JD 55 ABH plow

[crsutton81]

When transporting this plow down the road, it tends to have the tail wheel violently shimmy to the point that the plow will unhook itself from the tractor if there is much speed involved. Has anyone experienced this or come up with a solution to curb the problem ? There is a plow day held locally every fall that we would drive this equipment to if we could quickly and safely get it there.

 

[Charlie M]

I've never seen a trailer plow that wouldn't do that at higher speed. I've seen newer models with a bolt that locks the tail wheel so it can't wobble. I don't have a fix for the problem on a plow that doesn't have that feature.

 

[BlaineM]

That feature should be on that plow. Both of my JD 55 ABH plows have it.

 

[Rich'sToys]

Plow looks great! Nice job of painting it!

 

[DeltaRed]

Can you pin or otherwise secure it from comming unhooked?Maybe change hitch type? Use a safety chain to catch it if it does come unhooked.Can the tail wheel be secured?

 

[crsutton81]

 

[crsutton81]

Sorry Delta, I hit the wrong button uploading pictures. Anyway, this is the hitch on the plow. We are not sure if it is the correct one or not, but it has been on here for a while apparently. Grayson used this plow for the 2023 growing season after he had cleaned it up and I painted it for him. I could never find a pin hole to lock the tail wheel straight, nor find a good way to makeshift tie it still in a straight line.

 

[crsutton81]

Thank you. I'm definitely not a
professional painter ! I did hate to see
him go to the field with it last year
after we had finished it though.

 

[rustred]

there is a pin for the furrow wheel to hold it straight when it transport. that hitch dont look right something wrong there. betetr check that hitch setup. something not right.

 

[crsutton81]

If it's not too much trouble, would you happen to have a picture of how your plows are set up to accommodate pinning the tail wheel straight ? If nothing else, maybe I could engineer something likewise for this plow based from the picture.

 

[plowman]

HI That is a IH hitch not factory Deere hitch

 

[rustred]

post a pic of the rear tail wheel of the plow, cant see a thing from that picture. plus if your traveling more that 7 mph with it your going to fast to transport it. it will run all over the road. how far are u going?

 

[David from Kansas]

The early 55ABH plows did not have that anti-swing/tail whip feature but it can be put on. I may have an extra one. Can send picture if you want. In the old days, we would take a piece of wood about 12-18 long and 1.5 square and drive it in the opening on the top of the tail wheel swivel. Email is open.

 

[David from Kansas]

crsutton81
If you don't get a reply buy mid-morning Monday, I will get you a picture. email is open.

 

[crsutton81]

Here is the tail wheel assembly. The typical travel distance my son goes is approximately 3 miles one way to get to most of his fields. As far as speed, 4th gear maybe half throttle on a Farmall 300 is about the limit before any chaos begins. We have some paved roads in bad shape around here. A un graded dirt road rides better than asphalt paved roads. I would like for him to be able to go on down the road with it to limit his exposure to traffic.

 

[rustred]

It does not have that set up for the pin. Could probably make it. Will try to get u a pic of the Set up Tommorrow.

 

[crsutton81]

Ok thank you.

 

[crsutton81]

I sent you an email if everything worked as it should.

 

[caterpillar guy]

We have a 6 bottom looks a lot like that and it used to do that till We got tired of replacing that little junk tire. We put a 13 inch car tire spindle on there just welded the spindle from a car on in place of the original and set the tire up straight now solved the whipping problem of the tail wheel. Other choice is to check all the bushings in the cross pins/shafts and the vertical shaft for the tail wheel so they are tight that would eliminate that part of it. We also lengthend those boars and links so the tial wheel could swivel all the way around for backing into corners when plowing headlands or backing into parking spots in the yard. Ours has the cute cast junk little stop pin set up.Probably would work alright on a little plow like a 2-4 bottom. On our 6 bottom the Cat didn't show any mercy when backing up or turning corners with it. Though we didn't take the Cat down the road either. Yes we plowed with a D-4or D-6 Cat for 50 years with the D-4 and about 20 with the D-6. Till I bought my 806 I never had plowed with a wheel tractor till 1978. You could also try mounting a couple front end weights to the side of the tail to hold it down more to reduse the whipping of the tail wheel. Our 6 bottom was pretty light on the tail wheel. The land wheel really needed to have been ahead about one bottom more. I believe that would have helped with that problem on it.

 

[Leroy]

That hitch is exactly what I had and to go down road do not raise to full height, only far enough that the rear bottom clears the road, That tightens up the lock for the wheel, will still do some but not as much as if you raise it full height. I got mine used in 1970 and used till had to quit farming, Best plow I ever had, 3-12 inch hydrolic lift. It had the drawbar shown on yours that is a non release type of hitch that is to be connected to the hand clutch to dissenguage clutch to stop if you hit something. I only had part of it and junked it and put on a release type of hitch designenen for Farmall or Oliver or others. That hitch is designed to stop tractor without unhooking hydrolic lines without a breakaway connection in hoses > could hand sharpen the shares with our forge but was so much harder to do that we took them to a place that could properly sharpen them. Our forge was just too small and we did not have the power hammer to do them. 2.5 inch cylindrr marketed for a B Deere but plowed with a 1951 A. We also had the Yetter coulters on all the plows and it made day and night better on all over the orignal Deere coulters.