rock shaft and the whole hyd system sucks too.
Like I said before.
 
(quoted from post at 13:02:53 11/27/13) txjim. There is always room at my table for you.

Thanks for the offer but I ain't scared of my ex wife. She had to move back to Texas from Ga(where she took my youngest daughter) because both of my daughters live within 1/4 mile of me. HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO YOU & YOURS b&d.
 
nzak
It's tough to tell exactly whats wrong from your description as to why the tractor will not move. It may be the linkage is to sloppy and not throwing the range changer/shift forks far enough to allow shifting or it could be the main clutch or it could be worn plates / disk in the synchronizer in the transmission. You could try putting in in gear with the engine off and then start it up with the clutch pushed in of course. You can view the entire parts break down at the online JD Parts web site. The other lever on the dash is the remote hdy hook up and the lever below the clutch is the hdy pump disconnect as other have stated. In case you haven't noticed you need a thick skin to ask for help with a 2010 on here... LOL.. although not a great fan of the 2010, I have owned and worked on a couple. So feel free to ask questions and I will try to help..
Jo
 
tractor was advertise as new clutch, new brakes when I purchased it nov.9 I drove It home about a mile with no problems. I put new heater hoses on and hose from carb. to intake. I think the fluid might be bad will work on it Saturday the weather is suppose to be in the high 30"s. Thanks to all that tried to help. I"m a AC and ford owner and got this tractor cheap I thought. So a new toy to mess with. Like it for the cab.
 
About the only thing a 2010 has in common with a 1020 or 2020 is the paint.After all the 2010 problems Deere did get it right the 1020 and 2020.
 
I do not want to misquote B&D, but you better get a manual if you do not know what the levers are for.
 
The hdy fluid has nothing to do with shifting. But if you are going to change it their is a micro screen filter in the transmission located behind the circular plate with three bolts on the right side of the transmission below the foot board. It is washable and very hard to clean. Lots of hot, hot water, soap and compressed air work best. A simple wash with gas don't do it.. the test to tell if it is clean is to stand it on end and pour oil in. If it does not run out freely it can't run in to feed the pump.. You might check with the previous owner about shifting and see if they have a manual for it, you will need one.
 
(quoted from post at 08:23:31 11/28/13) The hdy fluid has nothing to do with shifting.

That statement is correct if no moisture is present in hyd oil during sub freezing temps. If moisture is present oil can affect shifting at or below freezing.
 
Today I tried again to see what going on.
When sitting in the cab the left wheel wants to move but the right is not. Could it be a brake is hanging up. I tried different gears and reverse trying to rock it to see it I could get it loose but no luck. Shifting seems fine.
 
My guess is you have a problem with one of the pinion gears(parts keys # 2 & 3) in the differential. Shaft(parts key #13) probably has come loose. Try stepping on one brake pedal or the other and see if tractor will try to move.
mvphoto1292.gif
 
This isn't sounding to good..the brake can be checked by removing the cover where the brake rod enters the housing as shown in the attached picture. This is the left side shown but right is the same configuration. But to get to the differential you need to pull the rock shaft cover off as also shown in the picture. The cab complicates things, I do not know if you can pull the rock shaft with it on, maybe TX Jim can tell you.. one thing I know for sure is their is a hdy pipe that feeds the rock shaft that HAS to be disconnected BEFORE removing the rock shaft. It's shown in the other picture, O ring with two bolt holes.. Rather than continuing to try to move the tractor with the engine I would suggest that you jack up the right side of the tractor and rotate the wheel by hand. You really need the manual..for step by step directions..
a136628.jpg

a136629.jpg
 
That I can remember, I've never seen a JD 2010 with a cab. Is it an industrial model?

Please post a picture of your tractor when you have time!
 
Jim
Thank's for the reply, probably not much call for cab's in TX, but up here in the frozen north east they are a bonus. The next tractor I buy will have one, you can bet on that.
Jo
 
(quoted from post at 08:21:23 11/29/13) Jim
Thank's for the reply, probably not much call for cab's in TX, but up here in the frozen north east they are a bonus.
Jo

Oh yes there are a lot of tractors with cabs in Tx but not for the cold but the HEAT(90 + degrees + humidity). I even own several cab tractors.
 
Thanks to all.
Grease some fitting today. Started it up and the tractor moved. drove around put it in reverse and drive everything is fine. Today was warmer so I'm thing the fluid has water in it so I will change it tomorrow. So what the best fluid to use.
 
Be sure to change the fluid in each side of the final drives or at least pull the drain plug to see if they have water in them, they are independent of the transmission housing.
 
to empty the final drive do you have to remove the final drive pan on each side right and left.
I removed 2 plugs on bottom and the three bolts to cover where filter screen is and have it in the house in hot water with dawn soap!
I have a cab so is the filler plug on the right side while sitting in the tractor. And for the final drive it"s the plug in the back.
all that came out of tractor was close to 7 gallons of fluid. I seen that this tractor hold 8 gallons so I wood like to get it all out and replace with new.
 

Tractor hyd oil capacities are normally quoted on a totally dry hyd system. When changing hyd oil on tractor that's had fluid circulated through it's hyd system it's difficult to get 100% of the old fluid out.
 
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