JD 410 fuel problem back

[Phil Tibbetts]

I regard to my posting in November about the fuel problem. I had the injector pump rebuilt and the tractor ran fine when I reinstalled it. I don't use this tractor that often but yesterday I was using it to push back some snow and it quit again. It starts up fine and runs good until I have ran it for a while, then it slowly dies out and quits. Sometimes it will start up and run for a short time before it quits again. Other times I need to let it set for 15 -30 minutes before it will start..When I put it away yesterday it started to die so I advanced the throttle to full and it would only turn up to about 1700 RPM and ran for about 30 seconds then died. It usually dies slowly when this happens but sometimes it just quits like you shut it off. Any one got a clue to the problem? Thanks in advance.

 

[gtx1967jewison]

take the pump back & shove it up the rebuilders %@#$! the governors shelling out & needs gone through again.

 

[Bob]

Is it cold where you are... could the fuel be gelling up?

 

[Jake Winn]

It may not be the injection pump at all. It may be the problem that caused the pump failure in the first place.

I would start at the tank. There could be debris floating in the tank that is causing the outlet to become plugged/partially plugged. There could be a restriction in the fuel lines somewhere. The transfer pump on the block could be weak as well. The fuel filter could be plugged as well.

Before you mess with the injection pump, service the whole system before it.

 

[gtx1967jewison]

you guys are both possibly correct. I may have jumped the gun. but a possibility & hopefully not the case.

 

[Phil Tibbetts]

There is ample fuel to the injector pump, new filters, new lift pump, clean fuel tank and fuel, plenty fuel to the injectors. This problem is present warm weather or cold. As to the rebuilder, I have used him several times without any problems. I will talk to him about the governor. I just want to be able to use this without worrying about it quitting when I am on the road.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Your return line could be clogged or there is a check ball where the line connects to the pump check that. I take or bust the glass ball in the fitting that screws into the pump that cured my problem more than a few times. THE NEW TYPE FUELS!!!

 

[S.Crum]

Had about the same problems with my 310-A a couple years ago. Posted here about it and got answers ranging from fuel filters to the moon not being properly aligned with Venus. One day I was running the hoe and reached to the key switch to shut it down. When I touched the key the engine started dying out and running goofy. I jiggled the key and it corrected. So I fiddle with the switch more and the engine would run good and run lousy and sometimes just stop.
I didn't have time to monkey around with a volt meter. I just went down to the Deere dealer and got a new switch and haven't had a problem since. A diesel mechanic friend said the old switch was probably corroded inside and not always putting full voltage to the fuel control valve. Made sense to me.

 

[Phil Tibbetts]

That has been checked too clean as a whistle and functioning properly.

 

[Phil Tibbetts]

Now this sounds like a new idea. I was thinking about the switch but could not figure out how it could cause that problem, now that you explain it I can see how it could happen. The thought crossed my mind that the voltage could be dropping. I will hot wire a switch into a separate line to check it out. Thanks for a new idea.

 

[Phil Tibbetts]

By the way what was wrong with the old fashioned pull to stop rod that worked fine on diesel engines for years? I never had one of them short out!

 

[S.Crum]

Moron kid brother would bend them over sideways on the 4010s when he din't push them back in after shutdown, and catch his pantleg on them. That's what happened to them!

 

[Phil Tibbetts]

Well I guess there has never been a shortage of morons!

 

[JDemaris]

If the pump crapped out earlier, there will be chunks of plastic stuck the return-fuel lines and Ts on top of the injectors. Whenever a pump is fixed, they all need to be taken apart and cleared. Otherwise, it will keep starting - and dying regardless if the pump was fixed.

 

[JDemaris]

Yeah, and it pretty rare for an electric shut-off to short out also. I have seen plenty of "pull rod" shut-offs stop working when the little C-clip falls off inside the pump.

 

[JDemaris]

You are saying you had every TEE apart and checkd inside?

A very simple test. Stick a drain pan under the pump, and then unhook the return line from the pump, AND remove the housing-regulator-valve that is threaded into the pump top cover. Then start the engine and let some fuel drip on the ground. If it now runs fine, you've got your answer.

 

[JDemaris]

Voltage has to drop awfully low for the electric solenoid to collpase. The 12 volt solenoids work down to around 4-5 volts. Those that do seem to be "shorted" are rarely really bad. The solenoid positive stud passes through the pump top cover with a small rubber insulator on it. When that 10 cent insulator rots out, the solenoid can "short" to ground.

That all being said, when a solenoid gives trouble, it's usually and "off" and "on" sort of thing. Not a situation where the engine starts well, then slowly loses power and finally quits.

My Deer 300B quit last summer a mile from home. I tore the injection pump off right there. Took it home, pulled it apart and fixed it. Upgraded it to and eliminated that plastic ring. Went back, put it on, and my backhoe made it half way home and started quitting again. I'd wait a few minutes, then restart, drive a bit, until it again lost power and finally quit. I finally pulled the line and return fitting off the pump and drove the rest of the way home, leaking fuel on the ground - with a fire extinguisher on my lap. When I got back to my shop, and pulled it apart, I found little chunks of plastic stuck in all three return-fuel Ts on top of the injectors. Once I cleaned it out, it's runs great.

 

[Moline Man G1]

Could it be a cap or tank not venting properly?

 

[Phil Tibbetts]

Well I tried the switch trick but wiggling it made no difference. Voltage remains above 13 volts, so I guess when the weather warms up I will try taking the return lines to the tank off and see if there is any blockage in them. It seems to me if there was a blockage it would be worse when cold as the fuel would be thicker, but it seems to run fine until it has warmed up.