mkentcomeaux

New User
Power shift slips in 1 through 4, clutches were changed but started slipping again,R & R front pump, shifter valve was rebuilt, also changed pump behind flywheel.
would type of oil being used have any affect on this.(using aftermarket hydraulic oil)
will we have to spit it in 3 again.
 
How long since the clutches have been changed? I have seen in years past where some oils use a chemical that disolves the glue that bonds the facings to the steel plates. I am more likley to suspect that there is a torn gasket of damaged o-ring, sealing ring that causes a drop in pressure in a particular clutch pack. Good luck.
 
It has been about 5 years since they were changed.
It"s kind of weird the way it slips, when you pass through a small ditch or rut(when the tractor shakes around) is when it stops pulling, then starts pulling again.
Thanks
 
It has been about 5 years since they were changed.
It"s kind of weird the way it slips, when you pass through a small ditch or rut(when the tractor shakes around) is when it stops pulling, then starts pulling again.
Thanks
 
Not at all, dad plowed with it for about 2 weeks pulling a 12 AC plow in 5th gear and he never had a problem.
Where do you think we should start?
 
If I had it in our shop diagnosing, I first would check in the tm to determine the common clutch element in those affected gears and then do a pressure check to see if it is a pressure probelm. I'm thinking maybe c1 clutch pack is the common one but I don't have the tm handy. However, the odd thing is that it quits then starts again. With it occuring when going through a ditch or rough spot I'm wondering if you should maybe check your cab mounts, If they are loose where the cab can move some it may be moving the shift linkage enough to partially shift the valve causing a drop in system pressure to the clutch elements. I have seen that happen before. Good luck.
 
This is my thought also, if it don't slip in a steady pattern it may not show up on a pressure check, but the test should be run any way, you will need the multi gauge test set to do it,,also I'm wondering about the dry clutch in the fly wheel it could come and go with a 'jerk' motion.
 
I also thought about the torsional dampner but if that was the culprit it would slip more in the higher gears.
 
Yes thats a good thought but I was wondering about a shake or jar effect makeing it let go for a moment, thats the part I can't make sense out of, he stated that crossing a ditch or bump seemed to make it slip, I wonder if he can make it stall in high gear with the brakes ?
 
After checking further w/dad, it slips in 3rd, 4th, & 7th.
I was wrong about it slipping just on rough terrain.
i believe that is the clutch pack in the rear, does the tractor have to split in 3 again?
What all would need to be replaced with it acting as it is?
 
After checking further w/dad, it slips in 3rd, 4th, & 7th.
I was wrong about it slipping just on rough terrain.
i believe that is the clutch pack in the rear, does the tractor have to split in 3 again?
What all would need to be replaced with it acting as it is?
 
After checking further w/dad, it slips in 3rd, 4th, & 7th.
I was wrong about it slipping just on rough terrain.
i believe that is the clutch pack in the rear, does the tractor have to split in 3 again?
What all would need to be replaced with it acting as it is?
 
After checking further w/dad, it slips in 3rd, 4th, & 7th.
I was wrong about it slipping just on rough terrain.
i believe that is the clutch pack in the rear, does the tractor have to split in 3 again?
What all would need to be replaced with it acting as it is?
 
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