JD 3020

[Chesterton angelo]

Hello. There is a gas 3020 for sale down the road from me. I could possibly get it dirt cheap. The owner inherited the tractor with the property and knows nothing about it. I went and looked at it. I threw a battery on it, to try and get it to turn over with no luck. I have seen different posts as if this is negative or positive ground. I originally thought negative ground. I never checked the coil to points to confirm this. Also were the diesels 24 volts? And gas just 12 volts? Is there something I am missing to get it to turn over? Any tips or info on this as I have never messed with a 3020 before. Thanks in advance.

 

[Paul_IN]

The 1964-1968 (hydraulic controls on left side of dash) were positive ground when new. They had a generator for charging. The 1969 side console models introduced alternator charging and are negative ground. Many generators have been replaced with alternators over the years. All gas tractors are 12V. The 64-68 diesel tractors were originally 24V but again many have now been changed to 12V.
I don’t think battery polarity matters for starter function but needs to match the charging system. The ignition polarity should be matched to battery connection for best point life.
All the 64-68 ones I’ve been around used key switch for ignition and push button start. The 69 and newer used key switch to start.
You will need to do some troubleshooting to find cause of no start. Did the starter solenoid give any hint of a ‘click’ when you tried to crank the engine?

 

[ss55]

Hello. There is a gas 3020 for sale down the road from me. I could possibly get it dirt cheap. The owner inherited the tractor with the property and knows nothing about it. I went and looked at it. I threw a battery on it, to try and get it to turn over with no luck. I have seen different posts as if this is negative or positive ground. I originally thought negative ground. I never checked the coil to points to confirm this. Also were the diesels 24 volts? And gas just 12 volts? Is there something I am missing to get it to turn over? Any tips or info on this as I have never messed with a 3020 before. Thanks in advance.

Buy it as a non-running tractor and only fix it after you get it home. If you get it running the price could easily double or no longer be for sale. Plan to haul the tractor home as improperly towing those tractors can cause expensive transmission damage.

Operators manuals also I and T brand service manuals (better than nothing) are cheap.

 

[wore out]

Buy it as a non-running tractor and only fix it after you get it home. If you get it running the price could easily double or no longer be for sale. Plan to haul the tractor home as improperly towing those tractors can cause expensive transmission damage.

Operators manuals also I and T brand service manuals (better than nothing) are cheap.

"Buy it as a non-running tractor and only fix it after you get it home."

ABSOLUTELY!

 

[Chesterton angelo]

That was my plan , but I didn't want to buy it if the engine was frozen up. I'm gonna go back and look at it and see if I can get the motor to spend freely by hand, Or hook up the battery directly to the starter to get it to spin.

 

[used red MN]

Should be able to get a bar like a crow bar or large screwdriver into the hydraulic pump drive off the front of the crankshaft to see if it will rotate.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Or take the timing cover off right rear bell housing 2 little screws rotate with prybar on flywheel teeth you will be pulling up on the bar counter clockwise rotation if you are looking at the front pulley from the front. WHEN YOU GET TO TRYING IT AT HOME, A lot of the old ones have been converted to negative ground and will have an alternator too look at the battery when you are there next and jumping it should have one on the left side under the plate your left foot sits on. That ground cable at left battery is often no good too weather it’s the 12 or 24 12 is just a real cable instead of a little wire. It’s almost worth it to buy the 12 dollar cable and take it with you after the check is written...3/8 battery terminal eyelet parts man can crimp on while you are there and bring 1 of each battery terminal. So many of these tractors are in some state of limbo between conversions and original it’s hard to say. I just finished a 1964 oil bath air cleaner that had key switch no push button 12 volt conversion with ignitor that was fairly complete except it didn’t have b side power had no where to go on the lights with the old switch there weren’t enough terminals. I always find it interesting to see how it’s wired a quick google search will find you a colorized conversion diagram on how I would set it up to make your life easy the only real difference on your 3020 would be grounds. generator positive alternator negative if you have an ignitor kit it needs to also be positive or negative ground so if you do convert it and what that you will need to figure the extra 150 for the ignitor kit. Cleaning some points if it still has them and the neutral start switch on right side of transmission if you sit on the ground it’s eye level behind the diff lock to brake pedal bar if it has one would be other reasons it won’t turn over. it will still click slightly I can barely hear but not do a full starter chatter.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

one other thing if it’s a powershift clutch pedal has to be down on later ones to crank and it has another no start switch there on the pedal. My 500b that’s not the case so that did surprise me the first time I saw one. And I should also probably say they are my favorite tractor hands down I’d drag it home wether it turns over or not. Fairly easy to work on them on the cheap side for what they are a little more fuel friendly than the 4020 and has a real hydraulic pump. Heavy enough to handle a loader a bit tall is the only thing your shed will need to accommodate it. No electronics parts are available. I’d be a bit more worried dragging it home on the no start condition of transmission wise as if you do it yourself it will take some time but price it accordingly and you would be surprised at least around here halves of tractors are available for not much money if you truly have a catastrophe. We had a broken clutch housing the other day. 1500 bucks gets you a whole rear end of the tractor clutch housing back. Good luck!

 

[8850dave]

I went to look at a JD 500C backhoe which sat in an old corn crib for 8 years without running, I looked at it and returned with new batteries and and a new fuel filter and a small remote tank and ran new fuel into the filter and to my surprise it started right up and thankfully we had agreed to a price before it ran so easily but I felt kinda bad but drove it on my trailer and it was mine.

 

[tim s]

Hello. There is a gas 3020 for sale down the road from me. I could possibly get it dirt cheap. The owner inherited the tractor with the property and knows nothing about it. I went and looked at it. I threw a battery on it, to try and get it to turn over with no luck. I have seen different posts as if this is negative or positive ground. I originally thought negative ground. I never checked the coil to points to confirm this. Also were the diesels 24 volts? And gas just 12 volts? Is there something I am missing to get it to turn over? Any tips or info on this as I have never messed with a 3020 before. Thanks in advance.

Walk away from it,, there are many things that are unavailable for 3020 engines...

 

[Fixingfarmer]

What have you found that’s not available engine wise? I’ve found some things chassis wise I have to go to the junk man for but engine side I haven’t had a problem they are just more expensive than I like

 

[tim s]

If you would need a engine block for one thing and I just searched all over to find a good crankshaft balancer block..I just completed a 1969 3020 diesel O/H,,needed a balancer $950,,,it had the little CB injector pump that was worn out,,found a new DB pump $1850..new injector lines from Deere $275 each,,I am going to shy away from 3020 engine work..They are cute little tractors,, but ....

 

[Tx Jim]

Tim
Next 3020 that needs an engine block just consider installing a 239 or 276 cid engine similar to this kit JD offered yrs ago.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

It sounds like they were available just expensive and possibly used. Most wouldn’t need a new injection pump and balancers at the same time but I will admit you are correct it’s 3 to 4000 every time I touch one but when they are done they have a nice tractor that will last a long time. Tx Jim has a very good suggestion and I did jump the scrap guy while I was grabbing my lift arm this morning he thinks he has 3 complete tractors with 2 with transmission problems 1 in pieces so you can find what you need at least in Iowa

 

[Tx Jim]

Fixingfarmer
Main problems with installing a utility tractor engine in a rowcrop tractor is the need for a special flywheel housing, hyd pump support bracket & modified side frames.

 

[tim s]

Fixingfarmer
Main problems with installing a utility tractor engine in a rowcrop tractor is the need for a special flywheel housing, hyd pump support bracket & modified side frames.

Yes,,,,,It's really not cost effective,,a project maybe,,

 

[Chesterton angelo]

Well the good thing is the one I am looking at is gas anyways. No worries about injector pumps and lines ect.

 

[SHALER]

I hate to see the direction of good mechanics like Tim S considering turning down 3020 engine work. Everyone has their own personal "dealer parts prices that are out of this world" horror story. . Mine is like Tim S references- last summer I found out I had I leaking #1 cylinder injector line on my 3010 diesel. I tried soldering/brazing once I found out the cost would be $275 for basically a foot long piece of bent steel tubing with simple fittings on each end. the soldering project was unsuccessful and I had to bite it and write a check to mother deere for $275. there were some lines on Ebay used and I did not think they were worth the risk and were not cheap either. Its getting tougher and tougher to keep these old girls going.

 

[620 John]

Well the good thing is the one I am looking at is gas anyways. No worries about injector pumps and lines ect.

It can be hit or miss on a gas. A lot of people have issues getting them to run right. We've had good luck with our '70 3020 though. However it's very tired and will need an overhaul. 4 years ago I priced a Reliance piston and sleeve kit and at that time it was around $3000. That's just for pistons and sleeves. Keep in mind ours is a 241 engine. The older 227 engine seems to have more parts available for not as much $$ as the 241. But that was 4 years ago so things might have changed since then.

 

[Tx Jim]

620 John
A&I 4.25'' bore piston/liners/rings for gasoline part # A-SK243 are $300.96 per cylinder What bore is a 241 cid engine because I don't see it listed for a 3020 gasoline. Yesterdays tractors offers a kit also.