JD 350B Clutch

[Trap4570]

My clutch is releasing at the top of the pedal travel. Is this something that can be adjusted out? I've heard that some B models have a fluid clutch and very expensive to repair.

 

[JDemaris]

350B came with . . . either a hydraulic reverser, or a standard dry clutch drive. Either one was coupled to a sliding-gear transmission. Same for all the 350s and 1010s before them, except when the C came out with wet steering clutches, it HAD to have the reverser, since it supplied the hydrualic power for the steering clutches.

Seems you'd better figure out what you have, before trying to fix anything.

 

[Trap4570]

Yes it does have a reverser. I pulled the floor plates and the clutch arm goes to a control valve body. Cold, it does fine, but warm it slips a little. I shut it down when it started slipping. I found two towers that are dipsticks. The one just off center and forward is showing below add. The one under the seat is over full and milky. I thought I might change the filter and fluids to see if that will correct the problem first. I am assuming that the filter is a plate with four bolts on the right lower of the first gear box. Has a bump in the center. I bought the loader a week ago and it had been sitting for 2 years. I changed the engine oil and filters and hyd. system fluid and filter. What kind of fluid should I use for the boxes and should I do anything before running it again.

 

[Anonymous-0]

the filler pipe in the right center of floorboard is for the reverser...it uses the good grade of hydraulic fluid...the spec number escapes me but its not the universal tractor hyd fluid most folks use in the blade hydraulics.

not positive but i think the filler you found under seat is for the transmission gearbox...milky is bad...change it...my shop manual doesnt show oil spec's for either...i'm running 140 hypoid in trans.

 

[JDemaris]

The dipstick closest to the front is for the reverser. The filter IS where you mentioned. You pull the cap, and all the oil comes out (about 3 gallons). Filter is paper and often falls apart.

Oil is any good combo trans & hydraulic equivalent to Deere spec 303 or Hyguard.

A filter is not going to be your problem. Best case - your clutch pedal is not coming all the way back due to a weak spring and/or dirt stuck behind the control valve arm.

To be sure, you need to stick a gauge in an check. When hot, it needs to have 120 PSI minimum to the clutch packs.

Sometimes, if there's internal leakage, you can open up the rate-of-shift screw and make it work better, Down underneath, hidden by a pipe plug. Basically like a carburetor jet and takes a flat-blade screwdriver. Turn it out (counter-clockwise) to increase.

When it's right, if you run the machine full throttle in 2nd gear, you can shift from forward to reverse, or back - without touching the clutch pedal and you get a firm shift that does NOT snap your neck in two.